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Cylinder head bolts

O

opentrackerSteve

Guest
I've got the heads on the engine and busted two head bolts. I apparently didn't use enough oil. Can someone give me some guidance on putting the head bolts in (I am using ARP bolts with washers and the flange washers for alum heads. Do I need to apply oil liberally to all surfaces?
 
I presume you used new bolts.
Soak the bolts in an oilbath.
Clean up the threads in the block.
Use a good and calibrated torquewrench.

Just my thoughts here.
 
Yes, you should have all surfaces lubricated. Also, be sure to follow proper sequence in both bolt position as well as stepped torque levels.

I'm guessing that you didn't clean the block threads with a good tap as to why the breakage.
 
The block threads are good but I'll check them again. I didn't oil the bolts and spacers / washers. I suspect that is why they snapped.
 
I got the pass side torqued down no issues after I used some oil and moly lube. Measured the pushrod length Engine.JPG and it looks like the stock pushrods will work just right. I am heading to Hawaiian Racing to ppick up a set of pushrods. I believe I'[ll have everything to put the motor back together.

here's a picture of it in process.
 
Still have a long list of things to do.

1) install exhaust rocker arms
2) re-check all rocker arms
3)bolt up headers
4) install intake manifold
5) conduct compression test
6) install valve covers
7) install air cond compressor and alternator
8) install wiring
9) install radiator and fan
10) install water
11) install spark plugs and spark plug wires
12) start engine

I doubt I'll get that all done tomorrow, but I'm taking Thu n Fri off
 
Well, Sunday was a big challenge for me. I only got #s 1 and 2 done.

I snapped another head bolt and stopped to revisit what in the hell was happening. Upon close inspection of my torque wrench, I learned that the handle was slipping up and displaying a false reading (set to 70 ft lbs and display was actually at 110 ft lbs!)

After pulling the driver's side head and replacing the broken bolt, I mindfuly re-torqued the bolts
and proceeded to set up the Lunati roller rocker arms. I finished that late last night and retired for the evening (gosh, I am surely sore from that - I'm getting old!)

I also did place a thin bead of high temp RTV on the copper head gaskets on both sides. I also reviewed my punch list and it's still valid.

I might do someworkon it tonight. I'm leaving work on time as i'm a little fed up with the drama that's happening here at he workplace.

In retorquing the head bolts (needed to do the long bolts to 80 ft lbs), I broke another bolt!
1) install exhaust rocker arms - done
2) re-check all rocker arms - done
3) bolt up headers
4) install intake manifold
5) conduct compression test
6) install valve covers
7) install air cond compressor and alternator
8) install wiring
9) install radiator and fan
10) install water
11) install spark plugs and spark plug wires
12) start engine
 
Damn, never heard of so many head bolts breaking!!

Me too! I was confounded and was getting really frustrated as I had spent a LOT of time being extra careful, and lo and behold another one broke!

I am going to mount all three of them on a plaque once I'm done and put it up in my 'hall of shame'.... I am going to put the flippin' torque wrench on the plaque too!
 
Too late to be of use to Steve but a word of advice to anyone reading this thread. Not only should you invest in a decent torque wrench but also take care of it. Biggest fail people have is not "zeroing" out the wrench when not in use (click style tool). Failing to do so will cause it to get out of adjustment quickly. Get in the habit from the start to do this. Professional builders also routinely have their wrenches calibrated to ensure accurate operation.
 
Thanks for the reply. I took that tool for granted and need to replace it....
 
Thanks for the reply. I took that tool for granted and need to replace it....
Steve,

Believe it our not, I picked up one from Harbor Freight that is VERY accurate. I can't vouch for how it will do over time but it was dead nuts on with my other torque wrenches that are brand name and cost a hell of a lot more.
 
One can also "calibrate" them at home fairly easily. Put the ratchet square drive in a vise with the handle out 90*. Get a few gallon water or milk jugs and fill them (8 pounds per gallon) and string them up with some good line. Wrap the line over the torque wrench handle at a measured distance from the center of the square drive and multiply the weight by distance. Then slowly increase the setting on the wrench until it clicks and compare the reading to your measurement. It's good to 2-3 pounds, good enough when you're in the 25-100 ft-pound range. A similar technique for smaller torque wrenches can be used, but then you actually need to weigh your weights.

I called around for a true calibration of my torque wrenches and the cost was prohibitive in my opinion. All I needed to know if it was close to being accurate, not within 0.1%.
 
If you've ever seen (or actually done) a calibration on a click style torque wrench you'd appreciate why it costs so much. It's also a good reason to treat them well.

I was trained how at the Snap-On repair facility outside of Atlanta back in the late 80's. A basic explanation of how a click type wrench works for those who don't know may help understand the proper care and storage of one.
If you look at the handle near the ratchet end you'll see a pin which passed through and holds the ratchet end to the tube. It also serves as the pivot for the ratchet end. Inside the tube running from the handle is a threaded shaft with a spring located at the end. The end of the ratchet head and the end of the shaft are both notched. A calibration block sits in between the notches and sort or rocks (for lack of better explanation), as the rachet pivots. It's also spring loaded. That loading is the torque you dial in which turns the shaft, increasing the load on the spring through compression and resultant increased pressure on that cal. block. What you're actually feeling with the "click" is the block kicking off center. When the wrench is calibrated the spring and block (which come both in various lengths), are replaced to obtain a combination which gives an accurate reading. It can take MANY attempts to get the combo correct, with each attempt requiring disassembly and reassembly of the wrench each time! When the Snap-On facility had to calibrate NASA's wrenches we were told they had to be within a 1% tolerance!

With that said here's a few tips:
-If you drop the wrench, have it's calibration checked. The shock of impact can actually chip or shatter the calibration block inside.
-As stated, store them with all pressure taken off (0 lbs of torque on the handle). Storing them with torque dialed in keeps the spring compressed and can cause it stay in more of a compressed state throwing off the cal.
-Adding extensions changes what the actual torque at the fastener due to leverage changes. The wrench is calibrated directly at the square drive. Adding a long extension changes the leverage applied and can result in the fastener with less torque than dialed in. Conversely, something sticking straight out from the drive end causes more torque to be actually applied due to added leverage.

Sorry to ramble but I take the care and feeding of my torque wrenches pretty serious. It (they) are the single type of tool I freely admit are the only one I actually use only as designed and nothing else. Finally, make sure those dial locks work! :rolleyes:
 
new wrench in hand from Harbor Freight. Care is required (as I have done with the previous one - you guys implying I have not done so are not correct). 30+ years for a torque wrench is a good run.

Thought I'd work on the car tonight but decided not to and help my son with his tax return.... Maybe he'll tip me!

More to come....
 
Steve sorry if you took my comments as implying you didn't take care of your torque wrench. My comments were general in nature and offered out to anyone reading the thread.....other than the jab about the locking collar!;)
 
Don't forget to use lubricant on the threads AND lubricant under the bolt head flange and both sides of any washers used. I have read tech articles that assert that the lubricant under the bolt head flange is more vital than the thread lube.

I always use ARP's thread lubricant. Supposedly it is the most specific lubricant for proper torque values.
 
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