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most cost effective sound deadener/heat insulation?

hey folks, between all the different manufacturers, dynamat, acoustishield, etc, etc...which one have you been most pleased with? just can't decide.
i need to help control the drone of the new mufflers at idle and heat coming thru the trans tunnel. plus, i want to hear some decent bass/treble, too.
thanks.
 
i have http://www.raamaudio.com/ in my car . I researched all the products out there before i bought it. As far as cost it wasn't the cheapest ,but the reviews were positive an it was less expensive than the bigger named products.
I used 1 roll of the deadening and some of the Ensolite on the floor. Worked out great did the doors,floors,firewall and the sides of the trunk with that 1 roll.
Installation of the product went easily, you don't need much effort to form it to the floor.
 
I was told you can go to Lowes/Home Depot and buy insulation (I think it's for water heaters or roofing? called peel-n-seal or something like that). I know a few guys in my club who did it and they say it's worked out great for them. They also mentioned buying spray in sound deadener to help cut out sound as well.
 
There are a few good ones out there. Obviously, the bigger name ones cost more but they do offer some real advantages over lesser products. If you are talking about just doing the top of horizontal surfaces (floor)you can get away with some of the lesser ones. When you start to do verticals (doors) and the bottom of horizontal panels (roof) is when the big names become more important. Especially if you live in areas that get cold. Cheaper stuff has been known to come off due to age and extended cold temps.

I ended up with Dynamat because I got a great deal. Otherwise, I was going Raam as well.

The stuff at the big box hardware stores doesn't compare in terms of adhesion, sound deadening...really anything. It also has problems in high heat (melts)as well as cold. It's one of those you get what you pay for deals. Guys will tell you it works fine but do you really believe they pulled up their carpet and checked on it? The danger being it lost adhesion and allowed moisture to get trapped under it. Not worth saving a few bucks in my opinion.
 
Kat, I have a tough time reading your posts now..... :naug

Anyway, I have heard the same thing about something found at Lowe's and Homie Depot....

I was waiting for someone who has used it to post about it. I used a spray in bed liner in the 67. didn't do as I hoped it would and want to add some more/different stuff.

Mel
 
Since my budget is limited, I'll probably be going the cheaper route. May not be the best way to do it, but sure as heck beats what I have now...bare floor!
 
The products sold at lowes and the depot are asphalt based and the car specific products are Butyl based . that's the difference in the prices between the two . I would say that it's better to spend the $100.00 on the right stuff and do it once.
 
"Kats66Pny" said:
Unless someone wants to buy it for me... I'll stick to doing it the cheap way. :craz
Got a feeling that's what the PO of your car said too. How did all that work out?

This is not like buying a cheap air cleaner for now that you can easily change out later. I'd think twice about this one.
 
I remember a build thread mentioning the stuff from Lowe's...It was a dark blue early FB....Um what was used then?

What is the difference between the two besides what it is made of?

I am not a chemistry major so I have no idea about the way each works for our application. As far as I can see from this thread they are just made of different material and you should spend more money on the car specific material.

so my question is how will our cars be affected if we use the product from Lowe's? what are the drawbacks?

I used a spray in and am going to have to add something to make the car less noisy, so I need to know what is what first.

Mel
 
"Horseplay" said:
Got a feeling that's what the PO of your car said too. How did all that work out?

it runs good and sounds good and I can drive it so must've worked out fine.

Some people seem to forget not everyone has tons of money to spend on the little things. :eek:mg
 
as far as the lowe's/home depot stuff, i've used the insulation from there on numerous rods over the years. i used the stuff that looks like 2 layers of foil with bubble wrap in between. you will have to spray glue it in place with landau top adhesive & go over the seams with a layer of the foil tape, but i've had excellent results with it as far as heat & sound issues.
 
I just spent some time this afternoon applying this "Damplifier" stuff, which is obviously sound deadener and vibration dampner material. It is a sheet of metal with a thin coating of black tar-like stuff that is peel-and-stick: http://wattswheelsnwings.com/secondskin.html This guy was set up at the Portland Swap Meet this spring and the stuff seems like it'll work pretty well. I am one sheet short, so I'll have to update this after I get the carpet in.
 
"Kats66Pny" said:
it runs good and sounds good and I can drive it so must've worked out fine.

Some people seem to forget not everyone has tons of money to spend on the little things. :eek:mg
Kat,

I wasn't trying to offend. Sorry. I just wanted you to think about some of the things you've found so far about your car that previous owners did to it that were not exactly "correct". You're not alone in this department by any means. Almost every 40+ year old car out there has had an owner or two who botched a repair along the way.
As far as funds go everyone has their budgets. All I was trying to point out was where you might be better off using a product made for the job vs. one that some have substituted. Saving a few bucks now only to have to go back and do something over isn't in anyone's best financial interest.
Someone may tell you the stuff from Home Depot worked great for them but how do you know what they consider great is actually any good? There used to be a great website (I can't find a link right now) of an excellent test and review of all these materials. From hardware store cheap stuff to the top of the line branded products. Find it and you will learn a lot about the real world performance of all. Maybe one of the guys on here has it. I'm sure most know the source I am writing about.
Again, just trying to help. Good luck.
 
No worries. I understand that there is a right way and wrong way to do things. Would I like to be able to do it the right way and start from the ground up total restoration and redo everything inside and out? Heck yeah, but I know my limits and I've realized I'm just going to have to skimp on some things. I'd much rather redo insulation and carpet later down the road if that means having more money for things like suspension and brakes, etc. I have my priorities and goals and I am trying to stick to them so I don't get overwhelmed and end up with a mustang sitting around rotting away never getting worked on.
 
Kat, I have a tough time reading your posts now.....

Me too - BTW, whose a$$ is that anyway???? Nice watercolor affect......

On my Barracuda, I cleaned the floor, brushed in Por-15, then put in Dynamat X-treme. When its installed, is like tile and you are married to it. The Mustang I am doing differently. I have finished the inside metal work, cleaned, primed, re-seam sealed and painted and cleared it body color. So there I was at the crossroads........what do I do next? Well after all the BS&T getting it looking that nice, I didnt want to cover it up (although I will confess to lining the firewall and under cowl areas: http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,8225.0.html)

So now I am thinking of a "lay in" insulator/deadener. My car came with some thick panels under the carpet that were glued in previous. I may go back with them and/or a heavy jute blanket. Lay-in type insulation is great when you arent willing to commit. :naug

On the other hand, I will be using Dynamat in the doors, wheel wells and other areas because I got a deal on it. I did inside and outside the doors on the Cuda and the doors are much heavier now and really sound and feel solid when opening and closing them. I have seen the roof flashing tape at HD that comes on the rolls and I thought it to be much too thin to have any real benefit. Maybe if you bought a lot of it and layered it?
 
thanks for the tips....this all started because i just had my exhaust system installed.
got me a 2.5" x-pipe configuration from the tri-y headers to spin-tech mufflers....
to save $$ i had the shop slap on some dumps/turndowns just before the axle.

man, with no interior, i am getting every rattle and vibration i can imagine. i expected some droning from the muffler, but i think
it's heightened due to no interior....so...i will review some of these options...raam, fatmat, damplifier and the lowes/HD stuff, etc.

since i'm in sunny ca, i'm not as concerned with moisture trap, but given the amount of heat on the trans tunnel, i would consider stuff that won't melt. i'd also consider forgoing
a few trips to mcd's to get me some purpose built materials.

i've already got a hole in the pass floor that needs fixin' and first quote was
10 hours at a body shop....estimate has to be between $600-$1000....yikes!! so money is super tight.
i'm going to run the car in the driveway and crawl thru every nook & cranny to find the vibration and unbolt interior panels, unused seatbelts, etc, to limit the noise.

it's like that buzzing sound when a mid'80's caprice on 24" pulls up next to you in traffic and their car is buzzing from all the bass...
heck, maybe i should just rev it a bit more instead of idle? :p
 
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