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Explorer 8.8 build DIY COMPLETE!!!

yes indeed, i just found a rear end for 100 bux..now i just got to find another short axle to be good..where did you find another short axle for that inexpensive?
 
"fordrule" said:
yes indeed, i just found a rear end for 100 bux..now i just got to find another short axle to be good..where did you find another short axle for that inexpensive?
Click to expand...

Pick n pull formerly pull a part, took apart the rear and just took the short side axle out.
 
Wanted to add how i tackled the little parking brake problem. I took the parking brake cables with the rear when i bought it so i cut the little fittings off the explorers cables, keep the springs they will be used and cut a slit down the center of it a little bit with a 3" cut off wheel.
fbsuspension77.jpg

Cut off the old drum fittings from the stangs parking cable, Spring first then slip that puppy in that slit and weld part way up the slit DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY. welding the cable causes it to fatigue and break when twisted bent, really moved in anyway and the cable will start to split. Doing it half way insures the cable that is moved around will not split and break.
fbsuspension78.jpg

There ya have it
fbsuspension79.jpg


And for those that dont wanna spend the time i found these guys
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Brake-Clevis-for-Ford-Explorer-and-Wilwood,37008.html
 
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"Federico Garza" said:
Nice work, mind sharing what you used to weld the tubes to the center section TIG/MIG or Arc???
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Regular old MIG, I think TIG with some sort of nickel rod would have been the best way to go but IMO this is more than sufficient.
 
Nice write up. Is that 4 link a kit or did you put it together yourself? Can you post more info on it? Thanks
 
Thanks for the link. I prefer to re invent the wheel and fab myself...well at least my budget does. Any chance you could post more pics of the 4 link setup...maybe a brighter flash? Thanks
 
Thanks for the pics! I've been busy lately, so sorry for the late response. Was there a template for the upper mounts, to place them prior to welding the brackets? If not, how did you determine the angles?
 
"ZFORCE" said:
Thanks for the pics! I've been busy lately, so sorry for the late response. Was there a template for the upper mounts, to place them prior to welding the brackets? If not, how did you determine the angles?
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not a prob, it actually took me some time to get them posted as well. No template, i basically installed everything (loose) centered the axle using plumbbobs and used a digital angle finder to set the pinion angle. normally i would have taken the angle off the tranny for 100% accuracy but no engine/tranny so i went with the general consensus that its about 3* pos... up whatever it is. (the 3* is from the rocker) the upper links are adjustable so you can fine tune the angel. once centered and angle correct i tack welded them in place, took her out welded completely up, painted and stuck back in.
hope that helps if not shot back.
 
Thanks, I guess I should've been more clear. I was wondering about templates for the upper link brackets that were welded to the axle tubes in your pictures, not the pinion angle. Since those upper brackets needed to be put on the axle in the correct spot and orientation, I was wondering how the kit guided you.
 
Wow, i must have missed this the first time around. Awesome build. Thanks for the pics too. It leaves me wondering though, if most people use spacers to use modern wheels, what wheels do you have planned for a rear end thats almost 3 inches shorter then stock? Am i correct in thinking that they would have to have a back spacing of 6 or 7 inchs? It doesnt look like you mini tubbed it or did you?
 
zforce, the directions don't tell u much, i'm sure you can go to ur website and download the actual install instructions. i bolted everything up including the 2 upper links with the mounting tabs for the axle tubes bolted to the link itself. with angle set and everything lined up the mounting brackets sit on the axle tubes, tack welded them where they sat, pulled out and fully welded them.

lethal, the backspacing would depend on the wheel size, i went far from stock. got some foose injectors 18x9 with 4.25 backspacing(perfect fit)

if that doesn't help i'll keep trying
-brad
 
i got one question, if i got myself a 8.8 out of a v-8 explorer with 3.73 track lock, do i have to change axels and shorten tubes if i want to place it into a 67 mustang, or is it that all i have to do is relocate perches? why do you have to shorten one side? thanks
 
im askin because i was at a pick and pull and crawled under 3 explorers and 2 with 350 gears and one with 3.73s. i am planning on going back two pick one out preferably the 3.73... what do yall think
 
They fit. There are plenty of people who just relocate the perchs and bolt them in. supposedly, if you get an all aluminum drive shaft from a two wheel drive explorer that makes the transition to a C4 and is the perfect length. The thing that concerns me is the offset pinion angle. Plenty of people run them with the offset angle. Meaning the motor, transmission and drive shaft run down the center of the car. The explorer rear end is offset nearly 3 inchs to one side. It is possible with the added angle that you can get some drive line vibrations and possibly have problems with u joints. Again many people are doing it and reporting no problems.

The other issue is that with the offset housing, the pinion snout is no longer in the trans tunnel, so it may contact the floor board of you car before the bump stops contact the housing. This can be solved by hammering some clearance into the floor.

If you have duel exhaust, it may need to be adjusted in order to clear the offset housing as well.

Hope that helps.
 
"67FSTBKRestoMod" said:
to narrow it i first drilled out the plugs, starting with a smaller bit and working up to a 1/2 inch. I then used a chisel and hammer to smosh in the the head of the plug and pop it out. Then i used a 10 ton body ram to push the axle tube out, first marking the tube and diff housing for reference points for reinsert
fbsuspension26.jpg

markings
fbsuspension30.jpg
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate on this part of your build a little bit please?

The ID of the axle tubes are larger in diameter than the casting where the shims/spacers go outside of the main bearings/caps (as shown in your second picture). The tubes are within 0.125" of being bottomed out on the casting (in out from centerline of the car), so I can't see anywhere to apply the ram of a cylinder to actually push the tube out from inside the gear housing.

Thanks for the whole posting and in advance for the additional help.

Jeff
 
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I don't *think* he pressed it out from the inside... My understanding / interpretation was that the ram was placed right where he has it shown. When pumped up, the left side sets on the center housing, and the ram pushed against the spring perch on the right side. I wouldn't image it would take much force given the plug welds are removed.
 
"stangg" said:
...pushed against the spring perch on the right side.
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Stangg,

Thanks. Make sense. Guess what I just finished cutting off of my housing... Maybe I can use an extension bar and get all the way out to the bracket that the brake plate mounts to.
 
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