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'66FB GT "Slick Guzzo" Upgrade Build-Up

Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

Went back and looked at the pic you posted and the "new" bolt I saw is only at the outer edge, you still have the same bolt at the LCA contact point I do. The diff is that my pic is with the steering turned lock to lock, bumping the stop and you said you have a 1" gap at the same point, is that correct?
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I'll need to look under there again and shoot some pictures. I turned the wheel right, so maybe the pitman arm hitting the header was the case of the 1" to stop bracket.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

When the wheel goes right, pitman arm goes left, so pitman arm and header is not an issue.

Front suspension needs to be fully loaded to settle the LCAs at ride height. Then, I believe the caliper body will interfere with the LCA like the pictures below (wheel going right)...
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

The car looks awesome Loren :coo :coo :coo :coo :coo
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

Thanks. Since I got the car in 2004, I've been thinking what wheels to buy. I think I made a good choice. Wheels and stance can change the look of a car drastically!
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

Only 3 quarts for rear pumpkin! Do not fill to the brim.

EDIT: Ask me, "how I know?!"
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

The front bumper is nicked from a hitting a truck hitch. Doors are slightly hitting the fenders. I have a R-model apron that needs to be fitted and painted... the fenders are not aligning with it. The lower part of driver side fender is curved out more, so it needs to be pulled in. I was thinking of making an adjustable fender rod/bolt that attaches to the lower fender and to the frame rail.

Rear bumper is off because there's bondo underneath covering holes. I'm going to weld in new metal and paint it VHT epoxy flat black.

I also like the bumpers off. It looks much more aggressive and industrial... sort of a minimalism thinker. I also removed the dash pad, headliner, rear fold-down seat, + armrests. Traffic sees it and it says back off MOFO! =P

Again, any advice to some of the issues would be great...

EDIT: GT fog lights off, too.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

When I switched LCAs from TCP to C-A, the alignment toe-in changed a lot from -1/8 to 2.00-3.00. I told the shop I didn't change anything and maybe the springs settled to stay under warranty. They couldn't get the toe-in at -1/8 for the Baer bump steer arm is too long at 5.75". Arm took all the threads on both sides. I will need to shave 0.5" off each side of the arms.

Just letting you guys know about this if you buy the Baer kit with big spindles '70-73.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

Fuel pump is busted...a new one is ~$16 at AutoZoo, I'd just replace it and do another oil change.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I'm going to take the carb off and use parts cleaner... I believe it's a stinking float. The Holley fuel pump is practically new since the rebuild say 2 years ago.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I also plan to do a scavenging/evacuation system where a hose is connected from the valve cover breather cap to the header collector on each side. I hope I can weld a bung onto the collector without taking the headers off. I remember Mark (silverblueBP) talking about this, so he provided some pictures of his install. Thanks again, Mark.

I'm doing this because I think it's a good safe precaution in relieving pressure in the block. I had the intake to block seals redone 4 times... read here -
http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,6122.0.html - this last time, I'm letting the Permatex cure for 7 days.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I tacked mine on, then removed the headers to weld 360*, you don't want any leaks! My headers are super easy to R&R though :vic
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

The evac system is similar to mine, the rest......my memory is failing me. I cannot remember where I found the hose or grommet :shy

I think any braided hose should work fine, check for the heat range.
 
Re: '66FB GT Upgrade Build-Up

I inspected the fuel pump and didn't see anything wrong with the diaphragm (pictures below). I then went along cleaning the carburetor off the car and adjusting the floats with the help of an old gear-head neighbor, electrical engineer retiree, who's has a mid 80's Pontiac Fiero heavily modified with Ferrari Konig body kit and Chevy 350 block carburetor turbo.

He adjusted the floats by just blowing into the fuel inlet passage... something I've never seen before, which seems easier than adjusting the floats on a running engine. Hopefully, this will cure the gas in the oil. Next, I'm going to clean the PCV valve and the K&N breather filter cap. Then, start the car and drive it around like normal. If the intake to block seals leaks again, I'll do the crankcase evacuation system.
 
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