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1965 Fastback restomod

GPR

Active Member
The owner Chris is serving in Iraq until April. He thought he had bought a good body until it came back from the media blaster. Someone had repaired the rust with fiberglass mat.

It was hard to leave his son. This is what we started with when I picked it up last April

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After it was media blasted

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We decided to start in the front and work our way back. Someone had replaced the front fender apron but they just welded it in very few places over part of the old one. Brian my son removed it cleaned up it up and reattached it.

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Brian welded the shock towers

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Epoxied the front end with SPI epoxy

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Brian cut the floor out next step will be subframe connectors.

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Brian starting making the right subframe connector. Since the early Mustang has no torque box in the front we are making one out of 2 x 2 and also welding it to the rocker and the rear torque box. He still has to finish welding it to the rocker


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Brian finished welding the rocker and added the top of the rear torque box

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Brian has started welding the right floor pan

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The floor is finished and epoxy primed

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This is what we found under the cowl panel

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After the lower cowl panel is removed

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The dash also has rust and was removed

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:part OMG! You guys are miracle workers! Great documentation!!! Kat needs to see this cowl part! KAAAAATTTTT~~~
dne'
 
Great Work! I'm looking forward to seeing how you fix under the rear window. My 65 fastback is rusted quite a bit there.
 
Brian cut the drip rails off than drilled out the spot welds and removed the roof. Now he can repair the rust and epoxy prime the area that the factory left bare metal.

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Removed the top layer of the door jamb and this is how it looked

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Cut out the rust and started making a patch

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Brian made a patch for the top of the side cowl panel.

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:thu I think I enjoyed the structural part of my restomod more than anything else~ ! Mine was not as severe by any means! but I'm learning a great deal from your build thread!! I wish I was there to help! :part
dne'
 
"GPR" said:
Brian cut the drip rails off than drilled out the spot welds and removed the roof. Now he can repair the rust and epoxy prime the area that the factory left bare metal.

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My roof has some rust on the back edge. I'm trying to decide if I should replace the whole thing, or just the back edge.

The main thing keeping me from doing the whole thing is, I can't figure out how the drip rail works. How does it come off ? It looks to me to be tucked under the roof?

When you say "cut it off" what does that mean exactly, can it be put back on?
 
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"jtfx6552" said:
My roof has some rust on the back edge. I'm trying to decide if I should replace the whole thing, or just the back edge.

The main thing keeping me from doing the whole thing is, I can't figure out how the drip rail works. How does it come off ? It looks to me to be tucked under the roof?

When you say "cut it off" what does that mean exactly, can it be put back on?

No there was to much rust and the drip rail will not be used. Brian cut it off the drip rail with a cutoff wheel and drilled out the spot welds in the window channel to remove the roof.

The remains of the drip rail after the roof is removed.

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Spot welds drilled out and you can see the surface rust under the old drip rail

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Brian made a few more patches for the right front door jamb.

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Brian made patches for the cowl and than I used 3m panel adhesive to bond them

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"67 Fastback" said:
I've got the same Clarke 130EN. What are you guys using for shielding?
Bill

We use a argon co2 mix is that what you wanted to know since I'm not a welder.
 
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Brian repaired the top of the firewall

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