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Anyone have one of these I can borrow?

blu67

blu67

Well-Known Member
I need to change both of the front control arm bushings on my '02 Honda and the loan-a-tool ball joint separator wouldn't work on my application. (I tried and tried and tried...) The online info I found on how to do the job showed this separator (or one similar) that would do the trick. I really hate buying some tools that really are so specific to certain applications especially when I don't plan on keeping the car for too much longer. (I do need to change the bushing though as it is way overdue)
Anyone have one I can borrow and I'll cover all shipping costs? See below.
THX
http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W83022-Bal ... B002KS17N4
 
Just use a BFH and smack the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. 2 or 3 hits and the pop right out. No special tools needed.
 
"RyanG85" said:
Just use a BFH and smack the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. 2 or 3 hits and the pop right out. No special tools needed.
Click to expand...

sounds a little too S&M to me. :roll
 
"blu67" said:
I need to change both of the front control arm bushings on my '02 Honda and the loan-a-tool ball joint separator wouldn't work on my application.
Click to expand...

Why would you use a ball joint seperator to change control arm bushings? Bushings are usually pressed out using a press or a vice with tubes / socket spacers mated to the outer shell of the bushing, pushing the center sleeve of the bushing won't do a darn thing.... I don't see how a traditional ball joint seperator would even come close to working.

Or did you mean ball joints and not bushings?
 
"stangg" said:
Why would you use a ball joint seperator to change control arm bushings? Bushings are usually pressed out using a press or a vice with tubes / socket spacers mated to the outer shell of the bushing, pushing the center sleeve of the bushing won't do a darn thing.... I don't see how a traditional ball joint seperator would even come close to working.

Or did you mean ball joints and not bushings?
Click to expand...
I'm guessing he wants to remove the lower control arm to press the bushings out. Therefore the ball joint needs to be separated.
 
Yes, yes...sorry....Me not rite so good...
Yes, I need to remove the lower control arm to take to a machine shop to press out/in the bushings...thus, the ball joint has to be separated...
I would try with a BFH but I worry about damaging the control arm. It has never been removed as far as I know so that ball joint may be in there something good...
 
Trust me, I do it everyday for a living... You don't want to hit the control arm, just the knuckle where the shaft of the ball joint go through unless the ball joint is mounted to the knuckle you do have to hit the control arm. It can take it..
 
I have a 'pickle fork' that you seek, but I won't be able to get it to you until 2/18 as I'm on Holiday in Kauai...
 
Pickle fork will destroy the boot and is hard on the joint too. They are only good if you are replacing the part you are forking...
 
"RyanG85" said:
Pickle fork will destroy the boot and is hard on the joint too. They are only good if you are replacing the part you are forking...
Click to expand...

+ 1
 
Though I agree with what's already been said I do have these if you want to borrow one.


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Last edited by a moderator:
I would NOT use a "pickle fork" on it unless I was also planning on replacing the ball joint too. Not only do such forks tear the boot, I have seen them mar and damage the actual joint.
I personally use the hammer shock method. In addition, on a Honda you really want to have a second person. The weight of the steering knuckle assembly rests on the ball joint. So when you hit the arm, nothing may happen or at least appear to happen. If your helper is lifting up by the brake rotor while you hit when it pops loose it will be immediately evident. You have to unbolt the lower end of the strut before doing this. When the joint pops loose the knuckle assembly can easily be lifted out of the lower arm by even a smallish person.
I bring this up because on the majority of cars the aid to popping the lower joint is to use a pry bar to apply downwards pressure on the lower arm while hitting the arm (or knuckle, depending). This method doesn't work that well with Honda's design. Speaking of which, unless the car has a lot of rust damage, the joint should pop pretty easily with just a couple of well placed and solid hits. As opposed to some other vehicles which can be devilish.
 
"RyanG85" said:
Trust me, I do it everyday for a living... You don't want to hit the control arm, just the knuckle where the shaft of the ball joint go through unless the ball joint is mounted to the knuckle you do have to hit the control arm. It can take it..
Click to expand...

Looks like the ball joint goes down through the knuckle with the castle nut under the LCA. My hammer must not have been big enough as it didn't pop off. Got a new 3 lb. hammer today to try to pop the ball joint tomorrow. I'm off for the holiday so it should be a good day to do it...
 
I was curious about that ball joint arrangement and just watched this you tube video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhngdPego-k

He tried the hammer method and is didn't work for him. At about the 2:20 mark, he mentions he got the tool you were looking for at Harbor Frieght for $20... (On sale now for 16.99). Usually tools like this from HF are junk, but it worked for him. You might want to try a combined process of using that tool to pre load the stud, then hammer the side of the mount to jar it enough to pop.
 
Sweet!
I did look at HF online and didn't see it but I should go to my local store and get one. Might just be the easiest way..along with a fee choice whacks for good measure...;-)
 
Yep. Found it online with a little creativity...
Picked one up at my local store. Wasn't able to get to it today...maybe next weekend. It all has to correspond to the machinists schedule too...
 
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