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New member from Texas Hill Country

Fair Oaks Mustang

New Member
Just learned about this forum from Kelly_H on Saturday. My mustang was my first car that I restored with my dad in 1988 and 1989. After high school the car sat in storage for about 10 years...got it out of storage after I was in a fender bender with my daily. While I couldn't get it running quick enough to fill the immediate need, working on it has become my passion. My wife says my car is my therapy.

1966 C-code. Original c4 car. Did a T5z swap with a hydraulic clutch. Engine was rebuilt in 1989. Two years ago I installed a new top end including AFR 165's and CompCams XE268H. Few months ago replaced my stealth intake and Edelbrock carb with an RPM Air Gap and Holley XP 600. Running 3.80 Trac-Lock
 

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Looks like a nice car and welcome to the Fix!

If I'm seeing an old "Mason jar" master cylinder (tough to be certain in that one pic) I certainly know what you next project/upgrade needs to be. ;)
 
Welcome to the Fix. Whatever isn't broken, we can fix it! And we do like spending your money for you...tee hee!
 
Welcome to the Fix. Whatever isn't broken, we can fix it! And we do like spending your money for you...tee hee!
Looking at your signature reminds me of a recent project on my car. First let me say that I do not understand electrical and don't seem to be able to grasp any concepts.

When installing a new stereo receiver in my glove box, I was looking for a hot wire to connect to the radio. There was a random wire just hanging there...hooked to nothing. Sure enough, it was hot. Served my need, but looking back, that thing must have been hanging loose for a minimum of 29 years.
 
Ha! You don't know how close you were to having a fire for these last 29 years!
 
Welcome! Thats a nice looking car. Any more mods planned?
Beginning of next summer I plan on doing the Arning drop. Also, my son is an engine builder and we are talking about building a 347 short block at some point next year. He's pushing me to build a 363, but I think I'll already be pushing the limits on my drive train. When I pull the current engine, I want to detail out the engine compartment.
 
My advice is stay 302 small block based and go 347. A well thought out and built 347 will deliver PLENTY of fun on the street. You won't be able to use it all quite frankly. In our old, light cars the tires just light up. Plus, the power it can make pretty much maxes out what a good stock block can handle. Stepping up to a 351 based engine opens the door for more power potential but again, unless a strip car why do you need it? Plus, using a 351 block in a 65/66 presents all kinds of other issues with clearance. Yes it can fit but getting to plugs and header bolts can be adventurous. And an engine is essentially an air pump. More in for more power but it has to get out too. 1 5/8" tube headers are all you can squeeze in which really limits the exhaust the bigger cubes pump out. Hell, a 347 really wants 1 3/4" which simply won't fit with a 351 based engine...unless you remove or trim back your towers.

I got to rambling but I am a H.P junkie myself and for all the reasons listed just built and installed a 347 myself. Pretty sure the 450ish numbers will be more than enough to provide all the fun I desire.
 
My advice is stay 302 small block based and go 347. A well thought out and built 347 will deliver PLENTY of fun on the street. You won't be able to use it all quite frankly. In our old, light cars the tires just light up. Plus, the power it can make pretty much maxes out what a good stock block can handle. Stepping up to a 351 based engine opens the door for more power potential but again, unless a strip car why do you need it? Plus, using a 351 block in a 65/66 presents all kinds of other issues with clearance. Yes it can fit but getting to plugs and header bolts can be adventurous. And an engine is essentially an air pump. More in for more power but it has to get out too. 1 5/8" tube headers are all you can squeeze in which really limits the exhaust the bigger cubes pump out. Hell, a 347 really wants 1 3/4" which simply won't fit with a 351 based engine...unless you remove or trim back your towers.

I got to rambling but I am a H.P junkie myself and for all the reasons listed just built and installed a 347 myself. Pretty sure the 450ish numbers will be more than enough to provide all the fun I desire.
I agree 100% regarding the fun factor with the 347...it would be more then enough. With that said, you can do a 363 with the same 302 based block. My son's plan was to use a Dart block with a big bore and 347 stroke. I don't remember the exact bore and stroke combo, but you can net 363 with a 302 based Dart block.
 
Well aware of the aftermarket block possibilities but it still comes down to how much is enough? Those blocks aren't cheap and depending on the path you choose can require a good amount of machine work to fit the desired end result. Having a son as a builder (and I presume machinist) can save you some costs. In my mind, the aftermarket blocks are for one purpose and that's BIG H.P. via pressure of some form. And that adds up even faster! Coyote with a twin screw at that point. At least for me. :D
 
Well aware of the aftermarket block possibilities but it still comes down to how much is enough? Those blocks aren't cheap and depending on the path you choose can require a good amount of machine work to fit the desired end result. Having a son as a builder (and I presume machinist) can save you some costs. In my mind, the aftermarket blocks are for one purpose and that's BIG H.P. via pressure of some form. And that adds up even faster! Coyote with a twin screw at that point. At least for me. :D
I think we are on the same page. The only way I'll end up with a Dart block is if the employee discount is significant. The shop he works for does nothing but chevy and ford crate engines and all have new dart blocks...and they build a ton of engines. While he can machine a ford block, we would most likely take it to a different machine shop that does them on a regular basis. So I would then need to see what the price difference would be with getting a new Dart block that only needs some honing or a stock block that needs a full machine job. Then decide if the price difference is worth it or not.
 
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