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Mach1Mark's '65 coupe restomod

Thanks for the heads up. Hopefully I'll get a chance to make another order from SPI next week. I'll ask them then. I'm hoping to spray a little within the next several weeks on mine. I've been in Columbia all last week and this coming also. No work getting done on mine!
 
This afternoon we welded in the subframe connectors (Competition Engineering brand). They fit perfect and shouldnt be too obvious once the Colt is back on his wheels. Great progress I think. :)
 
This afternoon massaged the passenger quarter panel and began applying filler, applied filler to the C pillar, metal2metal filler to the driver door outside mirror holes and vandal damage on the driver quarter panel.
 
Finished cutting rusty outer wheelhouse, continued massaging the quarter panel damage, filled holes on driver door (mirror).
 
Spent a couple hours this afternoon finish trimming the new outer wheelhouse, rough trimmed quarter panel replacement skin, cleaned panel seams in trunk for new sealer, installed door hinges. Also stopped @ Mustangs Unlimited and bought a full set of 1965 assembly manuals.
 
Yesterday afternoon welded the outer wheel house and quarter panel patches in place. Forgot to take a couple of pics of the quarter panel. Great progress and looking great.
 
Looking good Mark.

Not sure if you know this but you need to be sure you completely sand off any of that permanent marker you're using.

It will bleed through anything you apply over it.
 
"Sluggo" said:
Looking good Mark.

Not sure if you know this but you need to be sure you completely sand off any of that permanent marker you're using.

It will bleed through anything you apply over it.
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Thank you for your support, I'm having a lot of fun working on my old friend . . .

I'd heard that magic marker/permanent marker and anytihng else not primer or paint needs to be removed before you proceed. That has happened.

Had a minor setback recently, the parts of the body that ere stripped with bicarbonate didnt get neutralized sufficiently and the primer was literally flaking off those parts. Sooooo . . . for the past few times Ive been at the shop ive been stripping paint and neutralizing the sheet metal. The good news is the professional painter I have hired started skimming the doors and quarter panels last Sunday. He seems to be really on fire for my job. He actlually LIKES to paint black cars so this may work out really well as far as getting a super straight and right body before any paint goes on.
 
Headlight bucket repair - complete. The very thin and weak original tab was a design flaw from new. This one has been broken the entire time Ive owned the Colt. I was going to use some special low temp solder to build up and re-attach the tab . . . until I found this really slick repair kit in a major Mustang parts house catalog. Pot metal plate and JB weld, $40+s/h. A little on the spendy side but a new bucket is ~$130. Simple and effective
 
This afternoon we stripped the new primer (that was not staying put) from the metal dash and 'A' pillars, neutralized the metal where the soda was used to strip paint and dryed the area. Tom worked on stripping more primer from the inside face of one of the doors and neutralized the soda-stripped metal. Also, I tested the outside of the roof for soda and found the primer to be firmly 'stuck' to the metal so that concludes the soda remediation. I finished the day by building a new rack for hanging body parts so they can be painted off the car.
 
Edumacate me more on the soda blasting issue. I know soda blasting is environmentally friendly and effective, but what is the neutralization process? Is it involved...expensive...time-consuming...what happened?
 
Looking good Mark! BTW, I ordered more SPI primer Wednesday for the initial primer for the body on my car. It was sitting on my door step yesterday! From S. Georgia to Charleston in a single day. Gotta love it! :thu
 
"Midlife" said:
Edumacate me more on the soda blasting issue. I know soda blasting is environmentally friendly and effective, but what is the neutralization process? Is it involved...expensive...time-consuming...what happened?
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Using bicarbonate soda has several benefits (although some might say its expensive, the cost is relative) paint removal is clean with no metal warpage (none) and the remaining residue protects the bare metal from flash rusting for a week or more. It is VERY important to neutralize the soda film BEFORE primer is applied. Both the media stripper and the primer vender (in this case SPI) recommend using Simple Green or Purple Power applied directly to the stripped areas, scrub with a brush or scuff pad and rinse. Repeat two or three times. If this process is not followed the primer will be unable to adhere to the bare metal properly and as I found out flake off. The good news is that I had not yet applied the base color or clear so my loss is minimal except for the time and a little more primer.
 
"Ponyman66" said:
Looking good Mark! BTW, I ordered more SPI primer Wednesday for the initial primer for the body on my car. It was sitting on my door step yesterday! From S. Georgia to Charleston in a single day. Gotta love it! :thu
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Thank you for your support. Its been a real learning experience for me and Im really enjoying it.

The great thing about SPI (other than the great products) is that you can call their tech line even on the weekend an they answer the phone. I too, got my products in one day. make you you read the instructions a couple of times, once you mix in the activator let the paint/activator mixture 'cook' for 30 minutes before you pour it into your gun and apply it in addition to the metal surface instructions and you will have no problems.
 
Today spent time applying more seam sealer under the dash (done), in the trunk (almost done) a couple of areas on the cowl and footwells.
 
Bought the paint (custom mix) for the interior this afternoon along with some needed painting supplies. The steering wheel I bought I bought last week from Mark (mmw68) arrived today, cant wait to bolt it to my Mustang.
 
Today, we painted all the interior parts and pieces in Palomino (a Ford color for the Mustang in 1965). It really looks great !!
 
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