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1969 Mach 1 Restoration

Horseplay said:
Don't let the Dynacorn new body route fool you. Those shells need a lot of work to make everything fit correctly and that equates to a whole lot of shop hour cost too. As a newer member here you need to search out some of GPR's (Rusty) older posts/threads to see and learn a bit more about what he and his crew are capable of doing. It's amazing.
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kb3 said:
While I too agree the work they do is simply amazing....I have also questioned how far do you go to save the original car. I would guess that less than 10% of the original car will be left when they are done. Using Dynacorn parts or a Dynacorn body may be a push at this point. Setting the legalities aside.....either way the only truly usable part of the car is the VIN and title. I am glad that there are people out their like Rusty to save these old cars, but my oh my the cost to do so much be astronomical.
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No disrespect was intended. I'm sure the man does excellent work. I never questioned that. By the name on those boxes and the amount of work required from the pictures that car will basically be a Dynacorn Mustang. Most of the parts I bought for mine where Dynacorn. I understand they are some of the best body parts around for classic mustangs. The ones I have installed on my car fit well. I'm sure the Dynacorn body is of similar quality I can't say as I have no first hand experience. What I want to know as kb3 said is, ''how far do you go to save the original car.'' Is it a question of money? Sentimental value? At what point is the car no longer ''the car''? This is a serious question to a professional restorer and a fourm of Mustang Aficionados like myself. The number of posts next to my user ID nothing to do with the question.
 
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I think you have some excellent points and questions. I can't really answer them though. I can say that it would all be subjective to the individual cases. I had the opportunity to purchase my first car several years ago, but it was too far gone and my pockets weren't deep enough to purchase at asking price and have funds for all the needed work, bad thing is a friend was the one selling it he got it in a multicar deal. If I could of it would be sitting in my shop now, but I'm too much of realist. One I have now needs plenty and I hope one day to give it the attention it deserves, it was a gift from my wife.

From infinity and beyond
 
We are in the middle of building a 1967 Dynacorn body for another customer and I hope they have improved their bodies that cost $15,500 when he bought it but are now $17,500. The right door that came with the car we could not use it the fit was so bad. The only parts that fit were the deck lid and rear valance that was tack welded in place and had bare metal behind it. To get the gaps right the doors and hood had to be cut and welded back together. The rear frame rails were welded 1/2" closer together then stock. The brackets for the interior trim panels were in the wrong place. It was not ecoated but sprayed with a primer that flaked off in places. These are just a few of the problems but I must say it is very nice to be working on clean almost rust free parts.
 
I make oil said:
No disrespect was intended. I'm sure the man does excellent work. I never questioned that. By the name on those boxes and the amount of work required from the pictures that car will basically be a Dynacorn Mustang. Most of the parts I bought for mine where Dynacorn. I understand they are some of the best body parts around for classic mustangs. The ones I have installed on my car fit well. I'm sure the Dynacorn body is of similar quality I can't say as I have no first hand experience. What I want to know as kb3 said is, ''how far do you go to save the original car.'' Is it a question of money? Sentimental value? At what point is the car no longer ''the car''? This is a serious question to a professional restorer and a fourm of Mustang Aficionados like myself. The number of posts next to my user ID nothing to do with the question.
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I think you missed the point of my first post entirely. Rusty had commented in a thread a long time ago about all the issues they had with a Dynacorn body. My reference to you being a nwer member simply meant it occurred before your time here so you needed to do a search to find it. I see he has posted again here about issues with another Dynacorn body.

Now as far as your question regarding when do you draw a line on the amount of new metal or money spent trying to restore a car, that is purely subjective to to the people writing the check I think. You stated you had already spent over $6k on body parts for your coupe. I can think of many that would say that is WAY too much for a coupe project. Do you agree? Of course not or you wouldn't be doing it.
For many, myself included, tacking a vin stamping onto a Dynacorn body is not the same as having a restored original car. Even if 3/4 of it is made of replacement panels. And depending upon where you reside, there are also plenty of registration issues to consider between the two.
 
Rusty, thank you for the reply. I'm really looking forward to seeing this car progress.

Horseplay, I absolutely agree with you on the VIN stamp and rebody and thanks to you both for the info on the Dynacorn body. I will not clutter up Rusty's thread with any more of a reply I'll put it on my thread.
 
We removed the cart and now Brian is cutting off the front end



There wasn't a lot holding in on



 
The inner rocker was removed and the inside of the outer rocker panel was epoxy primed





The Thoroughbred floor was mounted on our jig and rolled under the body. Jacks were used on both ends. Once everything was level the body was attached with sheetmetal screws to the new floor.





The old inner wheelhouses were left in place to keep the inner structure together and a reference point to line up the floor.



We were surprised to find no rust in the cowl



The cowl was sanded and epoxy primed



 
Lots of good work there. Amazing how far you have to take these cars down to fix the hidden rust. Thanks for sharing.

Bill
 
The firewall, one piece wheelhouses and quarter panels were sanded and epoxy primed.









 
It takes a lot of plug welds to weld the cowl back on. The frame is also welded to the floor pan frame extensions.







Left side inner torque box screwed in place



Right side inner torque box welded in place



Outer torque box welded in place



 
Great looking work as is usual from y'all.

From Infinity and Beyond

Never argue with a Moron, they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
 
Fender apron to cowl extension welded in place



After Brian grinds the welds



Welding wheelhouse in place



 
Both rockers panels had a little rust at the back.

On the left side Brian cut out the damaged area and started welding in a patch from a new outer rocker.



It was easier to do it in two pieces



The rust wasn't as bad on the right side



 
Brian is welding the trunk dropoffs to the quarter panels and he should be finished welding on the body. Next week it will be coming off the jig and going on a cart.





 
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