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'66FB GT "Slick Guzzo" Upgrade Build-Up

H

hivewax

Member
As some of you know, I bought a new 9" rear end, 4-wheel disc brakes, racing suspension parts, & wheels/tires. all this because the original 8" gave out. anyways, i like to thank the people who answered my questions. in return, i will post some pictures of the install of these upgrades and will have a blog where everything will be stored.

today, i removed the old rear drum brakes, 8" housing, and leaf springs. i have a great friend that's helping me out. the parking brake cable was tough to remove from the drums, but the rest went smoothly. we cleaned the 9" housing w/mineral spirits and sanded it down and wire wheeled it also. cleaned it again. then, primed it w/3 coats.

the biggest problem i didn't tell you all is i have major rust in the passenger rear full frame rail extension that's will require ~24" of new metal. the RH truck floor pan is rusted also. maybe 3 years ago, i had a roll bar installed that is welded in the trunk area and they said the pan and rail was okay. well, we will be tackling this to save some major coin.

i'll post some pictures tomorrow and link to the blog site. if you have any requests, please post up. thanx.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

here's the frame rail... looks ugly!

while i'm waiting for the new metal, we were notching the hole for the vario-centric camber adjuster kit.

i'm thinking about treating the undercarriage and ever nook and cranny with rust inhibitor after taking out all the rust. what brand would you all recommend... Metal Ready, Eastwood, POR-15, Zero Rust, or other?
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

bah...that's not that bad. Fist-sized patches of daylight is bad! :hide :rofl

I fixed the same thing on my old red Mustang and it's not too bad if you replace the trunkfloor at the same time, makes getting to things nice and easy and you can be a little careless taking things apart that way. Just be aware that most repop frame rail patches are 3/4" shorter than they need to be, so don't just slap it in without double checking that it fits right and slides into the groove in the rear panel like it is supposed to.

The schmo that fixed my car just "assumed" that they fit right and replaced both with repops, now they aren't connected to the rear of the car. :doh I am NOT looking forward to that, he did a damned nice looking job of installing everything and I don't know how I'm going to sneak in and fix it without it looking like hell afterwards. :rofl

You have a distinct advantage though, you've got to replace the trunkfloor, so it's much easier to make it look good. Good luck, and please keep us updated!
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

thanx for the encouragement. it shouldn't be that difficult to replace with an extra set of hands.

now, what's the best rust paint to use?? :conf
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I will be notching the rest of the pivot bolt holes for the camber kit. Wish me luck.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I didn't finish the notching, but I took off the driver side front disc brakes. This was my first try and it was pretty easy to disassemble. I'll need to remove the linkage to finish up the notching.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

Wondering... What do the dust shield for the brakes serve as other then keeping dust from flying everywhere? Has anyone removed them?
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I think they might also serve to flow air thru the rotor for cooling...
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

Okay, now I'm stumped. How do you take the LCA bolt out from the spindle. I've been hitting it with a hammer like 100X. I don't want to hit the bolt. Do I need the fork or a BFH?
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

put the castle nut back on just enough to protect the treads and smack it, you may damage the nut but they are cheap.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

Okay, I used a 4# hammer and penetrating oil to knock the tapered bolt from the spindle.

Now, I'm doing the UCA drop template. Do I leave the template on permanently? And, do you use the bolts from the old UCA to hold the template at the existing holes?
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

No need to leave the template on. Use whatever bolt fits the hole to keep it lined up.

I used a paper template when I did mine, so you're waaaaaay ahead!
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

here are the results. as you can see there is a lot of surface rust and small holes along the frame rail. i'll wire wheel everything and patch the holes. what would you recommend i do after... POR-15 or prime/paint??
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

after a little research, i believe POR-15 is best when compared to EastWood and Rust Bullet.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

you might want to reinforce the shock tower, that is a major structural part of the car. You don't want it to separate from the frame, plus you might find that you can't keep an alignment. I actually replaced my shock towers when they looked like that.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I'll take another picture with all the crude off. I think it just need patching up.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I'd be real leary of doing any more work till you either replace the shock tower or as Tara mentioned, some major reinforcement. There is a lot of stress since the engine and suspension all attaches in that general area.
 
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