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Buying a Radiator

CUAviator

"I wanna go fast..."
I'm in the market for a radiator and wondering if anyone has any favorites or NFWs in terms of vendors or brands? ACP Max Core, Summit Racing, Mustang Depot, Scott Drake, CJ Pony parts (https://www.cjponyparts.com/radiator-3-row-aluminum-5-0-conversion-1965-1966/p/RADA24/)...etc are the ones that seem to pop and I'm getting a little overwhelmed.


I'll be doing the aluminum thing - has anyone noticed a difference between 2 and 3 rows? I don't race, but do set on the gas quite a bit. I've got and 302, AOD, a/c, and electric fan.

Thanks in advance.
 
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I bought the summit brand 2 row for my 66 with a 5.0. I have had it since 2009 and no problems
 
Here we go again. This seems to come up a couple times each year and every time I recommend these guys. Can't be beat for quality or performance. Lots of guys here went this way and can second, third, etc. this opinion. Very nice looking, great welds and top notch cooling.

http://stores.ebay.com/Engineered-Cooling-Products?_dmd=1&_nkw=1965+mustang

Take the time to click on the "see full description" to learn all you could ever want to know about the 2 vs 3 row argument and much more.
 
Here we go again. This seems to come up a couple times each year and every time I recommend these guys. Can't be beat for quality or performance. Lots of guys here went this way and can second, third, etc. this opinion. Very nice looking, great welds and top notch cooling.

http://stores.ebay.com/Engineered-Cooling-Products?_dmd=1&_nkw=1965+mustang

Take the time to click on the "see full description" to learn all you could ever want to know about the 2 vs 3 row argument and much more.
YES, YES, YES.....do what Terry says! I put a 2 row, standard size ECP radiator in the 65 a few years ago and it does an amazing job. If you search on here you will hear me say it again and again. I live in a hot (100F+ during the summer) environment and in stop and go cruising traffic the car never gets hot. It cools our 400Hp motor with zero issues.
 
Here we go again. This seems to come up a couple times each year and every time I recommend these guys. Can't be beat for quality or performance. Lots of guys here went this way and can second, third, etc. this opinion. Very nice looking, great welds and top notch cooling.

http://stores.ebay.com/Engineered-Cooling-Products?_dmd=1&_nkw=1965+mustang

Take the time to click on the "see full description" to learn all you could ever want to know about the 2 vs 3 row argument and much more.

The explanation is good, but unfortunately they don't have radiators to fit all classic mustangs. If you've got a 68-69 with AC then look at an ACP from CJpony. It is two row like the ECP, but is the correct 24" width, has the inlet and outlet on the passenger side, and has 1-1/4" instead of 1" tubes. This looks to be a drop-in replacement, and the tanks are press formed instead of welded like some, so it looks OEM. Give it a thin coat of Eastwood radiator black and it will look original.
 
The explanation is good, but unfortunately they don't have radiators to fit all classic mustangs. If you've got a 68-69 with AC then look at an ACP from CJpony. It is two row like the ECP, but is the correct 24" width, has the inlet and outlet on the passenger side, and has 1-1/4" instead of 1" tubes. This looks to be a drop-in replacement, and the tanks are press formed instead of welded like some, so it looks OEM. Give it a thin coat of Eastwood radiator black and it will look original.

I've got a 65, but how the one I have is currently mounted, a stock 65 size is too narrow, such as the ACP. After a metric butt ton of research, I ended up with a 3 row 67-70 Champion. It seems like it will fit my space the best. As for the 3 vs 2 rows, so painful. I do fully understand the theory - 2 x 1" cores is better than 3 x .63...but none of the 2 core would fit. But I'm assuming the function is based off cooling area as well, i.e. 3 x .63 is better than 2 x .75.??
 
I suspect you will be fine with the chosen radiator but now curious as to why a stock sized unit wouldn't fit. Did someone cut the front support opening wider? As the later piece is bigger (wider) it offers increased cooling area regardless of row count and width. So it the opening has been increased to allow airflow across the full width it will increase cooling function. Another very important aspect of all this is the design and fitment of a fan shroud. Without a good shroud the radiator and fan cannot do their job as intended.
 
I have been using a 3 row CHAMPION for the last 3 years with NO PROBLEMS. It is a 3 row 1967 cooling a 331 in a 1965 FB. Mid 90's are common for Alabama summers. I have a flex fan too.
 
I suspect you will be fine with the chosen radiator but now curious as to why a stock sized unit wouldn't fit. Did someone cut the front support opening wider? As the later piece is bigger (wider) it offers increased cooling area regardless of row count and width. So it the opening has been increased to allow airflow across the full width it will increase cooling function. Another very important aspect of all this is the design and fitment of a fan shroud. Without a good shroud the radiator and fan cannot do their job as intended.
Yes, that is exactly what happened - the mounts are about 21.5" apart. I don't know what the deal with the current radiator is - it's only a 17ish" core, but the mounting braces are pretty wide (out to 21.5").
 
I have been using a 3 row CHAMPION for the last 3 years with NO PROBLEMS. It is a 3 row 1967 cooling a 331 in a 1965 FB. Mid 90's are common for Alabama summers. I have a flex fan too.
Sweet. Nice to hear. As military, I move all over the place - SOCAL, VABeach, Corpus Christi, Pensacola/Tampa. Guess what those all have in common besides heat. Traffic that suuuucks.
 
quasi new topic, but not really. While i wait for the new radiator, I'm planning to use some K-Seal for the old, leaking radiator.

As soon as I pour water into the radiator, it immediately drains out the bottom. Therefore, i turn the engine on, pour it in fast enough so that it maintains "some" volume, then put the cap back on. Almost instantly it pressurizes and stops leaking.

So here's the question for the K-Seal -
1) should i try to pour it into the radiator after I've been pouring in water and try to get the cap on as quick as possible?
2) should i just pour it in right off the bat. Question being, will it just run right out of the radiator like the water
3) OR, should i pour it in the overflow tank and let it try to work itself into the system.

Barring any answers, I'll try #2. I'm going for it tomorrow o_O
 
quasi new topic, but not really. While i wait for the new radiator, I'm planning to use some K-Seal for the old, leaking radiator.

As soon as I pour water into the radiator, it immediately drains out the bottom. Therefore, i turn the engine on, pour it in fast enough so that it maintains "some" volume, then put the cap back on. Almost instantly it pressurizes and stops leaking.

So here's the question for the K-Seal -
1) should i try to pour it into the radiator after I've been pouring in water and try to get the cap on as quick as possible?
2) should i just pour it in right off the bat. Question being, will it just run right out of the radiator like the water
3) OR, should i pour it in the overflow tank and let it try to work itself into the system.

Barring any answers, I'll try #2. I'm going for it tomorrow o_O

In a strange turn of events (this past Saturday) - as I rapidly poured water into my radiator in an attempt to at least have some liquid in there before I poured in the K-seal, the water filled all the way to the max fill...and never drained out. I turned the car on. I turned the car off. Numerous times. No leak. But since I didn't trust it, I syphoned some out and poured in the K-seal. It's been running like a champ, even with A/C on in traffic. Mustangs do the darnedest things.
 
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