68 Collapsible Column into 67 need experiences

[1965GTFB]

Any one done this? I've done some searching but haven't found much info.
This is with factory PDB, manual trans(going T5 with Hyd. clutch).
Will original 67 PDB pedal work with 68 column?
What mods if any are needed for the bracket at dash?
Do I use all the original 68 brackets to the dash or some or the 67 bracket. I think I am missing the upper half of the dash bracket for the 68 column I have.
The is on an early 67 if that makes a difference.
Thanks

 

[janschutz]

Dash bracket is fine (not 100 % on this), No mods to the dash.

You need the 68-69 pedals since the column is wider.

You need the 68 and up steering box and rag joint.

 

[1965GTFB]

Dash bracket is fine (not 100 % on this), No mods to the dash.

You need the 68-69 pedals since the column is wider.

You need the 68 and up steering box and rag joint.

So just use the 67 bracket?
I had the pedals.
Don't need the box as I'm using a TCP power rack.
Thanks

 

[Ponyman66]

Concur with John's recommendations but would like to add a question for you. What are you doing with the upper part of the column (steering wheel end)? If you stick with the '68 upper collar be aware it's a larger diameter on the steering wheel side. It also attaches to the column in a different location. You can use your '67 collar in order to have the original upper diameter, but you will need to modify the inner tube slightly to accept the original attaching bolt locations. If you're handy with a file it's a simple task that doesn't take too much effort. You'll also need to use the '67 turn signal assembly/wiring.

Regarding the diameter of the '68 outer tube, it's actually the same as a '65, '66 or '67. Where folks have ran into interference with the pedals is the corrugated plastic covering for the collapsible lower section. I had no pedal interference issues on my '66 when I swapped in a '68 column, but I have an automatic so there's only one pedal! Mine is also going to a rack & pinion set up.

There was a good illustrated magazine article on the net which showed where you need to modify the upper tube for the '67 upper collar (they're actually swapping a '68 into a '67!). The site is no longer active, but you may find a similar article on another site. It's a pretty popular swap for folks with 65-67 cars.

 

[1965GTFB]

Concur with John's recommendations but would like to add a question for you. What are you doing with the upper part of the column (steering wheel end)? If you stick with the '68 upper collar be aware it's a larger diameter on the steering wheel side. It also attaches to the column in a different location. You can use your '67 collar in order to have the original upper diameter, but you will need to modify the inner tube slightly to accept the original attaching bolt locations. If you're handy with a file it's a simple task that doesn't take too much effort. You'll also need to use the '67 turn signal assembly/wiring.

Regarding the diameter of the '68 outer tube, it's actually the same as a '65, '66 or '67. Where folks have ran into interference with the pedals is the corrugated plastic covering for the collapsible lower section. I had no pedal interference issues on my '66 when I swapped in a '68 column, but I have an automatic so there's only one pedal! Mine is also going to a rack & pinion set up.

There was a good illustrated magazine article on the net which showed where you need to modify the upper tube for the '67 upper collar (they're actually swapping a '68 into a '67!). The site is no longer active, but you may find a similar article on another site. It's a pretty popular swap for folks with 65-67 cars.

Thanks.
Keeping the 68 collar due to planning on using an aftermarket wheel, but have seen the articles on how to keep the 67 collar. Also using a TCP rack.
One thing I need to sort out is am I missing some parts from the 68 column that hold the bearing in. Got the column years ago with a donor car. No TS parts were in the column. Right now with the new TCP parts for the collapsible in place the upper shaft can be pulled right out of the top of the column, which it seems like if will still do that after the TS switch is in if pulling up on the wheel. Unless the TS switch is what hold the bearing in.

 

[Ponyman66]

I am using a Unisteer rack. In the kit is a lower bearing that's installed in the bottom of the tube (press fit). The lower section of the shaft is trimmed to a prescribed dimension. The bearing is then tapped into place over the lower shaft. Since this does nothing for the floating inner tube I was curious whether it too got trimmed or removed completely. IIRC, it's purpose is to center the lower shaft section (basically). I was told by their tech people it's not even necessary, which makes sense. The upper shaft section is located by the upper column bearing and the lower section is centered with the new bearing. With that said, I don't know how/if the TCP set up addresses this. I know you'll have to cut the lower shaft to remove the rag joint coupler. If there's any issues that arise due to the missing original parts, shoot me a PM.

 

[GypsyR]

You might try the column before you change pedals. A '68 column interfered not at all with my '67's manual brake pedal. I was watching out for it because some people have had interference.