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Battery relocation

RapidRabbit

Well-Known Member
Donator
I know this has been discussed, but I can't seem to find it.

I'm looking to relocate my battery to the trunk. Anyone have any recommendations?

What kits have you used, boxes, cables etc.....

I'll not looking for race track setup or anything. Just a good setup for a DD.
Something like this?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/161213005727
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I would go for a plastic box instead of alu. Seems safer to me.
And use a heavy duty fuse at the + pole .
 
Why? It's not a simple process so before you take the leap be sure its what you want to do. I presume you want to move it for cosmetic reasons? Cleaning up the bay? Does that mean the starter solenoid moves too? The wiring work gets more complicated at that point. Leaving it up front means you'll have a full time "live" massive cable running the length of the car. Proper fusing is a MUST if you go this route. If you do go for it, use as heavy a cable as you can afford and fit. It needs to be much lower in gauge number than the current battery cables. I used a 1/0 gauge wire, for example. The current draw is huge to begin with during starting but when you have another 16+' of distance the increase in load becomes significant. There is much to consider.

I would suggest you go with an Optima Red Top and use a solid mounted tray for it. Not a fan of plain batteries in a box myself. Lots to think about. You should check out MadElectrical.com as a good source of information. You can give me a call too and I can give you details on how I did it and the parts used.
 
This is why. I want to run my air filter forward and do more of a fresh air intake.

Right now the battery is in the way and the filter is sucking hot air.

I would leave the solenoid up front. Not much of cosmetics issue. My engine is ugly anyway.
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I ran my positive cable from the battery in the right rear side of the trunk over the wheel well, thru the rear quarter below the window and into the rocker (under the door sill you can see it but it is in the rocker) and then fed it thru the kick panel area. Cut a hole and used a grommet in the door hinge post area under the fender and fed it along the underside of the aprons on the tire side so it's not visible. I then ran it back thru the front apron (with a grommet) to the solenoid in the factory location. It is pretty tidy that way. I have a Optima so I don't need a box.
 
I would go for a plastic box instead of alu. Seems safer to me.
And use a heavy duty fuse at the + pole .

yep. i would also use a plastic battery box. i would also use conduit to run the cable through to the front as well to protect the cable from getting damaged. and make sure the conduit is properly secured to the chassis, i suggest about every 8-12 inches.
 
Run the cable inside the car as Craig details. Use correctly sized, quality grommets wherever it has to pass through sheetmetal. And I will repeat I used a very large 1/0 wire in my set-up. You can get it from a variety of welding suppliers. Be sure to get a very fine, high strand count cable. Mine had two layers of sleeves for protection from both chemical and abrasion. It is very flexible which was key to getting it to conform along its path. Expensive but worth it. Where it exited the cabin, I ran it through a fire resistant woven sheathing (has to route near headers) for even more protection as well.
 
In an open area always use a box with a vent to outside. Summit boxes are good for that. Run a 2/0 gauge red cable from front to back. When I did it I also installed a disconnect in case I needed to isolate the battery. If you do a search for trunk battery for a fox body there are tons of pics and diagrams.

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In an open area always use a box with a vent to outside. Summit boxes are good for that. Run a 2/0 gauge red cable from front to back. When I did it I also installed a disconnect in case I needed to isolate the battery. If you do a search for trunk battery for a fox body there are tons of pics and diagrams.
A disconnect is a good idea. I installed one inside the trunk. Couldn't bring myself to put a hole in the taillight panel. Eventually it will have to be done though if/when I go to the dragstrip. Requirement to race with a trunk mounted battery.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I think I'm going to order the plastic box kit from jegs.

I'll have to relocate the spare tire too.

I just bought a new battery this spring so I don't think I'm going to go with an optima.

Or I could just get a shorter air filter and forget the whole thing.

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A disconnect is a good idea. I installed one inside the trunk. Couldn't bring myself to put a hole in the taillight panel. Eventually it will have to be done though if/when I go to the dragstrip. Requirement to race with a trunk mounted battery.
depends on the the track. I run my 67 at Beach Bend and they don't use all the NHRA rules for test and tune on a street car. I have a trunk battery and they do not require a shut off on the rear of the car. They also have a street class on Tuesdays and they don't require all the NHRA rules for that either. They do hold NHRA sanctioned events that require them to follow the NHRA rules but I don't/haven't run any of those. The HRPT just kicked off at Beach Bend as you know in June and they let us run also without NHRA rules. So just sayin' check your local track and events before you drill any holes.
 
Well my car won't see any track time. So I'm not too worried about that. But I might put one inside for anti theft reasons

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depends on the the track. I run my 67 at Beach Bend and they don't use all the NHRA rules for test and tune on a street car. I have a trunk battery and they do not require a shut off on the rear of the car. They also have a street class on Tuesdays and they don't require all the NHRA rules for that either. They do hold NHRA sanctioned events that require them to follow the NHRA rules but I don't/haven't run any of those. The HRPT just kicked off at Beach Bend as you know in June and they let us run also without NHRA rules. So just sayin' check your local track and events before you drill any holes.
Good points. I was reading rules listed on the local track sites and quoting their requirements. Might warrant a call to see if they ever get flexible.
 
I enlarged one of the bezel mounting holes in the tail panel enough to fit the aluminum rod through. When at the track, remove the bezel and attach the rod to the power switch, when done for the night, remove the switch, and put the bezel back on. If I did it again, I'd turn the rod diameter down a bit more, so that the hole doesn't have to be oversized too much. It's just barely covered by the bezel.

Also, if you move the battery to the trunk, you should move the relay too. No need to have such a large unfused wire live all the time when you only need a smaller fused wire running between the alternator and battery. With the really out back, the large wire is only live during the few seconds of engine cranking. Safer in my opinion.
 

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stangg, i sort of agree with you. however if you run the cable through some good conduit from back to front, and clip it in place properly, there is no way to damage the cable as the conduit will protect the cable from possible damage.
 
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