• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Grond wire connertor for heater/AC blower gets hot?

1965GTFB

Member
'67 289 with factory AC(from donor car).
Finishing up the last of the wiring on a full resto. Last electrical function to check was heater/AC blower function. AS explained below part of the blower ground wire is getting warm/hot and I really don't want to be that guy that burns a fresh resto to the ground.

-1st disclaimer - a PO had cut both the blower motor wires at some point and put a butt connector in before it continued to the normal female end. Butt connector is about 8-10" from where wire enters the blower motor and about 1-1.5" past the butt connector is the factory female connector.

- 1st check had not done final connection of ground wire so I plugged a factory style single male connector with a section of original wire intact(I cut them from an old harness to get a cleaner/better fit) into the ground wire female connector from the motor and just held the eye connector I put at the other end to a grounding point. The blower worked fine but the end of the wire got warm/hot enough for me to feel it on my finger and pull it off.

- 2nd try blower ran fine at all speeds and I checked the wire for heat. I noticed that the point at the female and male connectors got warmest/hottest and the section of wire passed the connectors to the end also got warm. The section of wire from the blower motor to just before the female connector seemed to stay cool.

Now the questions and the first one might the dumbest, especially from a guy on his 3rd complete ground up resto. I should understand this stuff better but maybe there is a short in my head after a long day on the car combined with the frustrations of having to modify a poorly made Scott Drake Inst. Bezel to get the lenses to fit.

- Meter on the end of the ground wire, turned on the blower switch and I get 12+V at the end of the ground wire, also used a test light which lights when the blower is switched on. Is that right?

- With blower switch off and checking ground wire for continuity on the 200 ohms setting(on my harbor freight freebie meter) I get 9.1.

- The wiring diagram(Osborn) shows the ground wire from the blower going to what looks like a male connector(not female as the PO spliced on), then into a separate wire that has "19C661 ASSY." across it before ending at an eye and a ground symbol . Is the "19C661 ASSY." just referring to that section of wire from the connector to the eye?
 
9 ohms is too high for any wire continuity. Obviously, one probe is on the ground wire, where is the other probe? You may be measuring the resistance of the blower motor.

MPC lists 19D661 as a AC gasket, so I have no good idea what the assembly is. But yes, it does appear that one line from the motor goes to ground. Does the ring connector make good contact with the chassis? Is there a grounding strap from the engine to the firewall?

How about bypassing the AC and hooking up the blower motor in the standard, non-AC method and see what happens?
 
Obviously, one probe is on the ground wire, where is the other probe?
Tried other probe various places, mostly screws into dash, also straight to underside of dash.

Does the ring connector make good contact with the chassis?
To make the blower run I was holding the ring connector against a ground screw on the brace behind the inst. bezel area(when cluster was out) and against a mounting screw at the bottom of the cluster now that the cluster is in.

Is there a grounding strap from the engine to the firewall?
Not yet, the car is 95% back together, engine has not even been fired yet no exhaust past headders, PS plumbing not hooked up yet...

How about bypassing the AC and hooking up the blower motor in the standard, non-AC method and see what happens?
What wires would go where to do that? Just follow the heater only diagram? This is a console car so things are not the easiest to get to now that it is mostly back together.

So on this question - Meter on the end of the ground wire, turned on the blower switch and I get 12+V at the end of the ground wire, also used a test light which lights when the blower is switched on. Is that right? Is that the worlds dumbest electrical question does the currentalways go all the way through to the ground wire when power is put to the device? I guess I could answer that myself my pulling the ground wire off on my heater only '65 and checking it with the switch on, just need to get all the stuff(tools etc.) off the hood that I have been using for the '67 project. Terrible how once the cover is on it can easily become a '65 workbench.


Continuity question. With one probe on the ground wire from the blower and the other to the blower motor housing(metal part on the back side so it won't be seen digging in a little to get through the nice new paint) should I get a change from 1. I got no change at all doing that.
 
Well, something is not right at all. Until you ground the chassis with a grounding strap from the battery to the engine and from the engine to the chassis, any thing can result. Put the damn grounding strap in and try it then. Without that connection, trouble-shooting is impossible.
 
Back
Top