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"Phoenix" 65 Coupe to FB

Discussion in 'Member's Build Threads' started by JRANGER, Dec 30, 2016.

  1. Boom

    Boom Active Member

    Looking good! Can't wait to put my fenders on and put my MTF nose on.
     
    JRANGER likes this.
  2. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    Got this USC All Metal filler on the cowl and lead fill areas. Will need more on the top of the qtrs but a good start for now. The cowl area worked real good but i also used a 8" dry wall spreader on it. This stuff is a little weird to spread but it works pretty good. I should of used something small on the back part as i couldn't get it to even out how i wanted

    24059393_10159572775865521_7858725039750094793_o.jpg 23847132_10159572775575521_870974964615412931_o.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2017
  3. Boom

    Boom Active Member

    Looks like fun. Is this all metal filler better then bondo/evercoat? Never used it, just wondering.
     
  4. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    Its supposed to be better especially for lead filled area because it actually contains metal. Ive heard a lot of people say its great in general and better because its more resistent
     
  5. Fst Blk

    Fst Blk Well-Known Member

    I like to use all metal in areas I’ve butt welded to help cover any pin holes I may have exposed in grinding. It has an aluminum powder mixed it. But in the original lead seam areas I’d use something stronger like durabond with fiberglass stain. It will flex better in those areas.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    I went this route because there was a post on VMF Facebook page and a ton of people said they use this but others also mentioned this. I figued it made sense. Most people said this was better due to resisting rust a lot better. Either way its there now so we will see
     
  7. Fst Blk

    Fst Blk Well-Known Member




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    I used a product called "aluma-lead" back in the 90's. It's like Allmetal. I used it on my seams mostly because I heard from a body guy that if you are filling an area with any depth it will work better. It doesn't hold moister and is not as flexible as plastic filler so it make the seam strong. Then you finish with a plastic filler. It did my quarter panels in 1990 and the car has been driven in 18 states and in all kinds of weather and even been on the drag strip many times and two open track events. No signs of issues after all that!
     
    JRANGER likes this.
  9. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    Thats great to hear!! I thought the cowl would be a great spot to use it with all the metal and butt welds.

    started fitting the duck tail. Looks like i got the Driver side rear a little off when i welded it in.

    20171125_123442.jpg 20171125_123433.jpg 20171125_152210.jpg
     
  10. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    looking good though, that's a lot of contours right there
     
  11. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    A learning curve too...At first it was way high then i realize the hinge bolts allowed it to lower...But yeah im probably going to have to do an L cut at the end and raise it a bit
     
    tarafied1 likes this.
  12. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    So my boss sent me home early because i was sick. So instead of resting like i should i got a jump on sanding down the car. There has definitely been some paint fix/blending as i found areas that came off super easy and had primer on top of more white paint but havent found much bondo

    20171201_170812.jpg
     
    Grabber70Mach and Fst Blk like this.
  13. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    I could tell it had been repainted at one time at least. glad its pretty solid
     
    JRANGER likes this.
  14. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    Well i finished sanding the exterior and found a little bondo at the bottom of the rear glass. Nothing crazy, a little surface rust on the roof.
    20171202_141639.jpg 20171202_141652.jpg 20171202_141659.jpg


    Afterwards it was time to replace the hinge on the bottom of the drivers door and adjust everything. I spent over an hour getting this gap and fitment right...IT is a pain in the ass!! On top of that the hinge gets hung if opened all the way and i have to tap it with a hammer to break free. Will a little grease fix that?
    20171202_160848.jpg
     
  15. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    You need to carve that bondo out and find out what it is hiding. What does the backside look like and the metal in the window recess? This is an area prone to water pooling and rot. You want to make sure it is repaired properly and not left to recur after paint.
    Also, when setting your door gaps start with the one between the door and quarter as the quarter is a fixed point. Fender to door comes last. Given the angle of the last pic I can't tell what that rear door gap looks like. What shows is very good.
    That lower front corner door rot is normal but still bad. You can bet there is some inner structure that may need cut out and replaced too.
     
    JRANGER likes this.
  16. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    Rust in the door doesnt look too bad except in that corner. As far as the rear it def has some surface rust on the underside in the corners so im going to have to figure out how to get a wire brush in their good and see how rough it is
     
  17. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    Cut out that door rust and you will see what is going on behind it. There is inner structure that supports the hinge panel, etc. that will likely also need repair. Like I wrote it is very common and the reason so many doors get scrapped. Water can pool in there (debris builds up and clogs drain holes) and cause real damage. Get it fixed now or it will come back quickly.
     
    JRANGER likes this.
  18. JRANGER

    JRANGER Active Member

    That is the plan, I have a patch panel sitting around just for the door. Just something ive been slacking on until i checked to see if it went further
     

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