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Battery relocation

Like this?
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You don't need to use a conduit. That just causes issues with fitment, etc. A quality cable will be sufficiently sleeved to provide more than enough protection. I mentioned earlier the cable I used had two distinct layers/materials of covering. Properly routed and secured there is little to no chance of accidental damage. Plus, the inline fuse will cut power should a grounding situation occur. The key is the path you run it and the means to secure it being...pardon the pun, secure. Grommets at any point it passes through a panel.

I suppose if you elected to run the cable under the car (DON"T!) an additional layer of protection might make sense but I myself would run it through something link heater hose.

As a cautionary note, using the metal conduit in that link would likely increase the chance of cable damage if the car were in an accident that stuff can be stretched apart and act as a blade to slice into the wire. You'd be much better to allow the cable to flex freely in such an event but again, the fuse is there to save the day.
 
terry, the nice thing about the conduit i linked to is that it is flexible, and can handle incident like a traffic accident. i wont use any hard conduit, even plastic.
 
terry, the nice thing about the conduit i linked to is that it is flexible, and can handle incident like a traffic accident. i wont use any hard conduit, even plastic.
That stuff is used, at times, in building type electrical work. Most codes limit it's run length to very short distances as it does not afford the same level of protection as say EMT conduit. A nail can be driven through it, for example. If you bend/kink it hard enough it will break open and the edges are sharp and will cut a wire.
**DON'T USE THAT STUFF IN YOUR CAR**
 
I enlarged one of the bezel mounting holes in the tail panel enough to fit the aluminum rod through. When at the track, remove the bezel and attach the rod to the power switch, when done for the night, remove the switch, and put the bezel back on. If I did it again, I'd turn the rod diameter down a bit more, so that the hole doesn't have to be oversized too much. It's just barely covered by the bezel.

Also, if you move the battery to the trunk, you should move the relay too. No need to have such a large unfused wire live all the time when you only need a smaller fused wire running between the alternator and battery. With the really out back, the large wire is only live during the few seconds of engine cranking. Safer in my opinion.
That's a good idea. I will have to look and see if I can go that route too. Thanks!

Also agree on moving the relay to the truck. That's how I did mine. I ran a very nice ($$) 6 ga wire for the alt output return to the trunk. Where exposed, I sleeved it with a fuel line type hose and then a braided covering for way too much protection. It is also fused. Just in case.
 
I'll have to look into relocating the relay. There's a lot of other stuff to move then.

My power top switch, and some relays and fuses for the efi. Also I have a 3g alternator with a mega fuse up front.









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