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Here we go! 1966 Coupe

Discussion in 'Member's Build Threads' started by tlmartin84, Oct 6, 2017.

  1. tlmartin84

    tlmartin84 New Member

    [​IMG]

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    It's gonna be a month or so before I really get rolling. Not really sure which direction I am heading as far as drivetrain and suspension is concerned.

    The '65 is a complete car, but the '66 is in better shape. The first task is to transfer all the parts I need from the 65 to the 66 and then start patching.
     
    RapidRabbit likes this.
  2. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    Cool


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. Boom

    Boom Active Member

    Nice, that's going to be a fun project.
     
  4. Grabber70Mach

    Grabber70Mach Well-Known Member

    Sweet, bringing one back to life.
     
  5. StanGee

    StanGee New Member

    Any updates about the restoration?
     
  6. tlmartin84

    tlmartin84 New Member

    I've got them moved to the apron in front of my shop garage door, and have inventoried all the miscellaneous parts.

    I have a 56 F100 I have to get some media blasting done on, prior to starting these. I am also clearing a bunch of fence rows while weather is holding out. Soon as snow starts flying I should be getting around 20 hours per week split between the 56 and 66.
     
  7. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    Haha well dang so I have a 65 Mustang im converting to a FB and a 55 F100 :)
     
  8. janschutz

    janschutz Corn Hauler

    Must be a theme. I have a 68 Coupe and a 59 F100.
     
  9. 3175375

    3175375 Well-Known Member

    First things: check the floorboards n trunk. POR-15 is your friend.
    Second is to inspect the cowl
     
  10. 3175375

    3175375 Well-Known Member

    Are you going to put the coupe to fastback conversion in a build thread?
     
  11. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

  12. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    I do not understand the fixation with POR-15. You see guys slathering this stuff all over everything regardless of metal condition as if it is some kind of miracle cure for metal rot. Same with other so called "rust encapsulators". Not sold on it. I've seen plenty of pictures of metal "treated" with such where the rot continues, hidden away for a while only to return much worse. Why not do it right and remove the rust and bad metal in the first place? When have cheap and easier ever really been a good solution to anything?
     
  13. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    I know you know what your talking about but you can really be a debbie downer sometimes! You are right though, a lot of people just paint over the rust
     
  14. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    I don't mean to be. Honestly. I have spent over three decades in roles professionally in a technical capacity. I have come to fully realize there are the right ways to do things and all the others. Some of the "others" are ok and can work but in my opinion they do just that. Work but leave sometimes much to be desired. I get not everyone can afford the cost to do everything perfect. But in my eyes our labor is free. I'm big on do it once right instead of close over and over.

    When it come to rust and metal anything short of RIGHT (which means full removal) is just a placeholder at best as the rust will keep growing and destroying the metal. I can't understand why one wouldn't take the time to get it all out before calling it good enough. What's a few more hours or days to know its right and will last another 50 years vs good enough and hope it doesn't show for 5?
     
    JRANGER likes this.
  15. 3175375

    3175375 Well-Known Member

    I wore wheeled my floorboards n trunk n then applied the POR-15 it is tough. I did this in 2000 n it still looks great
     
  16. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    Rust needs oxygen to "grow". The premise of POR-15 is it creates a shield over the metal blocking out air, at least as I understand it. Their instructions direct to clean up the rust present well before application. This is to avoid any flaking which would jeopardize the coating contact integrity allowing in air. And then the rust is off to the races. Far too many people think they can just slather it on and by a miracle all is good, no metal prep required. Sounds like you prepped and applied it as required.
     
  17. 3175375

    3175375 Well-Known Member

    In the cabin n trunk I also applied seam sealer. Once my headache dispersed I applied black anti skid coating (rattle can). It came out fabulous
     
  18. tlmartin84

    tlmartin84 New Member

    I do not use por 15, but KBS. Same stuff essentially. I blast everything first though, and then apply it.

    However I think I will just be using epoxy primer on this one after prepped.
     
    JRANGER likes this.

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