Fordrevhead
New Member
1983 Mazda RX7 GSL FB with Pacific Wide Body kit.
Car is quite clean and solid. Minimal rust anywhere. OEM Manual Sunroof car. Originally a Rusty Jones coated seasonally driven VT car owned by a college friend. He had the Wide Body kit installed around 1990 and the car was changed from red to black paint. The kit was from a company called Pacific... one of the nicer kits I've seen. It’s wider yet sleeker than Mariah’s mode One kit but not crazy wide like the Mariah GTU kit.
In the late 90’s, this car was converted to a Ford 289 with toploader for Hillclimb. It got a DNF at the first event after snapping the stock rear differential after about 150 feet, lol. It now has a rebuilt 8-3/4 SureGrip Chrysler 5 lug rear differential with 3:23 gears. This auction is for a rolling, braking shell as the engine and transmission have been removed for another project. It could easily be converted back to Rotary or you can slap a small block Ford Mustang 5.0 in it, included are all the parts to do so again minus the engine and transmission.
The car went to Florida after the hillclimb episode and mostly sat in a garage for 12 years, terrorizing the neighborhood every now and then. I brought the car back here in the Fall of 2004 in plans for a street driven drag car… and its always been garaged.
The interior has been stripped save the dash, console and front seats. The floor has a thin layer of bedliner spray on it. It has full rear roll cage and custom rocker supports. It has a custom strut tower brace which bolts on to the stock torsion tube and the towers. The cage just has a horizontal front hoop, there’s no front verticals installed as the plan was to come down through the firewall and attach to the tower braces after the dash was removed. (I was also planning an aluminum dash for weight and custom gauges).
It has 1985 GSL-SE struts, springs and spindles with the Respeed Big Brake front conversion with Turbo II brakes (dual piston aluminum calipers) and freshly skim turned stock oem cast rotors (better heat dissipation), new pads, new stainless steel braided brake lines and all new fluid with fresh fluid and bleed all around.
Non power steering box works well, and it has ALL new tie rod ends, rebuilt steering idler, huge front sway bar with new poly bushings & new end links. 1.25" aluminum wheel spacers all around, ALL new ARP wheel studs on the front, new tuner lugs all around with two tools, 5 lug Loco Racing wheels (staggered with great rubber), 17� Unilugs up front with Nitto NT450 Extreme Performance 215/45ZR17’s and in the rear Sumitomo HTRZII directional 245/40ZR18’s. Could probably use an alignment, it was just set up race style with a tram gauge.
Stock clutch pedal setup still intact (ran toploader with hydraulic slave cylinder). Has older 5 pt RCI harnesses, rear battery mount with all new heavy gauge wire and new RV top mount clamps. Fireproof fuel line ran rear to front. Still has stock gas tank but that hasn’t been used in years. It had a fuel cell which was stolen.
The hood scoop is functional. The center brace was cut out and the scoop bonded with the proper SEM product and smoothed in with Kevlar fiber so it wont crack. A 10� Pro Flo 2� filter and breather (Summit) and up to 1� carb spacer on high rise or 2� spacer on low rise manifold works perfect.
Car is in matte black monochrome DP90 2 part epoxy sprayed last winter to clean up and protect the body. The body work is not flawless but it looks pretty good and wouldn’t take much to sand it, finish it up and paint it if that’s what you wanted.
Since it was stripped for drag there’s a few things you’d want to go over if you wanted to put it back on the street. I have the door seals but they aren’t the greatest so after paint I didn’t put them back on so they need replacing, the headlights haven’t been opened in a few years but they did work and you should go over all the lights of course, the rear hatch handle is missing and the hydraulic cylinder is weak and the drivers window motor barely put the window up the last time. My plan here was to remove the power window motors and go manual for weight and reliability.
This is a bad*ss body and if you wanted a street, drag, drift, hillclimb, etc body… this would be a cheap start to a cool project. A lot of the work is done & the brakes and steering are rebuilt and or upgraded.
Too many projects, my loss can be your gain. I’d love someone who has the time, ability, vision, funds and ambition to bring this back to life again!
There's $2k in wheels, tires and the rear differential alone. Body kits are easily $3k + installation. TONS of fab work, etc.
Car was last registered in Vermont in 2006 in my name. No titles in VT for a car this age. You’ll get the VT registration paperwork and a bill of sale.
Other parts that were used on the Ford powerplant conversion… take them or leave them:
NEW Corvette triple core radiator,
electric fan,
F150 hydraulic slave cylinder used with toploader,
crossmember modified for toploader,
shortened driveshaft,
older Hooker long tube headers (ordered for a Mercury Comet)
custom side exhaust with glass packs,
modified F350 351 motor mounts
I also have a complete Mazda 1983 workshop manual with full wiring diagrams that goes with the car as well.
$1700 OBO
Car is quite clean and solid. Minimal rust anywhere. OEM Manual Sunroof car. Originally a Rusty Jones coated seasonally driven VT car owned by a college friend. He had the Wide Body kit installed around 1990 and the car was changed from red to black paint. The kit was from a company called Pacific... one of the nicer kits I've seen. It’s wider yet sleeker than Mariah’s mode One kit but not crazy wide like the Mariah GTU kit.
In the late 90’s, this car was converted to a Ford 289 with toploader for Hillclimb. It got a DNF at the first event after snapping the stock rear differential after about 150 feet, lol. It now has a rebuilt 8-3/4 SureGrip Chrysler 5 lug rear differential with 3:23 gears. This auction is for a rolling, braking shell as the engine and transmission have been removed for another project. It could easily be converted back to Rotary or you can slap a small block Ford Mustang 5.0 in it, included are all the parts to do so again minus the engine and transmission.
The car went to Florida after the hillclimb episode and mostly sat in a garage for 12 years, terrorizing the neighborhood every now and then. I brought the car back here in the Fall of 2004 in plans for a street driven drag car… and its always been garaged.
The interior has been stripped save the dash, console and front seats. The floor has a thin layer of bedliner spray on it. It has full rear roll cage and custom rocker supports. It has a custom strut tower brace which bolts on to the stock torsion tube and the towers. The cage just has a horizontal front hoop, there’s no front verticals installed as the plan was to come down through the firewall and attach to the tower braces after the dash was removed. (I was also planning an aluminum dash for weight and custom gauges).
It has 1985 GSL-SE struts, springs and spindles with the Respeed Big Brake front conversion with Turbo II brakes (dual piston aluminum calipers) and freshly skim turned stock oem cast rotors (better heat dissipation), new pads, new stainless steel braided brake lines and all new fluid with fresh fluid and bleed all around.
Non power steering box works well, and it has ALL new tie rod ends, rebuilt steering idler, huge front sway bar with new poly bushings & new end links. 1.25" aluminum wheel spacers all around, ALL new ARP wheel studs on the front, new tuner lugs all around with two tools, 5 lug Loco Racing wheels (staggered with great rubber), 17� Unilugs up front with Nitto NT450 Extreme Performance 215/45ZR17’s and in the rear Sumitomo HTRZII directional 245/40ZR18’s. Could probably use an alignment, it was just set up race style with a tram gauge.
Stock clutch pedal setup still intact (ran toploader with hydraulic slave cylinder). Has older 5 pt RCI harnesses, rear battery mount with all new heavy gauge wire and new RV top mount clamps. Fireproof fuel line ran rear to front. Still has stock gas tank but that hasn’t been used in years. It had a fuel cell which was stolen.
The hood scoop is functional. The center brace was cut out and the scoop bonded with the proper SEM product and smoothed in with Kevlar fiber so it wont crack. A 10� Pro Flo 2� filter and breather (Summit) and up to 1� carb spacer on high rise or 2� spacer on low rise manifold works perfect.
Car is in matte black monochrome DP90 2 part epoxy sprayed last winter to clean up and protect the body. The body work is not flawless but it looks pretty good and wouldn’t take much to sand it, finish it up and paint it if that’s what you wanted.
Since it was stripped for drag there’s a few things you’d want to go over if you wanted to put it back on the street. I have the door seals but they aren’t the greatest so after paint I didn’t put them back on so they need replacing, the headlights haven’t been opened in a few years but they did work and you should go over all the lights of course, the rear hatch handle is missing and the hydraulic cylinder is weak and the drivers window motor barely put the window up the last time. My plan here was to remove the power window motors and go manual for weight and reliability.
This is a bad*ss body and if you wanted a street, drag, drift, hillclimb, etc body… this would be a cheap start to a cool project. A lot of the work is done & the brakes and steering are rebuilt and or upgraded.
Too many projects, my loss can be your gain. I’d love someone who has the time, ability, vision, funds and ambition to bring this back to life again!
There's $2k in wheels, tires and the rear differential alone. Body kits are easily $3k + installation. TONS of fab work, etc.
Car was last registered in Vermont in 2006 in my name. No titles in VT for a car this age. You’ll get the VT registration paperwork and a bill of sale.
Other parts that were used on the Ford powerplant conversion… take them or leave them:
NEW Corvette triple core radiator,
electric fan,
F150 hydraulic slave cylinder used with toploader,
crossmember modified for toploader,
shortened driveshaft,
older Hooker long tube headers (ordered for a Mercury Comet)
custom side exhaust with glass packs,
modified F350 351 motor mounts
I also have a complete Mazda 1983 workshop manual with full wiring diagrams that goes with the car as well.
$1700 OBO