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1967 351w transmission Help!! oil pan

67stang

Active Member
Okay i decided I should start a new thread of my small oil leak. If the leak is not coming OUT of the bell housing but coming near the sump and bell housing. Can one assume the leak is probably the oil pan near the main seal but not the main seal?

If so, should I just get a new oil pan seal? Pr would there be any reason to get a new pan? If I was to get a new pan should I get a performance pan if so what kind?



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Can't see the need for a new pan unless the old one is damaged. The engines generally tend to leak after awhile I've found. If your car only drips as little as you mentioned I probably wouldn't bother pulling everything for just a drop here and there. That's a project that snowballs quick.
 
A couple silly questions. First, is it a two piece main seal (older block)? I am guessing yes, if so, then is it a rubber main bearing seal? if so, then has the little pointy pin thing been removed from the main bearing cap?
If it is a newer two piece rubber seal and the pin is still in there (used for robe seals) if can cause premature main bearing seal failure. Ask me how I know...
 
I categorize this one as something to tackle in the off season if I feel so inclined. It's no small job to pull the pan with the engine in the car. Something to do during the long cold winter.
As an aside, when I build a new engine while everything is still clean I put a nice, neat layer of silicone sealer over the whole outside surface from block to pan. Can't hurt and might contain an irritating little leak for a while. Trying to come back later, cleaning things and then trying to seal up with silicone will not get you the same results. Ask me how I know.
Stock style pans are much better at sealing than many aftermarket units. I have a very thick lipped cast aluminum piece on a couple engines and on one the shape around the rear seal is not exactly correct and caused a leak. A stock steel pan will conform much better. But it will also distort easier. DON"T over-torque the bolts.
 
I categorize this one as something to tackle in the off season if I feel so inclined. It's no small job to pull the pan with the engine in the car. Something to do during the long cold winter.
As an aside, when I build a new engine while everything is still clean I put a nice, neat layer of silicone sealer over the whole outside surface from block to pan. Can't hurt and might contain an irritating little leak for a while. Trying to come back later, cleaning things and then trying to seal up with silicone will not get you the same results. Ask me how I know.
Stock style pans are much better at sealing than many aftermarket units. I have a very thick lipped cast aluminum piece on a couple engines and on one the shape around the rear seal is not exactly correct and caused a leak. A stock steel pan will conform much better. But it will also distort easier. DON"T over-torque the bolts.

Shit!! Not sure if this is related I think I have a transmission problem. I always put my car in gear when I park. I got in my car this morning and noticed it was out of gear!! Hmm.

I started my car and left it at idle longer then normal. 3 min or so while I was messing with my phone. Starting driving for about 10 min nothing crazy. As I moved into 5th my Shifter felt like it became discounted!! I could make circles with it!!

I added rpms and then I was able to drop it back in gear. Drove it home and starting working fine again!!
 
What trans are you using, T5?

Could be the shifter bolts are loose, either at the base of the "stick" or the actual shifter that bolts to the trans.
 
I don’t know much about transmissions but could be some type of Synchro or spring because it was really weird that it started working again


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Let’s start with the first issue, I can’t see any way a manual transmission jumps out of gear when parked and left alone. Either you left it out of gear, or someone messed with it.

As for the 5th gear issue, I would be more inclined to agree with the previous post about a loose shifter. It’s easy to lift the boot and check the bolts that mount the shifter to the trans. The syncros would not allow what you described. Bad syncros would just make it hard to shift.

Also, you may want to pull the shift lever out as the stock T-5 comes with a plastic bushing around the shift ball that can fail and cause sloppy shifting. They make aftermarket brass bushings that tighten the feel up dramatically.
 
Let’s start with the first issue, I can’t see any way a manual transmission jumps out of gear when parked and left alone. Either you left it out of gear, or someone messed with it.

As for the 5th gear issue, I would be more inclined to agree with the previous post about a loose shifter. It’s easy to lift the boot and check the bolts that mount the shifter to the trans. The syncros would not allow what you described. Bad syncros would just make it hard to shift.

Also, you may want to pull the shift lever out as the stock T-5 comes with a plastic bushing around the shift ball that can fail and cause sloppy shifting. They make aftermarket brass bushings that tighten the feel up dramatically.

Okay I will take a look and let you guys know.


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Okay I feel really stupid. But thank you guys for telling me to look!! Check this out. This is why it’s best to build your own car from the ground up I guess!



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We've all been in those situations. Scared the shit out of me the first time it happened. Glad to see you got it figured out.
 
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