• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Locking Header Bolts on the cheap!

AtlantaSteve

Active Member
When recently having to dink around with my headers, I decided while I had them unhooked from the engine, I wanted to install some locking header bolts, but was sorta put off by the cost. I know 50 to 80 bucks is not a whole lot in the grand scheme, but I'm shaving any penny I can, and if a cheaper solution falls in my lap, I'm gonna try it.

A cheaper solution fell in my lap.

Spectre, ye-olde-maker of cheap metal braiding for your hoses, has a set of header bolts that are super cheap, that include a locking solution using lockwire. This appealed to me as it's sorta old-school-racer looking, so I figured WTF. Jeggs is getting 15 for a set, but I got them at Autozone for just over 10 per set.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/4668/10002/-1

Unfortunately, they targeted the chevy community,and since the SBCs have the two middle primaries together, with only 2 bolts holding the center of the flange, one kit is not enough for a SBF, so I had to buy 2 kits, and have some left over bolts and wire (which is great to have available should I need to replace anything)

SO here are some pictures:
5077803703_12abe439af.jpg

IN the packaging, though I had already cut the packaging open.

5078398256_23cde4526b.jpg

Here you can see the drilled bolt head and lock wire.

5078399584_063e888858.jpg

Blurry picture here showing the allen head in the bolt. This allows you to use an allen socket (included in box) or other allen tools to get around difficult to navigate headers.

5078399998_bbb949f3a9.jpg

Wobble Head Allen Socket...I had mixed results with this. My main complaint was that the wobble head would get stuck in the bolt and I Had to use China-locks(Channel-Lock knockoff from China) to snatch it back out. Total pain. Also, it was only SLIGHTLY helpful in getting around some of my header tubes.

5077807589_bdae46d204.jpg

Just showing how these work together.

After cursing and yelling at whoever the heck designed my headers and finally got them installed, I forgot to take pictures of the final product...OOPS.

so here's a swiped installed image I found online:
51XMDXDJ2AL._SS400_.jpg
 
So.....does the wire just stick thru the hole in the bolt head (held in by the outward pressure of the tension) or is it bent to prevent it from bouncing out?
 
It looks like there's one more step -- twist the wire around the head of the bolt like you're safety wiring any other type of bolt.
 
I put a sharp 90 degree turn in the wire right where it comes out of the head and cut it off...the wire is extremely thick, and trying to do a real wrap would be difficult. They will stay in place fine, as they are now. Next time I take them off I might switch to a thinner wire and do a good wrap around like suggested above.
 
Nice find.
That allen head feature is a huge help.
The Stage 8s that I have have that but are a pain to use as the washer that keeps them from backing out has to be ground down alot of the time to fit next to the header tubes.
Yours wouldn't have that issue at all.
 
Not to be a party pooper but I don't see those being paticularily effective. Looking at the above pic, the bolt can turn at least 90 degrees before the wire interferes with anything.

Do you weave it through all of the bolts or is there one wire for each exhaust port? (4 wires per side) Be sure you run the car for 15-20 minutes without the locks in place then re-tighten the bolts and then lock them down.

+ + = fuggetaboud header leaks.
 
Looks like a good low buck solution Steve. I may switch to these as I'm not happy with the 12 points I bought, too hard to get a 3/8 12pt. socket in the area due to tube bends, haven't looked for a 1/4" 12pt. socket yet though.

Where can you find safety wire locally? and what gauge should it be? If I install these 6pts. I would probably go with the safety wire from the get go. I'll look for them at my local AZ.
Jon
 
"Sluggo" said:
Not to be a party pooper but I don't see those being paticularily effective. Looking at the above pic, the bolt can turn at least 90 degrees before the wire interferes with anything.


How so? The lock wire goes up from one bolt and over the exhaust port, and then into the bolt on the opposite side of the exhaust port. SO yes, 4 per side. Look at them in the package, where they setup a pair across a photograph of a header of a primary. That is how they are installed. The wire is stiff as hell, and a very tight fit through the holes in the bolt heads. If I jammed a wrench on one of them and tried to turn it, I'd be fighting like a bugger, let alone normal vibration.

Not saying there's anything wrong with the stage-8 setups...they are very very nice. I also like the split-bolt designs like from Percy's. I just found this as an option and said WTF, I'll give it a try. I dig the look. And, as mentioned, no grinding down washers to get them to fit next to my VERY tight-fit headers.
 
Guess i could have followed the link. :eek:mg

I see how they work now :nk

So you bend the end of the wire after you run it through the bolt to keep it from coming out.
 
I have used those Star lock washers (inside type) for years on my headers without leaks or loosening bolts.
Simple and easy to use, Cheap cost and very effective.
Install header with gasket and tork, run eng thru warm up cycle and retork and forget about them.
Only drawback is they are a one time useage lock washer, But I get them by the box of 50.
 
Back
Top