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Power window realy wiring

68EFIvert

68EFIvert

Well-Known Member
I am tired of my windows coming up very slowly so I have decided to rewire them with the addition of relays. I am already in the final stages of rewiring the entire car with an AAW kit so this falls under the "may as well" category. I think I have the basics but I want to run it by you guys to see before going too far. I know I will need two relays for each window, one for the up switch and one for down. Here is what I think is correct for the connections to the relay.

12v fused power to 85 and 87
87A Ground
86 to window switch
30 to power window motor

I am not sure about a couple things on the wiring. Do I still need to run the 12v power to the switch? How about a ground to the switch? If I do, I assume I can just tie into them and not run a seperate power supply? I know I will still have an illumination wire to the switch but I an not sure what the different letters mean on the back of the switch. I have interpreted it as follows:

Can you guys tell me that the different letters mean or confirm this is correct?
D - To Motor (up?)
C- Ground with a jump to B
A- Power
B- Ground jumped to C
E- To motor (down?)
L- Light for switch.

Does it sound like I am going in the right direction? Thanks for the help!
 
The switches look like they are made by ERGI. I looked it up and realize that I have swithch model 4920 10 457. It also looks like I have the posts correct. Now the questions is do I need to leave the power and ground to the switch and just tap into the the switch with the relay with post 86 and then send the signal back out of the relay to the motor via 30. Is it that simple? Of course I would need to use the same power source and ground for the relay.
 
Why do you think relays will help with the issue? Have you measured a voltage drop at the motors? What motor do you have powering the window? Before you go to all the wiring troubles I suggest running a straight 12v hot lead to one of the motors and see if it improves the performance. I'm guessing it won't. You likely need a higher torque motor to lift the heft of the window.
The only retail retro-fit system I know of that uses an adequately powered/geared motor is Nu-Relic. They use the same unit as found in modern cars.
 
I ran my power probe directly to the window motor and it was a very modest improvement if any. The windows are from electric-life and they suggested the relays. I am beginning to doubt it will do anything to add relays. My next step is to add helper springs to the setup.
 
"68EFIvert" said:
The windows are from electric-life and they suggested the relays. I am beginning to doubt it will do anything to add relays. My next step is to add helper springs to the setup.
Click to expand...

Don't bother with the relays... the electric life design isn't properly geared... I added two helper springs to mine and it did help... The springs brought it from practically non functional to marginal. I still have it on my to-do list to replace the electric life regulators with the Nu-relic regulators. The dis-advantage with having helper springs on the Electric life kit is that you need to keep the springs under tension add they vibrate when you close your door. It sounds kind of like guitar strings being strum.
 
I've pretty much bagged the relay idea at this point. I read so much about other people not helping out their situations it just makes sense to going to different path. I put in helper springs and they help quite a bit. The only problem is when the spring have the least tension is when the electric motors need the most help. Thanks for the help and advice.


Darreld
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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