• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

1967 Hot Rod

"RyanG85" said:
Cool video, car sounds awesome!

Sounds even better in person. The build quality and engineering are exceptional, to paint it would lessen the overall impact in my opinion. Beaters rule.
 
"mmw68" said:
Wow, next time Iam in Dallas, I'll have too see it in person. Have you thought about rattle can flat black on the car for now?

Can you post up a picture of the hood and scoop please.

-Mark



The scoop is riveted on. Its a 67 Shelby replica from Mustangs Plus. It was needed to clear the supercharger.

Here ya go:
 

Attachments

  • 2011 January 1.jpg
    685.5 KB · Views: 315
  • 2010 October 158.jpg
    73.2 KB · Views: 289
  • DSCN5134.JPG
    29.8 KB · Views: 274
  • 2010 November 014.jpg
    35.6 KB · Views: 301
Ok, time to do a few upgrades. #1 Get the Detroit 4:11 Clicker OUT and the Detroit 3:80 Tru Trak IN.

I do not have a 2 post lift and my lift did not have a "jack tray", so I'll just make one. I picked up some 3" angle and flat plate and made this:
 

Attachments

  • 2011 November 039.jpg
    928.4 KB · Views: 45
  • 2011 November 041.jpg
    933.3 KB · Views: 46
  • 2011 November 035.jpg
    120.2 KB · Views: 36
  • 2011 November 029.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 34
  • 2011 November 027.jpg
    945.1 KB · Views: 37
  • 2011 November 025.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 235
I knew my tires rubbed during hard cornering esp with a passenger.

I feel a "while I'm at it" coming on....
 

Attachments

  • 2011 November 042.jpg
    364.8 KB · Views: 50
  • 2011 November 045.jpg
    907.6 KB · Views: 44
  • 2011 November 043.jpg
    952.5 KB · Views: 39
  • 2011 November 044.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 51
  • 2011 November 046.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 56
Part of my winter upgrade for a little more inner rear tire clearance. Remove seat belt pads and move inboard a bit.

After I easily removed the seat belt pad, I promptly broke my new spot weld remover trying to drill out the rear end rubber mount bracket on each side above the axle. Oh well and the Cowboy's lost in OT. I care more about my spot weld remover than the Cowboy's.
 

Attachments

  • 2011 November 074.jpg
    241.3 KB · Views: 42
  • 2011 November 055.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 40
  • 2011 November 077.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 24
  • 2011 November 075.jpg
    893.6 KB · Views: 24
I'm going to get that 1.75" of inner tire clearance!

What two rust free inner fenders look like:
 

Attachments

  • 2011 November 115.jpg
    961 KB · Views: 42
  • 2011 November 111.jpg
    969.9 KB · Views: 47
  • 2011 November 087.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 40
So.... I went up to the Northern Hydraulic Store and went to the Hot Rod Section, aka trailer parts, for some new inner fenders. I carried the inner fender in with me for comparison. I ended up buying two of these for $29 each, will have to return and get one more to complete the job. I just shoved it in for a quick pic, it was too wide to go in where it belongs. I need approx 6.5". I am gonna split it next and try to get this finished before SPRING!
 

Attachments

  • 2011 November 099.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 56
  • 2011 November 102.jpg
    1,012.6 KB · Views: 56
  • 2011 November 065.jpg
    964.1 KB · Views: 53
Got the passenger side nearly finished. Driver should be easier as I noted a few "shortcuts".
 

Attachments

  • 2012 Feb 002.jpg
    977.1 KB · Views: 62
Oh yea, in keeping with the stealth theme, the rear interior side panels fit.
 

Attachments

  • 2012 Feb 008.jpg
    1,021.2 KB · Views: 42
  • 2012 Feb 009.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 38
  • 2012 Feb 010.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 34
Ryan, I sure hope so. I am duplicating the Ring Brothers 67 Reactor rear wheel treatment. According to the build book, everything should fit.
 
"Coleman" said:
Ryan, I sure hope so. I am duplicating the Ring Brothers 67 Reactor rear wheel treatment. According to the build book, everything should fit.

Did you move the wheel house in 1.75" or is that the net clearance you ended up with after the move? IIRC, there isn't a whole lot of space between the inner wheel house and the frame rail... On the interior, there's normally a small side panel mounting bracket welded to the side of the original wheel house near where the carpeted panels sit that is only prodrudes out about 1/2 maybe 5/8". If you moved the inner in any more than that, then you'll likely end up with a space too small to fit the panels in between. Just looking at the 3rd pic, it also looks like the wheel house is up much higher than it should be to fit the fold down latch.
If you're not doing a fold down, then it's no big deal as you can easily make or rework a bracket to hold up the seatback, but if your going fold down, then youl likely need to notch the top of the wheel house for the sliding latch.
 
Not a 100% sure. I hope it fits, and according to the build book is should. I still have the original inner wheel panels and the bracket is still on them.

I'm doing a re-seat useable roll bar next then partial rear floor pans and then back together. Its gonna be 80 degrees here tomorrow and I'm wanting this winter project finished!!
 
Back
Top