1967 Build called Electra

just don't over tighten the pinion nut (probably should replace it as well) That nut when done originally squeezes a crush sleeve that sets the pinion bearings. They are supposed to be replaced and not reused and if you over tighten it to keep it from coming loose it will burn up the bearings.

 

nevermind, I reread your post. you were talking about the seal on the trans.

 

Yeah, they aren't fun. Best approach I know is to drive a chisel into the edge and collapse it in and then pry it out. I've yet to find an actual puller that can hook in form the inside and get one out.

 

You've got a leak somewhere or air in the system. Make sure you are keeping the MC full as you bleed. If it gets too low you can reintroduce air into the system.

 

Just fill it up and start bleeding the brakes as usual. Just keep an eye on the level and add as needed to keep it near full as you go. This is the easiest way to make sure to fully purge the full system. If you have a helper work the pedal life is a lot easier.

 

The master should give a little squirt as the pedal is starting to be depressed. It lets the pressurized fluid back out of the calipers/wheel cylinders when you take your foot off.

Slow strokes tend to work better than stabs at the pedal, I find. I like to open the bleeders on the rear (calipers in your case) and let gravity feed fluid through the lines. Closing the bleeders and pumping the brakes and then opening them again sometimes makes this happen faster. Also gives you time to drink a beer while maintaining the fluid level in the master.

When fluid starts leaking out of one rear caliper, close it and wait for it to come out the other. Repeat this procedure for the fronts. *Most of the air will be out of the system at this point and it will be time for an assistant to pump the brakes while you Crack the bleeder.

I have used vaculas and mityvacs and all sorts of goofy bleeding tools. This is the procedure I have found to work time and time again on just about every hydraulic brake system, vw beetles exempt.

 

I agree with gravity bleeding. I have a few different vacuum bleeders and sometimes they are good to get the fluid moving but quickly ditch them once there is fluid at the bleeder.

 

I recently bought a new welder too. The right tools make the job so much easier!

 

Don't be in a hurry to start welding on the car. Spend a LOT of time practicing with the new set-up to learn how to use it. Low power 110 welders are not all equal for sure. Mixed stuff is what I heard about the Eastwood units. What I do know is lower amperage welders like that one can be tricky to get good penetration on thicker metal. Especially consistently. Practice on like thickness stock to know what you are dealing with. Plus, as a first time user of non-flux (gas) it is a whole new world anyway.

 

I bought a 220V 130Amp so I can build stuff! I have found that even on the lowest settings it's much hotter than my 110V was. I have never used flux core. I love wire feed MIG