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WANTED looking for drip rail metal

Fst Blk

Fst Blk

Well-Known Member
Burning in my full qtr and blew thru some thin metal on the drip rails. Needing some patch metal if anybody has a parts car or whatever.

Bill
 
It's in great shape, I just ground it too much cutting out the old quarter and later paid for it burning in the new. I'm contemplating shaving the rails.

Bill
 
Well , I am not into shaving drip rail , door handles or whatever.
It will devaluate the car.MHO.
 
You could be correct, I haven't made a decision yet. Value means little to me anyways. My car is an T-code, so not like I'm destroying some rare gem.

Bill
 
There are guys who want a fastback , A code , C code or T code , as long as it is a unmolested car.
There comes a time that we are selling our cars.
Then you will be glad you did it the right way.
MHO
 
How long of a piece do you need? I might have short piece left over. I bought some generic drip rail stock from Florida Mustang back in '06 before the dynacorn pieces where available. I used it on the lower portion of both the A and B pillar. Since it is generic, it does require some massaging, but since I was putting the trim back on the profile mismatch wasn't a big concern. By the way, the coupe drip rail profile is taller than a fastback, so be sure to keep that in mind if you get some pieces off a coupe.
 
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This is the area. It's in the curve. You can see how I've started to try to repair it by welding and shaping...

Bill
 
The curved section does not have the nearly as much of a face as the top or bottom section. It's probably not even half the height. The reason for is being shorter there is for ease of installing the drip rail moldings. What you could do is make form out of a 2x6. Draw the curve in the middle of the 2x6 and cut it with a scroll or jig saw. Then take a piece of 0.030" x 2 inch wide steel and sandwich it between the two pieces leaving about an 1/4" protruding through. If you have a large vise, clamp it in there. Then just take your body hammer tap away until the edge if folded over. Folding along the outer edge of the curve should be pretty easy to do. If that doesn't work, I have a stretcher and could try to form something with that, but I think the form / hammer method would come out nicer.
 
Thanks, that could work. I'm still thinking shaving them might go better with the body mods I have in mind.

Bill
 
Yes, that's why that section is shorter... the SS trim is actually a bit narrower in the curved section... but if you're not using them, then it would look better with a consistent curve (OMO).
 
Ok, so that I'm clear on the drip rail molding. You guys aren't talking about the stainless that goes inside the door area that the weatherstripping attaches to. You guys are talking about the strips that go on the outside edge of the drip rails right?

Bill
 
Correct, There are three pieces of stainless... the outer drip rail molding, then there's the weatherstrip channel, then between the weatherstrip channel and the outer moulding there is another piece that fills the gap... on the early cars, this filler strip is one piece. On the later cars the filler strip is only on the A and B pillars and the roof rail portion is left bare.

EDIT... actually I'm not sure about the A pillar section being covered on the later cars.. just know that the B pillar only extends up the B pillar and through the curved section.
 
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