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1 Peice floor pans?

R

rusty1970

Member
Has anyone had any experience installing one of these? I already have full length pans but, have been told by several people that a one peice is the way to go. I was just seeing if there are any pros and cons? That and it is more money too. Also I have never done installed pans before but am recruting a fellow stanger to help. Thanks 70_fastback!!!
 
Alls I can say is that I would have gone for it if I had to do it all over again. I was kind of upset that they came out with the 1 piece just after I finished my floors. I think the big benifit is that all or at least most the welds end up being plug welds so there is less work required since you don't need to fuss with fitment to butt weld and dress the joints. I think the full floor also includes the piece above the rear seat, so if you need to replace that too then just get the one piece. It seems to me a that with a 1 piece, once the area is prepped that it should take less than a day to fit and weld... compared to several to install full length 1/2 floors... I thnk I heard that you install the 1 piece through the winsheild opening so that may also play into your decision.
 
I can't speak for the '70, but I have put one in my '67 convertible and was very happy with the one piece floor. I ordered a convertible floor and found out it had the parking brake ribs that the '65's used. Otherwise it was very close to original and a piece of cake to install. If you can pick up the piece without paying shipping the price to me is well worth it.
 
If you have a swap meet coming up locally, go buy it there. I got mine for $370 compared to the well over $400 + shipping you'll see in the catalogs. It includes the seat risers, rear torque box covers, plugs, and the two brackets(I think) for the emergency brake cables that are welded by the floor extensions.

I haven't installed mine yet, but just looking at it, I feel like I made the righ choice. Plus, when I cut out the original floor, I found rust that I had no idea was lurking in hidden places! I'm really glad I'm replacing the entire thing instead of patching holes.
 
I've got my 69 FB floor cut out at the moment and doing toe pan work. After that I will be fitting my 1 piece pan in. Also a great time to look at the floor supports as well.
 
Bought one today, and the place I got it from will give me some $$$$$ for my full length pans> As for the windshield it is coming out any ays, so no lose.
 
Rusty, you're definitely going to have to post some photos of before and after! So the seat risers are already welded in? How much does the entire floor weigh? do you need to weld in braces for the frame so the body won't shift? This sounds like an exciting project!
dne'
 
A few years ago, Kevin Tetz of Horsepower TV did a one piece install in a 65/6 cpe in MMonthly. He got it in through a door opening.
 
"Dne'" said:
Rusty, you're definitely going to have to post some photos of before and after! So the seat risers are already welded in? How much does the entire floor weigh? do you need to weld in braces for the frame so the body won't shift? This sounds like an exciting project!
dne'
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The seat risers are not welded to the floor. They have to be welded in after the floor is installed. The entire floor weighs maybe close to the same as a hood... it's just so large and flimsy that it takes 2 people to carry it. I highly recommend supporting the car as much as possible to eliminate any chance of the the car twisting or flexing. Better safe than sorry! One thing I wish I would have done different since I am replacing the torque boxes as well is to only remove enough of the floor to get the new torque boxes in....then cut the rest of the floor out. I haven't come across any problems yet, but in the back of my mind, I'm waiting for something to go wrong. :amaz
 
Gee, I wish I could go back in time and have done a full flloor! Also would have been a great time to work beneath the dash with the floor out of the way!! Imagine sitting on the floor of the garage working on underneath the dash vs. laying on your back struggling, jeopordizing your neck! argh! I guess the only thing I see, is that my floor needed more work up towards the firewall, but not all the way up; maybe just as high as the brake pedal. The finished product looks really really nice! thanks!! dne'

"manley" said:
I couldn't find the Mustang Monthly article, but here is another one saying they put it in through the doorway.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/body/mufp_0805_vintage_mustang_dynacorn_floor_install/index.html
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:$$$ I heard there are two companies, Dynacorn and Sherman, making the 1 piece floor. Does anyone know which one is the best quality? :$$$
 
Get the Dynacorn. If you want about 20 high resolution pics of the Dynacorn floor, the reliefs and assorted parts that come with it, I have them available. Or I guess I could upload and post them here. Will take some time to find them though.
 
"Jacks65GTVERT" said:
:$$$ I heard there are two companies, Dynacorn and Sherman, making the 1 piece floor. Does anyone know which one is the best quality? :$$$
Click to expand...

I am getting the Goodmark I guess (do they make there own?), I want the E-brake cable dimples that the 64/65 had. The Dynacorn pan is not correct for these years.
 
I just put in a order for one today for Fred (65 coupe) with Tony at RPS (restoration parts source) and it should be here later next week. They don't charge me any shipping since he has it delivered to his shop with his weekly order and I just pick it up once it gets here. I'm currently trying to remove my floor pan in one piece so I can measure anything that might be missing on the repro but I will let you know what I think once its in my garage.
 
It's kind of weird, but for some reason on the convertible floor (no side flange) Dynacorn put the '65 rear brake cable bumps in, but on the coupe/fastback floor they didn't.

If I would have known that back then, I would have ordered a coupe floor and trimmed the flange off the side to use in my convertible since the '67 didn't have them.
 
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