"Horseplay" said:
A bundle, no doubt!
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67 GT 390 Fastback
- Thread starter GTchris
- Start date
A bundle, no doubt!
"Horseplay" said:
I just talked to the shop today.
They told me they charge about $35 per foot for work so, I am looking at around $1000.00 for everything.
Just the air cleaner lid alone is $150.00
So, now I am thinking I might look at the reproduction trim. I remember reading that there are just a few of the repro trim parts that do not fit very well so, I might have them just do a few of the pieces for now.
Wow. I figured quite a bit and that is, well, quite a bit. Thanks for sharing."GTchris" said:
"GTchris" said:
From what I recall, the only piece(s) that do not fit right is the L shaped piece(s) where the latch mates. The piece physically fits fine, but one of the mounting holes are in the wrong spot. Once installed it's not visible, or barely visible. It's been 5 years since I did mine. I'll try to take a closer look at it if you want to be sure of the details.
On an aside note, the car looks great. I really like the blue.
After talking to the chrome shop and doing some looking around on the internet (see link in previous post) I decided to just have a few key pieces chromed. I told the shop the parts circled in red I wanted done for sure and the blue circle is an alternate depending on the cost. The small parts in red were really cheap so, I told them to go ahead with all the parts I circled.
I will not need these parts for a while but, I was thinking that it was going to take a while to get them back. The shop called me yesterday. The air cleaner lid is already done and they are saying everything is supposed to be ready to pickup next week. That was quick.
I'll post after pics and the bottom line price I end up paying for these parts.
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DAVER
Member
Nice progress!
This is what I got done on the car today.
I installed the first layer of Raamat on the floor.
The car did not originally come with a floor console but, I picked up one that is in really nice shape at a swap meet a while back. I put it in place while I installed the insulation. The console is for an automatic transmission so, it looks like I am going to have to modify it to accomadate the manual console shift plate.
I picked up a battery box that a red top optima fits in.
I installed the first layer of Raamat on the floor.
The car did not originally come with a floor console but, I picked up one that is in really nice shape at a swap meet a while back. I put it in place while I installed the insulation. The console is for an automatic transmission so, it looks like I am going to have to modify it to accomadate the manual console shift plate.
I picked up a battery box that a red top optima fits in.
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I checked for shorts before I hooked up the battery and the digital meter was bouncing around at 1-3a The first thing I thought of was the heater switch and that ended up being the source that was on.
So, after I turned that off I got a reading of 0 I hooked up the negative cable and nothing sparked or caught in fire. I decided to start checking things out with the hazards (since I would not have to actually operate the ignition switch)
It's showing signs of life.
And they actually flash too!
So, then I got out of the car and went around back to see what is going on with the rear lights (the front turn signals are on back order) The driver side is the only lamp flashing. I swapped out the bulb and still nothing on the passenger side. Next I tried the running lights. The passenger side has running lights, nothing on the driver side. When I depress the brake pedal, brake lights driver, nothing passenger.
This is interesting, the driver side map light does not turn off. The passenger side works like it should. Don't need the car on for it to work and turns off/on just fine.
I found out what was rattling around in my instrument cluster.
The little blue piece of plastic for the hi beam indicator. Sorry about the crappy pic but, you can kinda tell there is not a little blue light.
Any ideas on the electrical issues would be really appreciated, thanks.
So, after I turned that off I got a reading of 0 I hooked up the negative cable and nothing sparked or caught in fire. I decided to start checking things out with the hazards (since I would not have to actually operate the ignition switch)
It's showing signs of life.
And they actually flash too!
So, then I got out of the car and went around back to see what is going on with the rear lights (the front turn signals are on back order) The driver side is the only lamp flashing. I swapped out the bulb and still nothing on the passenger side. Next I tried the running lights. The passenger side has running lights, nothing on the driver side. When I depress the brake pedal, brake lights driver, nothing passenger.
This is interesting, the driver side map light does not turn off. The passenger side works like it should. Don't need the car on for it to work and turns off/on just fine.
I found out what was rattling around in my instrument cluster.
The little blue piece of plastic for the hi beam indicator. Sorry about the crappy pic but, you can kinda tell there is not a little blue light.
Any ideas on the electrical issues would be really appreciated, thanks.
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AzPete
Well-Known Member
You need to get a meter and a wiring schematic (http://hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/wiring.htm) and start tracing where the power stops for the systems that are not working.
Check all the grounds for each light.
Check all the grounds for each light.
I have both already. The thing that is making me scratch my head is all the wiring is new reproduction with the exception to the under dash and instrument cluster. For the most part it's pretty obvious what plugs into what.
It is possible that I might have a bad ground as all the metal is pretty much painted. I did make sure that I used star washers on all the grounds though.
It is possible that I might have a bad ground as all the metal is pretty much painted. I did make sure that I used star washers on all the grounds though.
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
is your turn signal switch new or good? I had problems like you describe (with the rear lights) and it turned out to be the TS switch.
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
I tested mine by bypassing or jumping the brake light switch. I was having weird intermittent problems when the brake lights were on. Sometimes the turn signal wouldn't work on one side or brake light either. Bypassing the bake light switch proved it wasn't that. Other than that I just tested the different circuits in the tail lights harness. That led me to the TS switch.
Maybe post this question in the electrical section so Midlife sees it, he's the resident expert on checking your shorts!
Maybe post this question in the electrical section so Midlife sees it, he's the resident expert on checking your shorts!
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Get out the schematic and start checking it. I have had some TS switches that you could wiggle the lever and get them working in some positions and not others. That told me all I needed to know. There is not much to repair in the switch so if all else is good on the car, it might be time just to replace it.
I purchased a new turn signal switch from http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/
It came with all the pins installed so no need for wire splicing.
That took care of the lighting issue I was having. So, I moved on to the back up light switch. Randy mailed me a connector so that I could make up a lead. Thanks Randy!
I got everything installed and put the car in reverse 3 times, then the back up lights would not not come on after that. So, I crawled back under the car and after the 3 operations the bracket had moved so the switch was not closing all the way.
This is an older pic but, the best I have at the moment that shows where I installed the switch. Has anyone else had this same issue?
I have been looking around but, did not find anything regarding a big block and Hurst shows this switch bracket for pretty much all applications.
It came with all the pins installed so no need for wire splicing.
That took care of the lighting issue I was having. So, I moved on to the back up light switch. Randy mailed me a connector so that I could make up a lead. Thanks Randy!
I got everything installed and put the car in reverse 3 times, then the back up lights would not not come on after that. So, I crawled back under the car and after the 3 operations the bracket had moved so the switch was not closing all the way.
This is an older pic but, the best I have at the moment that shows where I installed the switch. Has anyone else had this same issue?
I have been looking around but, did not find anything regarding a big block and Hurst shows this switch bracket for pretty much all applications.
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gtscode
Active Member
Awesome that you found a switch with the pins installed, I have a tilt column I need to install at some point, if I read correctly you got it installed without problems? It was long enough?
As for the reverse light, it that the special Hurst bracket that they sell for the reverse switch? P/N 2480003? That is the part I have but haven't installed it yet. It looks like a pretty weak method, I would put a star washer or something to keep the bracket from rotating.
As for the reverse light, it that the special Hurst bracket that they sell for the reverse switch? P/N 2480003? That is the part I have but haven't installed it yet. It looks like a pretty weak method, I would put a star washer or something to keep the bracket from rotating.
"GTchris" said:I purchased a new turn signal switch from http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/
It came with all the pins installed so no need for wire splicing.
That took care of the lighting issue I was having. So, I moved on to the back up light switch. Randy mailed me a connector so that I could make up a lead. Thanks Randy!
I got everything installed and put the car in reverse 3 times, then the back up lights would not not come on after that. So, I crawled back under the car and after the 3 operations the bracket had moved so the switch was not closing all the way.
This is an older pic but, the best I have at the moment that shows where I installed the switch. Has anyone else had this same issue?
I have been looking around but, did not find anything regarding a big block and Hurst shows this switch bracket for pretty much all applications.
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It was really easy to install the switch. A lot easier than I remember in a 65.
The bottom tapered collar on the column ( the one Spidey and I are pointing at) has prongs holding it in place, just slide it down and it exposes the top part of the conduit that the wires run though the length of the column.
I didn't even need and pull string or anything, they just slid right down and out. On the connector that is on the existing harness I used a small flat screwdriver to press down the tabs on the pins and pushed them back through the connector. The wiring on the replacement switch was a bit shorter than the stock wiring, it was long enough though to make the connection. I am wondering if the leads were shorter since it was intended for a Cougar.
That Hurst part number is the same switch / bracket that I have. It looks like they indicate that it is the correct part for many applications. The problem with the switch bracket is not that it is rotating out of place, the bracket actually flexes after a few operations. Thus moving it too far away to make the switch operate. I think I might just have to find some thicker material and make a new bracket. I was hoping someone else might have ran into the same problem and had a solution.
The bottom tapered collar on the column ( the one Spidey and I are pointing at) has prongs holding it in place, just slide it down and it exposes the top part of the conduit that the wires run though the length of the column.
I didn't even need and pull string or anything, they just slid right down and out. On the connector that is on the existing harness I used a small flat screwdriver to press down the tabs on the pins and pushed them back through the connector. The wiring on the replacement switch was a bit shorter than the stock wiring, it was long enough though to make the connection. I am wondering if the leads were shorter since it was intended for a Cougar.
That Hurst part number is the same switch / bracket that I have. It looks like they indicate that it is the correct part for many applications. The problem with the switch bracket is not that it is rotating out of place, the bracket actually flexes after a few operations. Thus moving it too far away to make the switch operate. I think I might just have to find some thicker material and make a new bracket. I was hoping someone else might have ran into the same problem and had a solution.
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