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67 full quarter gaps and fit

Fst Blk

Fst Blk

Well-Known Member
Working on getting the passenger side quarter in. I've been dragging my feet being timid. I've adjusted and beat and banged. I think I'm just about there. I wanted you guys opinions on it.

Door gap
1009141912a_zps0418b0e2.jpg


I'm liking this gap up top.
1009141913_zps8181f6cd.jpg


The lower gap is a little tighter and I've worked it as much as I can. I think working the door is the only option now. Also the style line is a little high on the door???
1009141912b_zpse7b4b2d8.jpg


Trunk gap
1009141914_zpseef2386b.jpg


This gap has been a booger. I finally was able to get the quarter flush with filler panel.
1009141911_zps2c5f43f6.jpg


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And another pic just cause...
1009141913a_zps5124171f.jpg


So what do you guys think? Anything else I should be aware of? Pointers? I'm getting ready to put a few screws in it to lock it in and pull it back off to burn in the outer wheelhouse.

Bill
 
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That lower door gap is too tight... it looks like you could tweak the last inch of the quarter a little so it's a little straighter. the middle gap seems to open up a little, but that could be the bend not being to precise there. I would think you could do some light hammer work to tweak those areas while the quarter is off the car.
Are you also going to replace the panel above the trunk that goes between the quarters. Hard to tell from the pic, but the window channel area looks like it could use some work. If you do that, be sure you have the trunk lid that you're going to use available for fitment.
 
I know that it's tight on the bottom. I've worked the fire out it and that all I can get. I tried tilting the door, beating in the door post, and using a block of wood on the quarter. It was much worse before that. I'll try some more and see what I can get.

I don't plan to replace the filler panel.

I need to put the rear window in place and see how it fits. What are you seeing in the window channel area that needs work?

Bill
 
Actually Craig, this is the gap I was talking about. It was really tight and the trunk lid would overlap it. I was able to get it close last night.
1009141911_zps2c5f43f6.jpg


Bill
 
Please do not consider this as being critical of your work, lord knows I couldn't do as well..but....
It looks from the angle of the bottom of the door versus the bottom of the quarter panel are NOT in line. At the junction it looks like the quarter panel is sagging. Almost at the point of the jack stand.....is that jack stand really holding up the car by the rocker panels????
Looks like the weight of the car is sagging the rear end past the door.
Optical illusion??? I hope so.
 
that quarter needs some modeling at different places.
Its not the door but the quarter in the lower area.MHO.
What brand is the quarter ?
 
Yes the car is supported by the rocker in the rear. The rear end is loose so I can't support it there. It is also sitting over my pit so... I put a level on the rocker and it's right. I think what your seeing is the same I am. It looks like I should be able to work the bottom corner in a little more. Maybe my block of wood was not allowing me to work just the lower corner.

Bill
 
Is back of my car being pulled down causing the door gap to be excessive at the top? I have a jackstand under the rocker and the rearend is just hanging. Do you guys think I need to hang the shackles and sit the car back on it's rear wheels? I'm thinking this would be a better indication of where I am. Thoughts???

Bill
 
quicker check would be to put a floor jack and a board or something across the rear frame rails and take some load off the rocker to see if anything moves
 
From what I seen on your pics is that you have to support the car in more places.

4 stands on de floor area , 2 in front of the front frame rails and 2 under the rear frames.

MHO :confused:
 
My opinion is that the lowest 1-2" is all that needs a little work. I would first scribe a line indicating where the bend should be. then scribe a parallel line about 2-3" inches to the left. Next remove the quarter and with a metal dolly (not a 2x4) that has a clean 90* edge, place it on the inside of the corner with a little gap and hammer form the bend so it's a bit straighter. I don't think you can straighten it effectively on the car without creating a few wrinkles. Then if there are areas where the gap is too wide, you can weld filler rod along the edge then grind them to get a good even gap. You aren't going to need much, and what is remaining will also serve as a nice hard edge so you don't risk and filler chipping later. A little filler on the jamb side will hide the ridge. I don't have any pics showing it, but pretty sure I had do some of this on my Dynacorn quarters... The area that was worst on mine wasn't the door jambs, the driver side extension. The curve was off enough that I drilled out all the spot welds back there and re arched the quarter so that the extension was a perfect fit.

I did the majority of work on my car with 4 jack-stand places under the pinch weld at each end of the rockers... granted I added convertible inner rockers, but you shouldn't be seeing any sag at the rear of the car without any load on it. That to me would be a huge sign of structural integrity issues, and given the consistency of the gap overall, I don't think you have that issue. To me it is clearly off just at the bottom. A straight edge along the front edge of the quarter should confirm it.

On your window channel... at first I thought the darker areas were heavy pitted rust, but looking at it closer it just looks like sealer, so chances are your channel is good. Not a part I would risk it at all suspect since it's cheap and easy to fix now. The only caveat to the replacement piece is that the body line isn't as crisp. I'm not saying you should change it... just be sure the channel portion is very sound.
 
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