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frame rail jig ???

6

68FB347

New Member
anyone ever build a jig to locate frame rails based on datum line measurements supplied in factory manuals ?? ............ if yes could someone post some pics ????

I am replacing front frame rails , torque boxes etc .............. then the rockers on a 68FB ...... any advice is appreciated
 
Never had to go that far in my restoration. Hopefully someone will chime in and give you some helpful info. Was the car in a wreck?
 
Same here.
I am interested because my ocomming project, a vert ....is a wreck .
 
not in a wreck .............. it was attacked by the scourge of the midwest muscle car ............... salt worms !!!! :yah
 
The 65-66 shop manual supposedly has a few wrong dimensions. I verified the height to the rear of the rear spring height is off about an inch. That value *I think* stays the same in the shop manual through 1970, so I'm pretty sure it is off for the 67-68 as well.

I read other posts that other dimensions were wrong but did not verify which ones.

The "George Liskey" frame diagram has the rear frame rail height correct.
 
I am watching this thread also, my next project may require a fixture since my budget is for junk cars anyway LOL.

I plan on using a 4 post lift that can be leveled while in a park position and building a fixture that bolts or pins to it, then I can adjust the height while working. The trick is dont weld unless the lift is parked!

Looking at some of the aftermarket bits available I may just build a new chassis someday and drop the body on...but I want to see how someone else does it first. :puk
 
I have done this. It is not for the timid to say the least. I spent months measuring and tweaking with everything clecoed, vise gripped, or screwed together before the first weld was placed. I did not use a jig and I basically found the measurements/references to be unuseful as these cars had horrible tolerances. I basically used the engine crossmember, 1 piece export brace, and the front crossmember/radiator support for my references. I had not touched the passenger side and was able to use it as a constant.

I had the car on jackstands 100% level and checked for level at multiple points. I maintained that level as I was replacing the frame rail, shock tower, and torque box. If I had a suggestion, it would be to drill the welds off the front apron, shock tower, and rear apron and let it 'float' there. It will be a great reference to help you get it back to where it should be.

I hope this is helpful.
http://67fastback.webs.com/

Bill
 
Have you checked out my build thread? you can see the jig we used in some of the pics, simple, not pretty, but effective... The guy that helped me with the build has now built 40-50 camaros with it... all the parts are available at home depot...

http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/inde ... 963.0.html

and by the way, he will sell you a full floor with shock towers and rockers installed: Tony P at muscle car metal, in NH...
 
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