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68 Coupe Daily Driver - Keeping it running and trying to impove it

Thanks Craig, I will let you know if something comes up. I'm waiting for a list from the shop.


Potential upgrades:
Cowl vent covers ( have them)
New windshield
1 wire alternator 160 amp ( have it.)
Fitech fuel system upgrade
Mustang to Fear Pod Dash (Have it)
 
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While the engine is out, I going to rebuild a new 351W with some nice goodies.
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Starting to pull the front out
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Showing the broken Motor Mounts
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Bent Pieces
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Real Bent peices
 
Got in my new 1 wire alternator. Been meaning to upgrade since the AC kills the car sometimes when it kicks on.

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Got in my new 1 wire alternator. Been meaning to upgrade since the AC kills the car sometimes when it kicks on.

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Isn't that an issue with the AC compressor? The only electrical load is the fan and the solenoid for the AC clutch. The fan is on with the heater and I'll bet that doesn't stall the engine. Just saying. I have the same problem so I'm looking at rotary compressors. Nice alternator.
 
I have a nice 7 piston Saden compressor. I believe it the peak amps pulled when it kicks on that are the issue.
 
I'm just not following how the AC stalling the engine is an electrical issue. The compressor load is not going to affect the alternator and coil operation, at least to the point you don't get spark. What's assuredly happening is the physical load of the compressor drive belt is too much on the engine at idle (I'm assuming this is when it dies). Do you not have a fast idle solenoid to engage when the AC is turned on? Modern engine controls do the same via programming to bump up the idle. Back in the day they used a solenoid to mechanically move the throttle idle stop to increase engine RPM at idle. Seems like this is the fix you need.
 
John, I am inclined to agree with Terry. The alternator will also be harder to spin when it is charging and the AC compressor is also drawing a load, the load is on the engine through the drive accessories. It will try to pull down the rpms.
However, If the AC is killing the ignition or spark voltage that would be another problem.
Unless I am missing something?
 
The throttle solenoid is a good idea, but my car came with AC and never had one. As its aged I've had to increase the idle speed in the summer to prevent it from stalling when the compressor kicks on. The idle speed needs to be ridiculously fast now. I had trouble with the AC early on and had the case back cover off for one reason or another. It has always put a big load on the engine and even a tight belt vibrates between the pulleys. As you said the Saden is a piston type; I read somewhere that rotary vane types require less power to turn but I haven't researched further than that. Looks like we could both use some input on the compressor topic.
 
A lot of the car in primer. The cowl covers are installed and smoothed out. The under hood is painted and waiting to cure so it can be flipped to be painted on the top. Block is at the machine shop and should be back early next week for the build. They found one of the valve guides was toast casing a huge oil leak into the #8 cylinder. The new motor will be sick!

Picked up the the valve covers to re-polished since it is coming together fast!


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The shop is moving fast on the motor. They said it will be on the stand for test firing tomorrow. I had to hurry and repolish the valve covers. I did not have time to sand all the scratches out but they came out passable.

Before

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One done! Phone 061.jpg

Sorry but the picture for both was blurry. I am taking the valve covers to the shop today and will take more pictures.
 
Had to get a new intake. The back water passage was real thin due to corrosion that we were afraid it would fail.
 
hey the Power Tour is slated to end in Bowling Green in 2017, it would be cool if you can do it again. Would love to have you guys over to the house. It would be cool to see this thing on the tour again!!!
 
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