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Freshly Rebuilt Roller 302, pics!

J

jonward786

Member
I know how much i enjoy looking at other people's pics of their engines, so i thought id share a couple pics of mine. Got it back from the machine shop yesterday after a complete rebuild converting to all rollerized components. After taping it all off and hitting it with some 1200 degree Krylon aluminum colored paint, the only thing left to do is a little exhaust port grinding to get rid of the thermactor bumps. i asked the machinist if he would do it and he said it would be a waste of time because you wouldn't gain anything noticeable, so i grabbed a die grinder and am going to just do it myself.

dont be fooled by the oil pan, thats not a Milodon pan, just the stock pan with a couple coats of gold paint haha. the block and head paint isnt quite what i was going for, i was trying to closely match the color of the intake cause i love the color of bare aluminum, but i can live with it i guess. i read somewhere about the little vaseline trick to put over the freeze plugs during painting so it could be wiped off after and the paint wouldnt stick to the plugs so i did that as well, i like the look of new shiny freeze plugs. Tell me what you think!

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And here are a couple pics i snapped as i was stopping in the shop to remind the machinist that this is my daily driver so hurry up...

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Not real keen on the idea of grinding the ports with the heads bolted on the engine. How do you plan on keeping 100% of all that metal flying around from finding it's way into the engine?
 
An oily rag. Gonna stuff one in the port im working on , grind, vacuum up the loose shavings, and pull the rag out when im done. seems like a perfectly fine way to do it imo
 
Looking good. I would put some rags between the chain and the valve covers. No need to mar up those nice covers.
 
The silver looks nice, but unfortunately it's only going to look this pretty for a very short time. Once you get a few miles on the car it'll look.... well.... not so pretty.

IMO, the absolute BEST color for an engine.... if possible the whole damn thing... is black. Even when the engine is dirty it's difficult to notice!
 
Tad, they're just the stock heads.

I have a question. Today as i was putting the engine back in the car and buttoning everything back up, i noticed one of the hardlines coming from the tranny was loose, its the one that comes up the top of the tranny and connects to the back of the intake pictured here.

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I followed the line down to the tranny and found that on the other end the rubber hose was not connected to anything...what does it connect to? Here you can see the end of the hose and a gold canister shaped part...is that what its supposed to connect to?

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Yep. Connects to the back of that gold cannister with a vacuum hose....the vacuum modulator which controls the shifting of the automatic based on engine vacuum.
 
Hey guys im having a hell of a time getting this thing to start today. I am beginning to think im using a totally wrong firing order, ive gotten a couple flames through the carb. I am using the standard 302 ford firing order 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 with the rotor rotating CCW. Is this the proper firing order for this cam?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-35-421-8/

It says its a 351W cam, so do i need a 351 firing order or what?
 
If it says 351 cam....I would guess to try the 351 firing order. Fire thru the carb means a problem for sure. Verify TDC also since you have to rewire...


289 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
302 (Pre-82) 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
5.0 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
5.0 HO 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
5.0 Truck 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
351 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
 
Well frack, i went out, rewired to the 351 firing order, and using a breaker bar to find TDC as usual...BUT i left the breaker bar on the bolt by accident and when i went to crank it over i heard a big pop and the large bolt for the crank came out. DAMNIT

I screwed it back in but i have a feeling i did irreversible damage as now it labors much more to turn over, and still wont fire..
 
That bolt spinning out should not cause a problem in the cranking speed or anything else except maybe some dinged threads. The wrong firing order can. If the bolt screwed in ok, it should be fine.

Number 1 is on the front passenger side of the engine, and the dist. does rotate CCW. Keep it simple. Start from the basics and set things up. Sometimes to many things get changed trying top chase one problem.
 
ok thats a relief. the bolt did thread back in fine, i just was unsure if it coming out would cause the crank to slip out of alignment or something like that. im not sure how, but i can only assume the battery needs a charge if the cranking speed has slowed down so much. ill give it a charge tonight and come back an attempt this more tomorrow.

i followed the standard procedure for finding TDC of compression stroke of #1, turned the engine clockwise with the breaker bar on the bolt, TDC was about at the 0 mark on the balancer, so after noting the position of the rotor, i rotated the housing to position number 1 cylinder directly under the rotor, put the cap down and wired properly. I really hope my battery just needs a charge and its not laboring for some other reason
 
A weak battery can also cause starting problems. All the power is taken by the starter not leaving any for spark...or a weak spark at best.
 
In addition to all this fun, ive also got a pretty neat coolant leak coming from one of the smaller bolts of the water pump, which is great cause i put sealer on all of them...sigh
 
Are you 100% certain that you're on the #1 cylinders compression stroke... and not the "cleaning" stroke? You wouldn't be the first (nor the last) to be 180 degrees out.
 
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