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1975 F250 Crew Cab

phlegm

Active Member
I've been working on this for a while.
I bought right at the end of August 2015
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And as it looked this morning (4/13/2017)
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I'll save you all the boring pictures, I have a million of them, if you are interested in anything let me know..

This thing has been a complete rebuild so far..
Headlight switch
Bulbs (head/marker/tail/side/dash)
New ignition switch
Alternator
Upgraded the rear tank from 19 gallons to 38 gallons
Fuel pump, for some reason the previous owner was pushing gas through it using a frame mounted electric pump.
I had to cut the old bumpers off because the previous owner welded them to the frame
The rear leaf springs are from a 2009 F-250, I moved the front leaf spring perch forward and flipped the rear shackle using an aftermarket bracket. Extended rear brake line.
Replaced the stock rear upper shock mount with an aftermarket unit.
Installed a full set of KYB Gas-A-Just shocks
New rod/main bearings
New oil pump
New pushrods
External oil re-routing to fix the oil starvation issue on Ford 400's
New pushrods
Edelbrock S.P.2.P. intake manifold with Edelbrock 1406 carb
New radiator, with new hoses
New heater core, with new hoses

IMG_4406_zpsrdhtvj5q.jpg

In Progress upgrades.
Custom built bumpers, both front and rear
Planning phase for side steps (nerf bars)
New cab mount bushings

Near future upgrades
Dome light switches
2004 F-250 front leaf springs (x-code)
2008 F-250 leather interior, front and rear
Patch panels for the box sides and passenger cab corner
1978 hood/fenders/front doors/grill surround/grill insert
B&W Popup 5th wheel hitch
Hooker headers, not sure I want to mess with them though.

I want to get the front leaf springs upgraded, then I'm going to start making it beautiful again.

In this picture I was actually lifting the front end with the engine hoist until the shocks maxed out on up travel, then my 1t cherry picker wouldn't go any higher.
IMG_1002_zpsswu8oonu.jpg

I really like the bumpers I'm making, but then again I am biased.

As bought, huge round tube with 1" flat plate welded hitch/ball combo.
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And now.
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Then
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Now
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The front bumper is almost done, but I can't finalize it until I get the new body bushing installed, I don't want to have any weird gaps or things to run into each other, like the grill surround and the top bumper lip.
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I would like to pull the outer corners up a little bit like I did in the rear, but I won't know if I can until the body is in its final position.
IMG_4724_zpsswmrmivw.jpg

Going forward, I'm going to start replacing the body panels with better ones that I have, the body will go back to the original Dark Green Metallic color that it started life as. I'm going to black out everything else, frame, grill, bumpers, rims, door handles, mirrors, smoke the light lenses, tint the windows as dark as NoDak will let me, I need to dye the seats that I have to black.

Wish list items are to get the gas tank out of the cab, and put another one under the box, then add flap doors for both tanks. Close up the in-cab fuel hole, use that space for storage or audio.

I'd like to get working on the 65 Mustang, but I think next I'll be working on

a '78 Scout II
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I've got a "parts" '79 Scout II to rob essentials from
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Or a 1963.5 Falcon convertible, I've already done some work to this by installing a new gas tank, light switch, and performing a full brake rebuild. The Falcon should be road worthy, ugly, but it should get you from point A to B. But only on nice days that you don't need a top for.

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Cool. I was thinking about you the other day. Wondered where you'd been hiding.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I love your projects but especially the truck! I want one so bad. 73-79 are my favorite body style. I had a 79 F250 4x4 back in the day.
 
I am interested on more information on the oiling modification. I run a 351M in my 1977 F150 and this is the first I am hearing of this modification.

If you covered it in your post on oldfordcrewcabs, I haven't read that thread yet.
 
Thanks guys, I've wanted an old crew cab for a long time, and even though this one needs a ton of work, its the first one I've found that was worth putting the work into.

In regards to the oil mod, from what I've read, Tim Meyer (https://www.tmeyerinc.com/) pioneered the mod and offers kits to install it. He also sells things like grooved cam bearings and lifter restrictor bushings, all designed to increase oil flow where he feels you need it more, at the main bearings.

As for the oil flow redirect, you can also get a kit on eBay that is a hose, not a hard line.
351 C Cleveland CJ 400 M Oil System Modification Kit $59.99 (plus $7.50 shipping)

The oil flow issue I touched on briefly on page 6 over on the OFCC forum
1975 CCSB -- War Hog -- Page 6
oddfordjunkie said:
I do a TON of research on items pertaining to my truck. Pertaining to the 335 series of motor, it was the only motor series where Ford had the oil feed the Cam galley then down to the Crank galley (others feed crank first) this results in the last main/rod set in the motor being starved for oil.

Easy fix. These motors were equipped with 2 oil sender port locations. One at the oil filter housing the other at the rear of the block directly behind the intake manifold. In order to solve the starvation you run an oil feed line to connect these two ports, this effectively eliminates the pressure drop toward the rear of the engine and gives plenty of oil to the rear main/rods.

With spending less than $20 in the plumbing section of the local hardware store you add years to the motor.
I'll have to see if I can find more information and pictures of what this would look like.

Another thread about it, this looks like a lot of extra work.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-low-oil-pressure-cause-and-correction-2.html
Gary Lewis said:
Here's a diagram of the oiling system for the 335 engines. The port the factory uses is in the upper right, while the one you are asking about is in the lower left and closes off the .585" drilled passage. In fact, that is all it is for - to close off where they drilled the passage.

The oil pressure shown there will be dramatically better than that shown at the port used to show oil pressure because it is right off the pump and not after the oil passes through any of the many bearings and lifters. In other words, pressure at the filter tells you if the pump is working and the filter isn't plugged. But pressure at the factory position tells that plus how worn the engine is.
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I only implemented adding the external oil flow path, I didn't want to completely disassemble the block to perform the oil passageway block, or drilling out the other one.

Starting on Page 13, I have pictures of how I did it.
1975 CCSB -- War Hog --Page 13

This is how the rear of the block turned out, a "T" with a new oil pressure sending unit on top, and a 5/16" to 3/8" adapter for the new hard line to attach to.
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The piece of tubing from the back is 30" long, it runs down the driver side of the intake manifold, then a hard 90° to a female-female connector.
IMG_3704_zpsikdkc7df.jpg

Then at the front of the motor is an adapter that goes from the pipe thread in the block to to a tubing thread, and a piece of 12" hard line that runs from there up to meet the tubing from the back.
IMG_3707_zpss3funixl.jpg


And an overall view.
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My updates/repairs on the truck are going to be a little slow for a while, this morning my wife texted me that she thinks I need to start directing my energy toward the AirStream.

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If you guys want to see a bunch of pictures of me scraping silicone, applying new sealant, and cutting holes in aluminum, I can spin up another thread.
 
If you guys want to see a bunch of pictures of me scraping silicone, applying new sealant, and cutting holes in aluminum, I can spin up another thread.
yeah, lets see 'em!

and the oiling mod is also recommended for the 429/460. pretty much the same way.
 
You may want to contact John at Open Tracker Racing Products. He has done some blistering work by dropping a 351 Cleveland in his 65 coupe and has scared the bejesus out of a lot of Camero owners

He is a great guy. I bought a set of Pantera wheels that are magnesium from him I use when I go to the track
 
I've been emailing John Dinkle off and on for years, kicking around ideas for various projects, the last one was for a watts link..
Most of my stuff has off the shelf stock replacement parts, but I do have the templates for making control arm reinforcement plates.
My '68 Mustang has a set of roller spring perches that I built using parts from DazeCars.

The nearest road courses to me are either Brainerd MN or Omaha NE, neither of which have I ever been to.
There's a dragstrip in Sabin, MN I've also never been there.

I really only need reliable daily drivers with a bit of pep..
 
Where do you live? I have lots of family in the Sioux Falls area. My cousin farms on the home place my Mom n Grandfather were born. In Centerville
 
I live just south of Fargo ND, about 200 miles straight North of Sioux Falls on i29, I could be there in about 2.5hrs...
 
I'll be passing through there for Memorial Day weekend on my way to visit friends in Lincoln NE.
I might swing through Rutland SD to look at some Scout II parts. Theres a guy there that has a transmission for a price I'm willing to pay, and he has a ton of other IH related stuff.
 
I am attending an Othus family reunion in July. This year we celebrate Military Service. My Father served on the Bon Homme Richard during the Korean War, my Uncles served in the Navy and one of my Uncles died in a plane crash in Japan before I was born. Hats off to all of them!
 
I will look you up when I reach escape velocity in October

I am planning on retiring in the Sioux Falls area
 
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