• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Re-restoration in progress for some vintage racing

Milled down the ends .125" and now it lines up with the head ports perfectly. Re-checked the valve lash too.

a78e710d215ada1b8d6b7d4bb4321ce3.jpg


If only I could have been here to assemble it the first time.

Did have to go find a different set of intake gaskets. The Felpro 1250S3 DO NOT fit 289 heads! It leaves the outside edge of the water ports exposed!

1262's
9f89de43f60041f695404965972de2bc.jpg


Vs 1250S3
8334033b61265756a5a51a50cb5de434.jpg


Vs overlapped
122ec942d7c5dd99bb68b0d44ac3e335.jpg
 
Last edited:
if only you knew someone who could have told you the correct gasket to use in the first place. :rolleyes: Putz
 
Just JB weld the head on. No need to worry about leaks then.

lol Please, nobody actually do that.
 
You actually use the turn signal lever while racing???

I like your dash cluster, but have a few questions. What's the large orange or amber light for? No volt-meter? You actually expect to run at 7500 rpms as your normal racing speed?
 
You actually use the turn signal lever while racing???

I like your dash cluster, but have a few questions. What's the large orange or amber light for? No volt-meter? You actually expect to run at 7500 rpms as your normal racing speed?

Lever is a holdover from street duty. It'll be gone.

Amber/yellow/orange...whatever is for high water temp. Comes on at 225*. Just added that one.

No volt meter.

7500 is max rpms before chip kicks in. The motor was made to spin 8k.
 
Back
Top