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67 mustang fastback project

1

1967marti

Member
I'm starting up again on my dream car, a 67 FB.
I bought this car in '08 and replace everything from the bottom of the windshield forward. I did this in between deployments in a rental houses 1 car garage :thu . I have since left the military and bought a house with my own garage and can now take my time with her.

The plans are MANY custom chassis strengthening welds and connections, mil-spec connectors throughout, battery and solenoid mounted in trunk, custom 22 gal fuel cell, and a 408W (maybe a turbo or super attached). All of the improvements are going to be "cheap" in cost but not in quality.

I built a jig frame for just under 300 bucks and just this weekend got her mounted and removed all of her parts. The back half of the car is in need of great repair and i hope to document it here for anyone who cares to stay tuned. Please feel free to shoot me a message if you have any other questions or would like me to email info/pictures or anything else that might help.

- matt

The following two pictures are of the car mounted onto the jig, one from the side and the other head-on.
 
Sounds she is is good hands. :thu :thu
Keep up the good work and keep us posted with pics
 
Took off the driver's side Qtr. panel. Along with the tail-light panel, wheel-well and some of the trunk drop-offs...
I was hoping to be able to save more of the trunk and wheel-well parts but because everything is connected to everything they got chopped up pretty good to try and save the big pieces.
 
I noticed something kinda "odd" at the area that the Qtr. panel meets the roof next to the rear window...
It looks kinda dented or damaged. I can't imagine that its supposed to be this way but the only way i can see to repair it properly is to detach the roof enough to get to it. But by looking at it it isn't hurting anything being shaped the way it is. Opinions?
 
Forgot to add this too.
It looks like when the drivers Qtr. panel was replaces (in the 80's) that they also brazed up some rust on this door-jamb area. From what i understand they only reproduce the coupe/conv. piece and i would have to fill-n the spot where the rear window has a slot. The rust has not made it to the backside of the metal and there is room around the braze to put my spot-welds, so should i just leave it as is? Or where can i find a patch for this small area for removal and replacement?
 
"1967marti" said:
I noticed something kinda "odd" at the area that the Qtr. panel meets the roof next to the rear window...
It looks kinda dented or damaged. I can't imagine that its supposed to be this way but the only way i can see to repair it properly is to detach the roof enough to get to it. But by looking at it it isn't hurting anything being shaped the way it is. Opinions?
Click to expand...

Looks like a locating tab. I think it belongs there.
 
"1967marti" said:
Forgot to add this too.
It looks like when the drivers Qtr. panel was replaces (in the 80's) that they also brazed up some rust on this door-jamb area. From what i understand they only reproduce the coupe/conv. piece and i would have to fill-n the spot where the rear window has a slot. The rust has not made it to the backside of the metal and there is room around the braze to put my spot-welds, so should i just leave it as is? Or where can i find a patch for this small area for removal and replacement?
Click to expand...

You would have to make a patch. Is there enough material there to just smooth it out?
 
I figured it was a locating tab or at least a "step" to bring the Qtr. panel up to the same height as the roof panel. It just looks kinda bent and beaten to me... I guess if nothing else i will see how the passenger side looks and go from there.

No, there is nothing there to flatten out. It looks like maybe there was some deep rust pitting and they brazed it up instead of using putty (which i don't mind at all) but i'd prefer it to be all steel if possible. I think that one of the new patches can be cut up and i can get the small portion i need from it. I'd just hate to have to order a panel and have it be worthless to me though.
 
I borrowed this pic from a thread GPR has on a dynacorn body. That area has a pretty big recess originally filled with lead. His son Brian filled theirs with a fabricated filler panel and welded it in.
114.jpg


You other area of concern could be fixed with a peace from a coupe or vert. They have a notch for the window but that corner is there.
this pic is from my buddy's coupe to fastback conversion, we filled the coupe rear quarter notch with a filler panel but you can see that the corner yours is pitted is there on the coupe part
y2y7a4us.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Small update. Cut out the other rear qtr. panel yesterday. Had to melt out a ton of lead... I found the best way was to use a pencil-tip on my small propane torch and heat the lead until it look silvery and use a wire brush to sweep it out.
 
Oh, almost forgot... I found out that the rear qtr. panels Were welded on BEFORE the roof panel was installed. So this means that in order to do a clean "like factory" install of a rear qtr. panel on a fastback you would have to drill out the spot-welds holding on the roof and slide the new panel under before welding both back down. I'm not going to rick tweaking the roof if i can help it so i plan on trimming a little off the rear panels mounting flange and welding that way. I also plan on tig welding a metal patch over the small "valley" like rusty has done on some of his posts.
 
This is how i replaced the front of the car a few years back. I haven't seen any one else do it this way so i thought i'd toss up a picture. I welded the whole front clip together first and then welded it to the car. Everything that is black in the pic is new dynacorn sheet metal.
 
I hope your alignment of everything is good...usually one uses the actual car as a jig.
 
original body panels were bolted back on and everything was perfect after i installed the front clip. I used measurements off the original rusty parts to weld together the torque box and frame rails. that way the lip of the torque boxes acted as a lower hinge to the front of the rocker panels. All that was needed was to use a export brace bar (and some measurements to be sure) to align the top of the front clip. Worked perfect for me anyway... I have a ton more pictures of the tear-down and re-welding if anyone wants to see.
 
More progress today.
Took a wire wheel to the window pillars and found deep pitting, i looked around and i couldn't find any replacements for that area so i guess I'll have to fab them myself out of sheet stock.
Also took the wire wheel to the rear rocker area that is under the fastback vent window... the side that had a batch panel was scarred-up pretty bad and sanded down to almost nothing in some parts... The passengers rear rocker area was VERY pitted, I'm going to replace both sides. Anyone know where i can find the patch panels for these two rear rocker panel areas?

I cut off the old rear frames and mocked up the new rear frame rails. The old rear frame was cut a little long so i can sneak up on the correct cut line with a grinder when i fit the new frame rails up before i weld.
 
So, I was thinking to myself about how it get into the inside of the rocker panels to clean them out and stop the rusting before I soak them in that eastwood's internal frame coating stuff... I was thinking that if I plug up the holes in the rocker panels I could fill them to the brim with a "prep and etch" solution, let it soak for a good couple of hours and then rinse thoroughly. After it has dried for a few hours (with the help of hot air) I can paint the inside. What you think?
 
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