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1967 Fastback converting to Electric Fans / Carburetor fuel boiling

Discussion in 'General Mustang Discussion' started by 67stang, Jul 16, 2018.

  1. 67stang

    67stang Active Member

    Update:

    Mock up of the puller:

    [​IMG]


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  2. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    I see issue with doing it like that. You need an air gap between the face of the radiator and the "shroud". Doing it that way will render the portions of the radiator that are covered almost non-functional. There can be no airflow through the vanes so the heat cannot be removed.
     
  3. 67stang

    67stang Active Member

    100% agree. Sorry I should have explained it better.

    The photo doesn’t show that’s there is a little more than a 1/4 gap between the plate and the fins. The fins are recessed from the outer edges of the radiator were the outside plate will mount. [​IMG]


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  4. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    Good to see there is a gap but is it enough? I'm inclined to think its not. I'm not home at the moment but when I get back I will take a measurement of my set-up for comparison. I think you will find that given as tight as things sit large areas in the four corners will not see the fan being able to pull the hot air away adequately. There will be so much air turbulence that a consistent exit flow cannot be established.

    Maybe the next step should be to set things up this way in a temporary fashion and do some testing to see how it performs compared to how the temps changed without the plate.
     
  5. 67stang

    67stang Active Member

    Okay thanks!




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  6. 67stang

    67stang Active Member

    Finale update! ( at least on the electric fans)

    Wow!!! The Spal fans are fantastic!!! Yes I do hear them outside the car but Wow. I can’t overheat the car if I try. The puller works awesome, and the pusher is great because my ac is is nice and cool 100% of the time.

    I do think my homemade shroud works. It really does suck and pull a tremendous amount of air.

    At first I was bummed that the mechanical fan had to go. But now if I had to chose I would chose the electric fans because of the power. I can really tell a difference in power, maybe because I have a 5 speed manual, and when I shift with the mechanical fan installed, the engine rpms die off really quick unless I quick shift. Now during shifting the Rpms stay up so it’s easier to slide into the next gear.

    Thank you all for your input!! I couldn’t have done it without you guys.

    [​IMG]




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  7. KBMWRS

    KBMWRS What did the moron say today?

    Ah...these guys are really good at sucking and blowing.:rolleyes::D

    Glad you're happy with the outcome.
     
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  8. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    One last point to consider. You may want/need to put some relief holes in your shroud plate corners to alleviate excess pressure build-up. Mine has a couple louvers in each and most others I've seen has something as well.

    Awesome you have been able to sort out all the things on your list so you can just enjoy the car!
     
  9. 67stang

    67stang Active Member

    Can you send a pic of your louvers?


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  10. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    fan setup.jpg
     
  11. 67stang

    67stang Active Member

    Wow that looks sharp! I know I’m going back and forth, but Now I wonder if I’m creating more problems with my shroud. I was thinking would rain get stuck in the shroud.

    Should I just leave it off?





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  12. KBMWRS

    KBMWRS What did the moron say today?

    From a aerodynamic view I would, if you HAVE to have it, put some vents in it and maybe a few drain holes at the bottom.
     
  13. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    If you look at the diameter of my fan compared to the surface area of the radiator shroud you can see it covers all but the square corner portions. The shroud face also sticks out about 1/2" from the radiator fins. This allows the air to flow through much better with little disruption. The louvers are there to lessen pressure/air turbulence in the "blocked" spaces as it is drawn across into the fan. That is my biggest worry about the flat plate design. I think it is too close limiting airflow and trapping heat. Adding a series of drilled holes in each corner section would do nothing but improve the situation.

    I wouldn't be too concerned with rain building up behind it as that plate will not be water tight on the bottom edge and it should drain out alright. What are you doing driving in the rain anyway?!
     
  14. 67stang

    67stang Active Member

    Lol. I do try and stay away from the rain, but it’s Florida.. lol.

    Does your fan normally stay on during the summer??

    I just drove it on the highway 90-deg F today) for about 30 min. And I’m pretty sure the fan was on the entire time. The temperature does not move it seems to be about 177-180.




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  15. Horseplay

    Horseplay I Don't Care. Do you?

    Once it turns on the fan stays on when driving. All I have is the one puller fan.
     
  16. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    I drive mine in the rain! I even tried to drive it in the snow, but that was unproductive
    Picture 016.jpg
     
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  17. 67stang

    67stang Active Member

    Nice photo shot!


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  18. KBMWRS

    KBMWRS What did the moron say today?

    hahaha snow.
     
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  19. 67stang

    67stang Active Member

    So week 1 with the new fan. Only put about 50 miles on the beast and no issues!! With temp at all!! Pretty cool when things actually work. Lol.

    My next upgrade will be EPAS and Unisteer Rack: I will post pics and updates on my other topic called EPAs.


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  20. camachinist

    camachinist Member

    Really impressed with all the technology in the cooling systems these days. Couple things from my days doing racing and street stuff...

    I found the linen/epoxy phenolic we used in the oilfield steam systems worked really well for isolator plates. Expensive but man it did a good job of isolating the carb. Strong too. Ran plenum dividers in them and they took all kinds of abuse at the track without complaint. Between that and running the OEM steel fuel line in the OEM location the street car never had a vapor lock occur, even when the OEM radiator when south and the engine was running really hot. When I switched to the OEM Cobra manifold I had to go from a 1" to a 1/2" for hood clearance with the OEM air cleaner but that didn't matter from the vapor lock standpoint.

    I noted one picture from the OP with the space in front of the radiator support open. I found a significant improvement by closing that off. I ended up machining a scrap piece of composite laminate flooring I had laying around and fitting it. That removed an alternative path for air flowing through the grill. I think they make some sort of rubber seal that goes on top of the support but the plate was easy to make and positively blocked off the space and a bonus is it's a flat place to lay tools when working on the engine.

    Glad everything worked out. I hate cooling problems. Love seeing that gauge pointed over to the C side.
     

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