Rex66
Member
Hi, I have a '66 coupe with 302 and C4. I have a Mallory Unilite distributor and a Mallory coil. Recently, the car would shut-off randomly after driving for 5-10 minutes, and then it would be hard to get it started again. Usually, we'd just wait an hour or two, and then it would be good for another 5-10 minutes.
I replaced the fuel pump and line from the pump to carb. I'm now using a carter pump with integral filter and a hard line. There was a little debris in the old glass filter but the carb is getting fuel. I needed to replace that old rubber line and glass filter anyway.
Today, I've been testing the electricals in my garage. It started right up and idled for several minutes, then died. I was able to get it started once after that, but right now, it won't start. Battery and starter seem fine - I'm able to crank the engine over easily. I have 12+ volts to the big post on the starter solenoid. On the "I" post, I'm getting 7.0V+ with the key in the "On" position, and ~6.6V at the (+) side of the coil. When I crank it (via a trigger bridging the big posts on the solenoid), it drops to about 6.3V on the "I" post and 5.8-6.0V on the (+) side of the coil. I pulled the coil wire from the distributor and held it with insulated pliers close to some different grounds. I have yet to see a spark while I'm cranking. I figure my coil is bad. I hooked up a Duralast coil that I bought from Autozone yesterday, but I get the same thing - no spark from the coil wire. I'm also getting 1.2V+ from the (-) side of the coil while the key is in the "On" position, and a little higher voltage while cranking - is that acceptable?
I also tried checking for current in the coil wire and the #1 spark plug wire via an inductive timing light - no light while cranking. I tested continuity in my coil-to-distributor wire with a multimeter and it checked out. Maybe it isn't letting enough current pass?
So, it seems that I'm not getting a spark. Is it possible that I have 2 bad coils? Where else should I look?
Thanks in advance! Sorry if this noob is asking stupid questions.
I replaced the fuel pump and line from the pump to carb. I'm now using a carter pump with integral filter and a hard line. There was a little debris in the old glass filter but the carb is getting fuel. I needed to replace that old rubber line and glass filter anyway.
Today, I've been testing the electricals in my garage. It started right up and idled for several minutes, then died. I was able to get it started once after that, but right now, it won't start. Battery and starter seem fine - I'm able to crank the engine over easily. I have 12+ volts to the big post on the starter solenoid. On the "I" post, I'm getting 7.0V+ with the key in the "On" position, and ~6.6V at the (+) side of the coil. When I crank it (via a trigger bridging the big posts on the solenoid), it drops to about 6.3V on the "I" post and 5.8-6.0V on the (+) side of the coil. I pulled the coil wire from the distributor and held it with insulated pliers close to some different grounds. I have yet to see a spark while I'm cranking. I figure my coil is bad. I hooked up a Duralast coil that I bought from Autozone yesterday, but I get the same thing - no spark from the coil wire. I'm also getting 1.2V+ from the (-) side of the coil while the key is in the "On" position, and a little higher voltage while cranking - is that acceptable?
I also tried checking for current in the coil wire and the #1 spark plug wire via an inductive timing light - no light while cranking. I tested continuity in my coil-to-distributor wire with a multimeter and it checked out. Maybe it isn't letting enough current pass?
So, it seems that I'm not getting a spark. Is it possible that I have 2 bad coils? Where else should I look?
Thanks in advance! Sorry if this noob is asking stupid questions.