I finally got my new 1350 pinion yoke in the mail and noticed it doesn't have the dust shield that my original yoke has. I was told by the company that most all aftermarket yokes don't come with a dust shield, and the ones that they do sell that comes with them eventually start rattling after a few thousand miles. So I wonder, who all with aftermarket pinion yokes are using a dust shield or who isn't?? Would it be a bad idea to not use the shield?
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Pinion Yoke dust shield...needed?
- Thread starter buening
- Start date
Examples of the aftermarket ones, in fact mine is at the bottom (billet chrome-moly)
http://www.pemracing.com/9inchYokes.html
http://www.pemracing.com/9inchYokes.html
camachinist
Member
Funny, I saw and answered this question once before today LOL
If you've ever driven a car around without a body at any speed, or I guess a motorcycle, and gathered bugs in your teeth, you likely have appreciation for what a oil seal experiences when blasted with debris going down the road. Thusly, they put debris shields on yokes to somewhat minimize this. Even if a yoke is sold without a shield on it doesn't mean it shouldn't have one on it when it goes on the car. That nice machined area, the same one which seals so well in the oil seal, accepts the shield easily. It should press on slightly and I'll usually press it with red loctite. I don't spot-weld on pinion yokes, though I'm sure many others do.
I've used the same old OEM 1350 Spicer yoke on the 9" in the race car since 1979. Heck, I think the seal's been in there that long too. I remember when the pinion support arrived all shiny and new from Mark Williams. Those were the days. Good luck !
If you've ever driven a car around without a body at any speed, or I guess a motorcycle, and gathered bugs in your teeth, you likely have appreciation for what a oil seal experiences when blasted with debris going down the road. Thusly, they put debris shields on yokes to somewhat minimize this. Even if a yoke is sold without a shield on it doesn't mean it shouldn't have one on it when it goes on the car. That nice machined area, the same one which seals so well in the oil seal, accepts the shield easily. It should press on slightly and I'll usually press it with red loctite. I don't spot-weld on pinion yokes, though I'm sure many others do.
I've used the same old OEM 1350 Spicer yoke on the 9" in the race car since 1979. Heck, I think the seal's been in there that long too. I remember when the pinion support arrived all shiny and new from Mark Williams. Those were the days. Good luck !
LOL, yeah I posted it on there to get a larger opinion pool...so to speak. The manufacturer of the yoke said that they don't have a dust shield that would work with this yoke, so I may just have to run the risk of not using one. As stated on the VMF, this yoke doesn't have the shoulder for the dust shield to sit on....meaning that the dust shield has a larger inside diameter than the yoke shaft and would take a lot of work for a typical dust shield to fit this yoke.
camachinist
Member
Get an ID and OD and it's simple to make a bushing to fit, presuming the machined surface goes far enough back, again easy to quantify once you have the yoke. 1/4" wide should suffice. It can be shrunk on or loctited on... let me know. Usually takes about ten minutes.
camachinist
Member
Measure up the differences in ID and OD and I'll tell you if it's feasible. If you can get proper dimensions (like with a micrometer) anyone with a lathe, including myself, can make it. 10 minutes tops. Let me know.
I appreciate that Pat. I'm having them ship me a shield so that I can get the correct measurement.
If possible, I'd like to have the bushing ID a bit smaller than the OD of the yoke. I could then heat/freeze the components so that they slide on somewhat easy and then form a very tight fit once at room temp. I could always tack weld the shield and bushing together, but am not sure about welding to the billet yoke. Never welded to billet before but am sure its no different than regular steel.
If possible, I'd like to have the bushing ID a bit smaller than the OD of the yoke. I could then heat/freeze the components so that they slide on somewhat easy and then form a very tight fit once at room temp. I could always tack weld the shield and bushing together, but am not sure about welding to the billet yoke. Never welded to billet before but am sure its no different than regular steel.