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65 gt

spitse

New Member
I got my eye on a 65 gt for sale. However I’m wanting to make sure it is a real as can be GT.

What is confusing is there are hard rules, yet dealers could add stuff to make a a code a GT as well.

Few questions. Can there be a build date of Jan 65 and still be a GT? I’ve seen April 65 would be earliest and then feb 65 on another website so needing clarification. Then if a dealer could take a A code and add the gt package to it, why not on a Jan 65 built car?

Can a 65 GT have the reverse lights?

Should I be suspicious if the drivers door does not have the interior light/marker but the passenger side does.

Same for the metal “mustang”lettering on the fender. What if you only have the stripe and not the letters. (It does have the gt emblem).

One final concern was the fuel cap. It looks to be a standard type and not showing the gt lettering.

I know the color is not original and pretty sure fenders are not original metal.

If I posted in wrong section please move to correct section.




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this info may be of some help

The GT Package
1965 Mustang GTs were very different from the regular cars. They also had many factory modifications that are hard to duplicate after production. Because different plants produced Mustangs in different ways, not all rules are firm and fast. but there are some of these rules that must be met!

The very basic rule is that every GT must be either a "K" code car or an "A" code car built after mid February 1965, no exceptions. The GT must have a dual exhaust system with exhaust trumpeters that exit through a special rear valance with 2 exhaust openings. Because of thes exhaust openings, the rear bumper guards were omitted. The bracket bolt holes were sealed with small rubber plugs. To accommodate the dual exhaust, special exhaust hangar reinforcements were used on the rear hangars behind the rear seats.

The GT's exterior had a small GT badge on each front fender and GT stripes that ran from the rear of the front wheel well to the front of the rear wheel opening. They did not receive the standard M U S T A N G or M U S T A N G 2 + 2 emblems so there should not be any holes drilled and patched from these. Rocker molding were deleted and not an option.

The front of the car received a set of fog lights mounted on horizontal bars. The will either be one hole or two holes punched in the front of the radiator support for the wires to run through. There will be a fog light circuit breaker (mounted on brake pedal bracket) and a fog light switch that is mounted under the dash on the inside of the car. There are several locations where the switch was mounted so that is not a determining factor. The switch had one male and 2 female connectors that connected into the main wiring harness. One thing is that whenever the fog lights are turned on, the taillights also come on. After market switches do not have this option.

There will be no little "C" side scoop ornamentation on a GT.

Mechanically speaking, the GT was built with a 16:1 quick ration steering gearbox. They had a stiffer suspension and heavier (thicker) front sway bar. Gt's received heavy duty shock absorbers. Along with the beefed up suspension, GT's were equipped with a larger single master cylinder, a proportioning valve, disc brakes and a brake pedal that was labeled "Disc Brake".

The interior received a 5 dial analog instrument cluster and a flat glove box door in camera case black.
 
Not the concourse expert here but I would very strongly suggest you disregard the superficially easy to fake stuff and dive deep to inspect for the structural elements to find signs of authenticity. Craig's post about lists some this stuff.
 
Horseplay. I plan on it. I just did not want to get my hopes up if the vin build date is the killer.

I am going on photos and vin plate numbers as the car is physically 4 hrs from my location. So commitment is needed.

I did read about checking the sway bar with a 3/4 open end wrench to have a quick verification if it is the larger one or not.

It seams as most of the stuff is there outside the build date question. Manuel steering and factory disk brakes. The 5 Gauge instrument bezel (66 style), the disk break logo on the brake peddle. Gt Fog lights and dual trumpet exhaust through rear valence.

I have looked a bit more on some pics and realized there may be a accident repair on the drivers side and that is why the mustang lettering and lights on inside door are missing.

Obviously I don’t want to pay gt price for a non gt. So I wanted to be ready with info if I decide to go look at it hands on.


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Jan 1965 is too early for the GT; I believe production started late February, according to In Search of Mustangs.
About the only thing difficult to replicate on a non-GT car is the support tube on the rear axle for the dual exhaust. The foglamp switch should be a D-shaped hole. The dash hole should have a dip just above the steering wheel for the centered speedometer.

Another check is to pull the engine gauge feed harness from the firewall. A 65 GT will have 7 used pins, which is unique to this car. However, it is easy enough to replace all of the wiring from a 65 to a GT. Another thing to check is whether the heater is 2 speed or 3 speed: the changeover occurred about the same time; if 2 speed, then it definitely is not a GT.
 
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