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Cooling issues.....

Reverse the radiator, so that the outlets are pointing forward, and route the hoses accordingly? ;D
 
Doing that, he would then reverse the pusher/puller options he had and I believe he would be totally confused and end up with water running into the power steering lines.

To save money, he could just loop the upper and lower hoses together. No more need for the radiator or fans.....opens up better air flow then also.
 
just loop the upper and lower hoses together

With the upper and lower hoses running into the passenger side tank of the crossflow radiator, in effect, this is exactly what my modification to the radiator caused... a looped system bypassing the cooling properties of the tubes/fins. No wonder the damn engine was running hot!

Do we have a "doofus" award over here? I can't think of anything dumber than this.... but maybe it just hasn't dawned on me yet...
 
While I'm waiting for you guys that have never made a mistake before to finish reading my novella and answer it's questions, I have another question.....

While the POS radiator is out, should I open up the 18" stock opening of the radiator support to take full advantage of the 25.5" wide new radiator? I'm thinking better now, than later.
 
Dang, why aren't the posts taking?

again
doofus, yes
MB, not responsible
cutting opening, up to you-I never tell someone to cut their car
fans, try mech w/o pusher and see what happens/works-send new one back, doesn't use new one
port, no drill on intake-sleeve or existing

let's see if this one posts up
 
So what are you waiting for, cut man, cut.

About never doing stupid things, some of us just speak lightly about them......my biggie a few years ago cost one door and fender but I ain't talking.
 
It's fixed. It's funny that when I installed a radiator that was actually flowing coolant through it and not just through one side tank... boy, the engine sure runs a lot cooler!

The radiator is a Fluidyne HP series AL double tubed unit. The darn Summit website had the dimensions loaded wrong... they stated that the overall height was 17.245"..... NOT! It was 19.5.... just like every other '93 Mustang radiator. I had to fab some mounts for it. The lower ones took the longest amount of time to fab as I had to bend up some 1/8" mild steel to make a couple "cradles". Since they were steel, they needed to be painted. I got them bent up, trial fitted, drilled to bolt onto the radiator support and radiator, and then painted them. A couple days later, after the paint had thoroughly dried, I rounded up some new SS hardware at the local Ace store and got the radiator installed. The top mounts were a LOT simpler. Three strips of AL screwed to the rad support and the lip on the top of the radiator. The radiator is solidly mounted.

On the lower hose I installed a joint pipe with a pre-tapped fitting for an additional sending unit. The engines lower intake has only one usable port for a sending unit... and it's currently being used for the electric pusher fans T-stat controlled switch (190 on/175 off). I screwed up when I left the fan sender installed in the intake and routed the gauge sender to the lower radiator hose. I should have reversed these two sending units and I will the next time the coolant is drained. With the gauge sender mounted in the lower hose, I'm not really monitoring water temperature until the thermostat opens and water starts flowing through the lower hose.

Here's some pictures.....

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3_30_08_08_6_46_04_3.JPG



3_30_08_08_6_47_39_1.JPG
 
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Nice job Dave. We all make mistakes and engineering is all about trial and error. Your current system looks real nice and neat.
 
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