• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

'67 eliminating pink resistor wire?

Jonk67

Jonk67

Well-Known Member
Hi all, while I've got a lot of stuff cleared out from under the dash at the moment I'd like to bypass the pink resistor wire and run a full 12V out to my coil/dist. and use a ceramic resistor in the engine bay as I'm installing the Crane XRi conversion when I get back on the road and don't trust the 40+yr. old resistor wire.

After reading this post, http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,1629.0.html , I see that I still need power through the resistor wire to juice the VR. I am using a 100A alt. with VR which has worked flawlessly for 6+mos. and I like the almost stock look of it and dont' mind the ext. VR. I switched to the higher amp for future upgrades and peace of mind.

1. If I still need the resistor wire to be fed voltage do I just wire from the post on back of the switch to feed the coil/dist?
2. Do I then just disconnect and seal off the old wire to the coil or what is the easiest/cleanest solution (trying to minimize engine wires)?
Will I avoid all these issues as long as I don't paint my car :gobp?
Thanks, Jon
 
The information you cute that the VR needs the pink resistor wire feed is incorrect; it needs the green/red wire that starts at the ignition switch (which is where the pink resistor wire starts as well).

Just cut the pink resistor wire near the ignition switch and shrink-wrap or electrical tape both ends. You'll need to run a wire from the green/red wire out to the firewall plug that also has the pink resistor wire and splice it there, effectively bypassing the resistor wire.

If you really intend to use a ceramic block in the engine compartment, the resistor wire is by far a better choice to use, so long as the wire and its insulation is in reasonable shape.
 
Thanks guys, now maybe I can get one thing done and out the way.
"the resistor wire is by far a better choice to use, so long as the wire and its insulation is in reasonable shape." this is what I'm afraid of, I have no way of telling if it's supplying good voltage all the time or heats up and drops out. I had an issue where the car would shut down after driving a while when I installed my Crane XRi emodule. I wanted to go with a new wire to eilimnate the old wire question. I pulled the engine before getting to the bottom of it.
Jon
 
I would leave the resistor wire in the system. Once the engine fires and runs, then see if it is bad. I have not heard of those wires going bad very often and if it is, it is still easy to replace if need be. I would think if it got hot and was breaking down, you would see other problems from the harness like melted wires and such. You could always go with a temp. fix to check it if the engine still shuts down......
 
Thanks Pete, I'll try that, I have the column, etc. out so I thought this would be the easiest time to get to the wiring.
Did you ever figure out your WP issue? I posted on your question with a pic and suggetion.
Jon
 
I am going to stay with the serpentine belt so I will swap to a newer pump. All kinds of things come into play.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top