1968 mustang coupe Suspension/brakes ...help..

[68angrypony]

I have a 1968 mustang coupe I have trying to bring back to life. Before I got the car a few years ago it was sitting in a driveway for 20 plus years. Hasn't been registered since 87 I believe. It only has 85k on the odometer. With that being said, It has 4 wheel drum brakes and unknown suspension. It does have air shocks in the rear, not sure if that is an indicator of anything. This project currently is a budget build. I would like to use the car for street/strip use and just enjoy it for now. To get the car back on the road and to do somethings right the first time, What should I do to the car to get it to a street/strip condition? I'm a complete rooking with this car/old cars in general. It does have manuel steering which I plan to keep for that more positive feel. The air shocks will inflate and their are no audible leaks but over an hour it will deflate back down. The fill lines are old and brittle so I ordered some new lines I plan on installing to test to find out if it was the lines or the shocks. The black sleeve/rubber on the shocks looks it decent condition which is surprising.

 

[Jonk67]

First tip would be not to waste money fixing the air shocks. They do not belong on the car, someone added them to compensate for worn out leaf springs (sag) or to keep the wrong size tire/wheel combination from rubbing the rear fenders. Take the airshocks off and carefully inspect the upper shock mount area for any signs of stress cracks. The upper shock mounting area is thin steel and not designed to support the wt. of the car (this is what the leafs are for) the shock should only control ride/bounce. I had airshocks on a '70 years ago and the upper mount cracked and eventually punched through, I didn't know it was cracking until that happened. I had to remove gas tank and have it welded.

Get a decent pair of shocks like the KYB GR-2's, you can get a set of 4 for <$100, then see how the leafs are, you will probably need new leaf springs but they are 45yrs. old after all.

Got any pics of the car? We like pics bj
Jon

 

[68angrypony]

pics as requested. As she sits today:

What would be a good leaf spring/shock combo for the rear to raise it a little bit for that muscle car stance? Or does that affect performance driving at the track?

 

[tarafied1]

lower center of gravity is probably better at the track but weak or sagging springs is not the way to do it. I run "Grab-A-Track" 5 leaf standard eye springs and gas shocks on the rear. The car is kinda stiff riding and I feel it handles pretty well for the stock type suspension on a street car. You can buy springs with more arch or different eye configuration to raise or lower the car.
My springs lifted the rear when first installed but now it sits about where I wanted it too.

 

[Jonk67]

A lower stance is what you want for track duty, not necessarily slammed if it's going to do double duty as a street car. Many of us who want a little of both go with the mideye leafs, I used the 4 1/2 leaf and KYB GR-2 shocks which is less stiff than Craig's (above) 5 leaf and I'm guessing KYB Gas-A-Just shocks? If he has the same gas shocks as I then the extra full leaf in his is what makes it stiffer ride. I liked the way mine rode but haven't taken it on open track yet to push it, probably get Bilsteins or Koni's if I get to do that often.

If you want the raked look with the rear higher that won't be the preferable stance for the track but if that's the look you want I'd go with the standard eye as Craig mentioned.

As it still has the stock steelies I'd say leaf sag was the reason for the airshocks.
Jon

 

[tarafied1]

...Craig's (above) 5 leaf and I'm guessing KYB Gas-A-Just shocks? ...

I have the Mustangs Plus Grab-A-Track gas shocks, don't know who makes them.

I have run my car on the Nashville Speedway "parade laps" during two different open track events and pushed it pretty hard in the twisty's both times. It does pretty well for a nose heavy car. Needs bigger tires in the front for sure. I have the OpenTracker roller spring perches, 620 lbs front springs and the Shelby/Arning drop. Also the same Grab-A-Track gas shocks up front. I only have a 1" front anti-sway bar and none in the rear. Subframe connectors welded in and welded reinforced shock towers with a export brace too. I have Poly bushings everywhere too. I think that's everything. It drives much better than stock (I've this car over 22 years) and I plan on adding the ORP strut rods and idler arm eventually. Maybe a Borgsen PS gearbox too...
These old cars can be fun but still a long way from what a new car feels like.

 

[68angrypony]

So I looked underneath the car and snapped some pictures. It looks strong where the shocks are mounted to. Are they really that weak? Where can I gain access to the top of the shock towers? I didn't easily find them unless they are under the back seat.

 

[Horseplay]

you need to pull the seat. also should remove the shocks to get a good look at the area to inspect for cracks. they would originate around the hole the upper shock stud comes through.

 

[tarafied1]

on a coupe you can access them with out pulling the seat but it's a lot easier with the seat out. There should be two rubber plugs (oval shape) in the access hole on the front side of the hump over the axle.

 

[68angrypony]

great pics. Thank you. Now that I know what I'm looking for I will try again. So I should remove the air shocks and get some new lefts in the rear along with some new shocks? I'm thinking its not a bolt on job to do coil springs in the rear or coil overs, so really my only bolt in option is new springs/shocks front and rear?

 

[Opentracker]

Call me cheap but if the car doesn't lean to one side in the back and the ride height is OK for you, just put on a set of the $56pr. Grab-A-Track rear shocks and be done with it for now. I sounds like getting it on the road is important and that time and money ( for new leaf springs ) could be spent on other things to get the car going.

It looks like a nice project car to work with.

LINK
https://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1965 ... hocks.html

 

[68angrypony]

It sits a bit low in the back for m personally. I wouldn't mind being able to raise it up just a little bit. I think it may lean a little to the passengers side as well. Air shocks are obviously fully empty. I was just thinking if I take the shocks up and try to sell them and get a couple bucks for the air shocks and the stock springs, might be able to get something I put in and know the condition and it might not be much more as I got a set of front coils with some other parts I picked up a while ago.

 

[Midlife]

You can raise the rear end a bit by using longer rear shackles, but it doesn't fully compensate for worn leaf springs.

 

[tarafied1]

You can raise the rear end a bit by using longer rear shackles, but it doesn't fully compensate for worn leaf springs.

That will work as Mid said but eventually the springs will sag even more.
The ride height in the pics does look low but not too bad. Of course weight will lower it more. What wheels and Tires are you planning? If they don't rub, you can always change the springs later and do the gas shocks. You probably won't get anything for the used air shocks and the old springs would be worth more as scrap than to some else.

 

[68angrypony]

I was thinking of 17's so I can do larger brakes for sudden stops, track days/strip and course, etc. With the 351c it sits low in the front already without any lowering springs etc. Would be nice to start to get a plan and understanding of options so I can get it set up right the first time. would like to feel confident in the car no matter what I do with it.