Fst Blk
Well-Known Member
What is the width of those wheels on the front?
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burnout289's 67 coupe project
- Thread starter burnout289
- Start date
burnout289
Member
That's a square setup, all 17x9 w/ 235/45. Offset is +28 so I'm using a 1.5" spacer up front and a 1" spacer with I think 1/8" added in the rear. Definitely need to do a little work in front, when strapped down to the trailer, I got to see how tight it was. Need some more negative camber gain on compression and will roll the lip a bit more.
I should add, the big front spacer was needed to clear the upper control arm. 1-1/8" would not cut it. Pretty sure 1-1/4" didn't either. I haven't really seen anyone putting 9" wheels up front and I wanted to see what the big deal is, and I don't want to go staggered. Plus, I had them laying around anyway.
I should add, the big front spacer was needed to clear the upper control arm. 1-1/8" would not cut it. Pretty sure 1-1/4" didn't either. I haven't really seen anyone putting 9" wheels up front and I wanted to see what the big deal is, and I don't want to go staggered. Plus, I had them laying around anyway.
Fst Blk
Well-Known Member
Awesome. Interested in how it comes out. I want to go 9 inches up front also. I've got 8 inches now with a 1.5 spacer so I know what your up against. My 17x8s look like they will rub.
JRANGER
Active Member
BIll,
Use a 1" spacer instead and you will be fine. Im running 1" all around on my 17/8 with 215/45 in front and 245/45 i rear. Clears and no rubbing...Dont know about 9" unless you go wide body kit and cut some fender away
Use a 1" spacer instead and you will be fine. Im running 1" all around on my 17/8 with 215/45 in front and 245/45 i rear. Clears and no rubbing...Dont know about 9" unless you go wide body kit and cut some fender away
burnout289
Member
I'm pretty sure if I drop the upper control arm and dial in some static negative camber, it'll tuck nicely in the fender. It just depends on the backspacing / offset. Or some fancy tubular control arms that have a little more clearance.
And it looks like an 18" wheel might clear the stamped lip on the control arm, but I never actually measured it.
And it looks like an 18" wheel might clear the stamped lip on the control arm, but I never actually measured it.
burnout289
Member
Some goodies arrived today.
Another box will come tomorrow...not sure when the Stewart water pump will get here, it's a drop-ship with no tracking info.
Another box will come tomorrow...not sure when the Stewart water pump will get here, it's a drop-ship with no tracking info.
burnout289
Member
I went with the fan controller that switches on at 195F, off at 175F. Couldn't really find much info on which to go with, but they also had a 185/165. Figured I'd use the one with my thermostat temp in the middle (180F).
Funny thing...Powemaster Alt is sold as 140A. On the box it says 150A. Papers say the 140A come with a new battery output cable, but nothing was in the box besides the alt and bolt.
Funny thing...Powemaster Alt is sold as 140A. On the box it says 150A. Papers say the 140A come with a new battery output cable, but nothing was in the box besides the alt and bolt.
burnout289
Member
New Grab-A-Track swaybar looks great, I love the wrinkle finish. A little disappointed, though...I had asked for a joke on the box but was not accomodated. I like shops with a sense of humor. The cat has no opinion on the matter. His name is Titus, by the way.
JRANGER
Active Member
lol, I just ordered a front end set from Mustang plus. I have grab a trac 4.5 std eye leafs in rear and now ill have the hole front kit minus the sway bar for now. I did order roller perches though. Have you checked those out? Cant remember if you mentioned that? They are suppose to be awesome for handling
burnout289
Member
I'd love to see pics of how your car sits after those leafs. I am thinking the same thing but mid-eye.
For the front, I think my standards have gotten too high. Once I saw Street or Track's front coilover suspension, I knew nothing else would do. I have read great things about the roller perches and I know these cars can get amazing handling with stock-type geometry, but here's my thinking...
1) I replaced pretty much every front suspension piece back when I was driving it around back in 99-03. I have trouble buying the same thing over again if there's something better available. I just had to replace my Holley fuel pump and bought the same one only because I don't think I'll ever need more than 110gph mechanical. If it ever changes again, it'll be for EFI. Hah, almost bought the Edelbrock just to make it different, but it cost more.
2) My daily driver is basically (as you well know) a go-kart with a roof and a "back seat." I really want the best handling I can afford while staying moderately comfortable on crappy Southern CA streets. The longer shock and improved motion ration should make a nice compromise.
Will I ever go to a track? I would like to, but that's not the end goal. I want every bit of modern improvements that I can get without hacking it all to pieces. Example: you'll never see me cut off the shock towers, but I'm not opposed to notching them.
JRANGER
Active Member
burnout289
Member
Thanks for the pics! Get those fronts installed and let's see how it looks.
67resto-coupe
Member
Hey, nice '67! I'm just finishing up my '67 notch project. Here are a few pics. I didn't have the chance to fully read all the prior pages on your build, but it sounds like ours are leaning towards handling. I've stayed with mainly a modified stock setup, but hope to go to the coil over stuff in the future. Keep it up. My project started in '99 and is finally seeing the finish-line.
Attachments
burnout289
Member
Heh, you've come a lot farther! I bought my car in '99 but drive it daily until sometime in '03 when I picked up an Integra for DD duty. I guess I can say I haven't really "started" this project until now.
Your car looks amazing, I'd love to see more pics as it goes. Are those holes for Aerocatch latches? I'd be interested to see how that turns out, I have the old school pin-style and am not crazy about it anymore. Also, what front valance is that? Or is it modified stock sheet metal?
Your car looks amazing, I'd love to see more pics as it goes. Are those holes for Aerocatch latches? I'd be interested to see how that turns out, I have the old school pin-style and am not crazy about it anymore. Also, what front valance is that? Or is it modified stock sheet metal?
burnout289
Member
I brought all of my new parts to the shop tonight and got a little work done. I finished removing the old oil pan gasket. I never want to do that again. Also installed the new oil filter and fuel pump. The fittings I swapped to the new pump are for 3/8" hose, but everything else (lines, filter, carb) are 5/16". I must have just mashed a 5/16" hose on before, I really don't recall, but I'm going to pick up some new fittings. Just not exactly sure what size NPT fittings these are. You measure the inside, right? Gotta dig out the calipers for that. I also need to fine something to plug the intake manifold where the heater elbow goes. That thing is half gone and is fused to the adapter...so I'm not really sure what to use to plug it (Performer 289).
Anyway, my buddy's apprentice needed something to do, so he got to wire wheel and blast the alternator bracket and oil pan. That blast cabinet is my favorite thing. I'll shoot the oil pan with some satin or gloss black, still debating about the bracket. I have some "aluminum" colored spray pain that I'll use for the thermostat housing and water pump, maybe I'll do the bracket with that as well.
Once the pan is back on, I can replace the starter (will probably clean and paint this also) and install the beefy new swaybar and endlinks. The water pump should arrive on Monday, so I'll get that painted and once it's on I can really get most everything back together. Still need to send out the radiator for testing/overhaul. I'm hoping it can just be flushed and I don't need a new core, but once that's decided I can figure out a mounting solution for the SPAL fan. Can't believe they don't even come with generic brackets. They just wanna get you every $tep of the way. Well, screw that, we will likely just make a custom shroud. Hell, it's a metalworking shop...
Anyway, my buddy's apprentice needed something to do, so he got to wire wheel and blast the alternator bracket and oil pan. That blast cabinet is my favorite thing. I'll shoot the oil pan with some satin or gloss black, still debating about the bracket. I have some "aluminum" colored spray pain that I'll use for the thermostat housing and water pump, maybe I'll do the bracket with that as well.
Once the pan is back on, I can replace the starter (will probably clean and paint this also) and install the beefy new swaybar and endlinks. The water pump should arrive on Monday, so I'll get that painted and once it's on I can really get most everything back together. Still need to send out the radiator for testing/overhaul. I'm hoping it can just be flushed and I don't need a new core, but once that's decided I can figure out a mounting solution for the SPAL fan. Can't believe they don't even come with generic brackets. They just wanna get you every $tep of the way. Well, screw that, we will likely just make a custom shroud. Hell, it's a metalworking shop...
Some advise
1. Take the time to properly remove that old manifold fitting and replace it or use a correctly sized plug. Don't "half-ass" stuff like this because as though it may seem small and insignificant you will regret it later. Do it right now while stuff is apart.
2. Stay away from common spray paint. It will not hold up and will look like crap very soon. Find yourself a place that does powder coating and take all your brackets and such to them. Gather it up into a big lot as it saves cash that way versus a piece or two at a time. If you do have to use rattle can at least invest in stuff made for the application. VHT engine paint will hold up much better as it is made for the heat and chemical abuse those parts will see.
Oh, the fitting size for that new pump is 3/8" NPT,
1. Take the time to properly remove that old manifold fitting and replace it or use a correctly sized plug. Don't "half-ass" stuff like this because as though it may seem small and insignificant you will regret it later. Do it right now while stuff is apart.
2. Stay away from common spray paint. It will not hold up and will look like crap very soon. Find yourself a place that does powder coating and take all your brackets and such to them. Gather it up into a big lot as it saves cash that way versus a piece or two at a time. If you do have to use rattle can at least invest in stuff made for the application. VHT engine paint will hold up much better as it is made for the heat and chemical abuse those parts will see.
Oh, the fitting size for that new pump is 3/8" NPT,
burnout289
Member
Thanks for the response. I did remove the heater hose elbow, no way would I leave that rotten thing in there after seeing it. I just don't know the size of the hole on the manifold so that I can plug it.
I totally agree with powder coating. Most of this is somewhat temporary. There's a powder coater a couple of doors down from the shop, but I want to wait on that until I have a better idea of color scheme. It's easy (and cheap) to get rid of paint and do it over later. I use rattle can engine bay paint. I know it's not the most durable, but a lot of parts are going to get replaced at some point anyway.
As for the fuel pump fittings, I just checked with calipers and am confused. One is 7/16" and the other is 13/64". I thought the ID determines what size NPT it is.
I totally agree with powder coating. Most of this is somewhat temporary. There's a powder coater a couple of doors down from the shop, but I want to wait on that until I have a better idea of color scheme. It's easy (and cheap) to get rid of paint and do it over later. I use rattle can engine bay paint. I know it's not the most durable, but a lot of parts are going to get replaced at some point anyway.
As for the fuel pump fittings, I just checked with calipers and am confused. One is 7/16" and the other is 13/64". I thought the ID determines what size NPT it is.
The pump shown in your picture is the basic Holley lots of guys use. Inlet and outlet are 3/8" NPT. No way a port on a fuel pump is 13/64" unless you are working on a piece of lawn mowing equipment!
https://www.holley.com/products/fue...s/carbureted_mechanical_pumps/parts/12-289-11
The hole on your manifold is likely 1/2" NPT. Heater fittings are 1/2" NPT or 3/8" NPT.
I get what you are saying about temporary and cheap but in reality those things are neither. The time spent to go back and remove, strip and do over is costly and quite frankly most don't go back and do it. Trying to repaint an engine bay with the engine and wiring and such in place NEVER turn out as well as it could had it been done right the first time. Just trying to give you some learned advice.
https://www.holley.com/products/fue...s/carbureted_mechanical_pumps/parts/12-289-11
The hole on your manifold is likely 1/2" NPT. Heater fittings are 1/2" NPT or 3/8" NPT.
I get what you are saying about temporary and cheap but in reality those things are neither. The time spent to go back and remove, strip and do over is costly and quite frankly most don't go back and do it. Trying to repaint an engine bay with the engine and wiring and such in place NEVER turn out as well as it could had it been done right the first time. Just trying to give you some learned advice.
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burnout289
Member
Thanks for advice and the detail, yes that's the exact pump I have. I thought the 3/8" measurement was just for the hose barb. I'll see what I can find locally.
burnout289
Member
3/8" NPT was too small to screw into the fuel pump. 1/2" is too big. I tested the fittings I have on both sizes in the intake manifold (1/2 = heater elbow hole, 3/8 = water temp sender). Went to three stores yesterday and could not find a match for these threads that uses a 5/16" hose nipple. And I don't see any NPT threads between these two sizes.
This seems to be the only solution I can find...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/15946/10002/-1
This seems to be the only solution I can find...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/15946/10002/-1