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9" Rear Options - '66FB

When I started running the Bluestreaks at the track they have enough flex to them that I cut down the right rear from it hitting the lower inner fender well. I ended up hammering all the inner area so there was no way any edge could cut a tire.

I never had the problem with street tires.
 
I found some local 9" rears on CraigsList for cheap $150 low and $250 high. And, I can get it cleaned up thru a shop. I'll see how much is the labor!
 
"hivewax" said:
thanx! why didn't you step up to 15x8.5" or 15x8"??

The cost of track tires! You can't rotate them when they are diff widths and I chew up front tires :pbj

I could buy my own tire changing equipment and do it myself, but that's a whole nuther level.
 
"hivewax" said:
Opinions on Detroit Locker? Some click, some don't. Supposedly wear tires out faster than other carriers...

Get a True Trac locker, no clutches to wear out and no sound from it.I'm really glad I put one in my car!
 
What's the intended use of the car? It's real easy to spend a ton of money on an overkill setup, but that's not required.

I have about $600 into the 9" 3.50 traction-lok in my '66. I bought a K-code housing at a local swap meet for $300, $250 for the chunk, and added a new clutch pack. I re-used the existing 28 spline axles and drum brakes.

I have a little more in the '69's rear, but not much ... that housing was given to me for free, bought the chunk for $250 on E-bay, and then rebuilt it myself with Richmond gears and Timken bearings. I used Superior 31 spline axles. All-in-all I think I have about $700 into a completely rebuild 3.89 9" 4-pinion 31 spline traction-lok.

I have beat the crap out of both rears!
 
I'm not knowledgable on rear assembly. I couldn't even finish removing the axles and center section out the 8" to see the damage. Stripped the seized nuts. I'm thinking just don't waste my time with it and buy a bolt on with no hassles.
 
I'm doing a CAD drawing of all the dimensions to the rear end and different wheel setups with wheelhousing clearance. I took a tape-measure to the car. Some numbers are not that accurate. I'll post the drawing when I can get the chance. This forum doesn't come on from home laptop most of the time... Works fine at work. Then, maybe some can compare numbers with mine.
 
well, i went to Harbor Freight and bought a 3/8" breaker bar & bolt/nut remover set. i finally took the axles off and the center section. i think the pinion gear shaft broke inside the pinion retainer casing. as i turn the flange, there's a 0.5" play and the gears don't move. i'll remove the pinion retainer casing and take a picture.

Is this an easy fix DIY??
 
here's a photo
156_23_06_09_6_02_57.jpg


if i keep this 8" rear, the best option i believe is the TJ guy from eBay who has 8" center sections for $855 minimum... buying the pinion gears and the installation kit with labor would be about even.

now, if i go 9" big bearing, the only thing i see me having trouble is converting to rear disc brakes. i have the original GT setup - front discs and rear drums.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i push the car on the streets pretty hard. at the light, i like to get in front of everybody... maybe that is why the 8" broke. i'm leaning towards new 9".
 
Seems like it would take a lot more than playing on the street to do that. I am always hard off the lights with mine, so far nothing like that.
 
no slicks. BFG T/A Radials on orig '66 14x6" GT steel style wheels.

If this is the only setup this car has ever seen, there's no way that pinion gear should have sheared like that. It must have been abused from a previous owner?

You can get a replacement center section (with TracLoc) for a LOT cheaper than $800. You should be able to find something in the $2-300 range.
 
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