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Dearching leaf springs?
- Thread starter miketyler
- Start date
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
been watching this with alot of interest. been wanting to do the same thing, but can't find any spring shops here willing to do the procedure (they all want to sell me new springs though..) i currently have homemade 2" rear blocks installed to get my height down. if you can, post up the measurement from the hub centerline to fender lip. that will give a more universal comparison for those with different tire sizes. i'm running 285/40's which are within 1/4" in diameter of the 315/35's, but just a bit narower on 9.5" rims.
Wow - that looks pretty good for just 2" blocks. Will get those dims today.
I meant to say, the pics are with my modified springs and 2" drop blocks. Once installed and loaded, they are nearly straight but surprisingly still have a lot of spring action. Admittedly, I did get about 1/8" height variation between the springs after dearch. I will probably use a shim plate or shave the block for the lower side. I am running an SSBC rear disc conversion and that possibly has increased my trac width. Also, I will have to run 1/4 spacer on both sides to get the tire away from the spring. This will necessitate the need to roll (or even cut and re-tack) the top 8-10" of quarter fender lip. Man, this is some work.
While I like the height it is at, am not sure how driveable the car will be. I only have 1-1.5" off the bump stop. I bounce the hell out of it and cant get it to hit though. Maybe a different story when I add the tank, gas, and interior. Also not sure how much swing/sway I will get with no rear sway bar. Would really like to retain my sway bar but the factory configuration places the end links outboard of the springs and that fouls the wheels immediately. My Cuda has a larger factory rear sway bar and it's end links are mounted on top of and in the in the center of the leaf spring safely clearing the wheel assembly. Has anyone modifed their sway bar to keep it all under the car?
I meant to say, the pics are with my modified springs and 2" drop blocks. Once installed and loaded, they are nearly straight but surprisingly still have a lot of spring action. Admittedly, I did get about 1/8" height variation between the springs after dearch. I will probably use a shim plate or shave the block for the lower side. I am running an SSBC rear disc conversion and that possibly has increased my trac width. Also, I will have to run 1/4 spacer on both sides to get the tire away from the spring. This will necessitate the need to roll (or even cut and re-tack) the top 8-10" of quarter fender lip. Man, this is some work.
While I like the height it is at, am not sure how driveable the car will be. I only have 1-1.5" off the bump stop. I bounce the hell out of it and cant get it to hit though. Maybe a different story when I add the tank, gas, and interior. Also not sure how much swing/sway I will get with no rear sway bar. Would really like to retain my sway bar but the factory configuration places the end links outboard of the springs and that fouls the wheels immediately. My Cuda has a larger factory rear sway bar and it's end links are mounted on top of and in the in the center of the leaf spring safely clearing the wheel assembly. Has anyone modifed their sway bar to keep it all under the car?
I think I mentioned this before, but look into the aftermarket style of sway bars. From the looks of them it appears they clamp brackets to the leaf springs, in which the end links hook to. Hard to tell from the parts picture and not have one of everything installed. Maybe others here have an aftermarket rear bar installed.
I plan on fabricating either a watts or a panhard rod setup for my rear to keep everything centered. You'll find that with 315's you will rub when going around the twisties at their rated speed limit. I'm also reworking the front lower inner corners of the wheelhouse to clearance it a bit. This is the main location of my rubbing incidences.
Wow, so that was with dearching AND 2" blocks?? Jeremy's car is low in the weeds, maybe he could chime in on if he just used lowering blocks or what. He has a pic on that wheel thread you put together Mike.
I plan on fabricating either a watts or a panhard rod setup for my rear to keep everything centered. You'll find that with 315's you will rub when going around the twisties at their rated speed limit. I'm also reworking the front lower inner corners of the wheelhouse to clearance it a bit. This is the main location of my rubbing incidences.
Wow, so that was with dearching AND 2" blocks?? Jeremy's car is low in the weeds, maybe he could chime in on if he just used lowering blocks or what. He has a pic on that wheel thread you put together Mike.
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
My car is 67 but I have Grab-A-Track standard eye 5 leaf rear springs. No lowering blocks. It sits pretty low as is. The springs settled but this is about where it sits with just twp people in the car. Lower if I have some in back, are you worried it will settle more over time and be "too" low?
Opentracker
Active Member
I've done a lot of mods to sway bars to make them work. I've even cold bent them to get a little different shape or welded blocks on the ends for rod ends. Just figure out what shape you need and go for it. There are two kinds on the market. One mounts to the rear end with the end links going to the frame ( Ha- Ha - - Frame ) and the other mounts to the frame with the end links going to the rear end.
Just for reference, this car is very low and has no lowering blocks. I'm about 1.5" off the bump stop and it does hit it on but not enough to be a problem.
The orange car when I got it. No lowering blocks, just the mod done to the leaf springs.
A good way to get the rear end to not move around and free up the bind is to use the Del-alum leaf spring bushing kit from Global West. The kit also lessens the need for a rear sway bar.
Just for reference, this car is very low and has no lowering blocks. I'm about 1.5" off the bump stop and it does hit it on but not enough to be a problem.
The orange car when I got it. No lowering blocks, just the mod done to the leaf springs.
A good way to get the rear end to not move around and free up the bind is to use the Del-alum leaf spring bushing kit from Global West. The kit also lessens the need for a rear sway bar.
Last edited by a moderator:
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
I have those!
Opentracker
Active Member
"tarafied1" said:
Me too, they work good, like haveing roller suspension on the back.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hmmmm, may have have to try them out.
All looks good. I went ahead and cut the springs (yeah, I know) and leveled the rockers. The front test wheels were TT 2's and were 17x8 with 4.75" BS. The tires are 275/40-17. With a fender installed it looked good with plenty of clearance. Will see if I can get some pics up tomorrow. I dont know that I will go with 275's but the wheels are standard Mustang fitment so I think I am ready to order.
Here's a pic with overall stance with the car lowered sitting on my Back to the Future wheels.
I dont know about the springs. Once cut, they are much shorter than previous. When you raise the car up, they become loose and float around and no longer stay centered in the top of the shock tower. As such, you have to hold them centered as the weight is lowered on them. I dont like it already. I dont know if one could fabricate a sleeve or funnel and attach to the underside of the shock tower that would help guide the spring back into the tower so it would self-center.
I dont know about the springs. Once cut, they are much shorter than previous. When you raise the car up, they become loose and float around and no longer stay centered in the top of the shock tower. As such, you have to hold them centered as the weight is lowered on them. I dont like it already. I dont know if one could fabricate a sleeve or funnel and attach to the underside of the shock tower that would help guide the spring back into the tower so it would self-center.