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67-68 pedal support question

E

Edavilleman

New Member
what is the difference between a pedal support for manual brakes and power brakes.

i have one for manual brakes and plan on putting power brakes in my car will it work. it will also be a manual trans
 
"Edavilleman" said:
what is the difference between a pedal support for manual brakes and power brakes.

i have one for manual brakes and plan on putting power brakes in my car will it work. it will also be a manual trans
Click to expand...

well for one, the actual pedal is smaller on a manual trans car, to allow more room for the clutch pedal
 
The difference is in how they mount to the firewall.

On MB cars, bolts come through the MC from the engine side into threaded inserts in the pedal support.

On PB cars, there are studs on the booster that poke through the firewall, so there must be holes without inserts in the pedal support.

A MB support will work on a PB car if you knock out the inserts.


Also,
The PB pivots way up high in the support whereas MB pivots in that big, bushed hole in the middle. But both supports have both holes, so aside from the inserts, they're interchangeable.
 
IMHO the pedal supports are the same between manual brakes and pwer brakes.
The mounting place of the power brake is located more to the front and higher in the support.
The brake pedal from a manual brake difference from a power brake by its length and mounting position.
 
Aside from the captive nuts on the firewall side of the pedal support, the pedal support itself is the same, it's the power brake pedal that's different.

No, you'll likely have problems where the top of the brake pedal connects to the master cylinder pushrod.
 
I tried to find a "value-priced" used one myself and had no luck. They are reproduced, though.

When converting to factory power brakes, you'll also need to elongate the hole in the firewall for the booster snout. As I recall, it is lower than the manual version, and the bottom of the hole has to be lowered. There's a template "out there" somewhere showing the reqired trimming (about 3/8" give or take). It's something they did at the factory.
 
There are a lot a differences between the 2 set up listed above. The are actually 4 distinctive set ups:

1) 67 manual brakes: Brake pedal is the same length as the clutch pedal, and mounts on the shaft of the clutch pedal, and the pedal from the mounting point to the rubber pedal is almost straight. The brake pedal has a thin rebound lug at the top. The carrier itself has 4 threaded lugs at the firewall.

2) 67 power brakes: Pedal is about 3.25" longer, and has a special bearing that allows it to mount to the top hole of the carrier. It is completely independent of the clutch pedal. The bend configuration is similar to the manual brake, and there is the rebound lug at the top. There is only 1 threaded lug in the carrier.

3) 68 manual brakes: Similar to 67 with the following differences: The brake pedal has a much more elongated bend from left to right and then back. While this puts the rubber pedal in the same place, it has to clear all of the col lapsable steering column. It also has no rebound lug at the top.

4) 68 power brakes: Differences are like the manual brakes above, mounts like the 67 power brake, but has the much more severe bending of the pedal arm to clear the steering column, plus it only has the single mounting lug at the "front" of the carrier where it mates to the firewall.

Additionally, both the clutch pedals and the brake pedals for 65 66 are different from the 67 68, due to the removal of the rebound pad on the 67 68 series.

The automatic power brake pedal is also different between 67 and 68, due to the more pronounced bend in the pedal.

I have most of the pedals sitting on a shelf right now in my garage, and went and picked them up to write about them.

Mustangmanbob
 
I'll just re-iterate some of what's been said and point out something that hasn't been said ... if you drill out the captive nuts, you can re-use the manual support. This is what I did in my '69.

You can use the '68-'70 power pedal in any '67-'70 car. You cannot, however, use the '67 pedal in anything but a '67.
 
I just converted my 67 MB setup to a 67 PB setup.

You will need a different pedal as the PB is much longer than the MB. You can use one from an automatic and trim the pedal down as I did. I think the manual PB one is out there now. The MB pedal rotated on the clutch pedal, the PB pedal has its own mounting hole at the top of the hanger, which changes the angle and leverage ratios during pedal travel for the booster.

The firewall will need to be modified for the new booster in two places. I recommend you get the booster you will be using first and test the fit before drilling out too much, as I did not have to elongate any of the three existing booster bolt holes for my 67.
1. There is usually a factory dimple at 6:00 below the large center booster hole for the fourth booster bolt, you just need to drill it out.
2. Elongate the large center booster hole at the top so the push rod assembly fits through.
wmnvh2.jpg


Modify the pedal hanger to accept the booster by using a cut off wheel to carefully remove the pot metal clinch nuts where the old master cylinder attached. You do not need a different hanger assembly.

I recommend the MustangSteve roller clutch kit, as long as you have it apart you might as well do it right. I was very pleased with mine and can send pictures over if you want.
 
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