(Pretend) "1964 Mustang" rear brake adjuster question?

[DeadStang]

Working on the 1964 Comet and am near the end (finally). 3/4 drum brakes have fresh soft lines (front) and wheel cylinders after 30 years. I have decided that I do not like drum brakes! My hands aren't big enough to use the brake spring tool, so I used multiple screw drivers and such on all of these big-a$$ed springs and I ended up putting the first one together and taking it apart about 4 times before I got it right. Sigh.

Anyway, I am on the last rear drum (driver's side), but...the adjuster seems to be hung up. I was able to move it some initially, but now it clicks but is snapping back--it won't move the little wheel inside either direction. I can get the drum outward toward me about 3/4", but I am told that it must be grooved or it would go ahead and slide off. None of the other brakes pads/drums were grooved, so I'm skeptical. But that's not the issue. Any ideas on how to get the adjuster un-stuck?

:roulette

 

[daveSanborn]

Assuming that the adjuster wheel and all springs, clips and adjustment pieces/hardware are clean and in good working order.... inspect what should be the smooth surface of the drum brake backing plate. The backing plate is the fixed to the axle housing circular metal piece that's staring at you when all of your brake hardware/shoes are removed. Check it carefully for a wear pattern that's created a ridge where one or both of the brake shoes have worn into the metal from repeated contact. Use a mini-grinder to smooth away any imperfections until the surface is smooth, paint to prevent rust and then apply a light coat of grease to allow the inboard edge of the brake shoe to "slide" across the surface. This is a very common problem with 40+ year old drum brake systems.

If the backing plate appears smooth, reinstall everything and hope that maybe something was binding during the last install.

Lastly.... sorry, silly question.... you are using a left side adjuster kit and not trying to use a RH side kit.... right?

 

[AzPete]

If the drum will not come off the car, the adjuster must be rotated or you may break something when removing the drum.

Be sure you are turning the adjuster wheel the correct direction. With the adjuster tool on the wheel thru the slot, lift the handle and try to rotate it. If you are going to replace the brake shoes, I would spray some WD-40 thru the slot and on the adjuster and let it soak and retry.

I have also had to pry the drum out as far as things would allow and work at prying it loose from the bottom. Since you know how the things are assembled, you can see if you can get something to pop off and release the shoes. It is always a trial and error thing when they are so old.

You could try some PB blaster sprayed thru the slot too.

Just as a precaution, I always replace the complete adjuster and self adjuster system when working on the brakes. So many times they clean up ok but are soon back to not working.

 

[daveSanborn]

Crap.... I screwed up my earlier response. I somehow read it that the drum was off and the adjuster wasn't working to spread/retract the brake shoes.

Yeah, if the adjuster wheel is loose, the shoes are stuck to "something" on the inside of the drum. It could be a groove on the inner edge of the drum....

Like Pete stated, lubrication usually helps to break free a stuck drum. Try using large screwdrivers between the inner edge of the drum and the backing plate to forcibly "pry" the drum outward... and then blast some kind of lubricant into the narrow opening. WD40, PBblaster, brake cleaner, etc. should work to help free the stuck situation. If you get frustrated and start hitting the edge of the brake drum with a hammer.... be forewarned that it will likely crack... or a chunk/piece of the drum will break off. Be careful.

If all else fails..... remember that each brake shoe is retained to the backing plate with those little spring/cap/pin assemblies. The head of the pin can be seen/accessed on the backside of the backing plate. Use a mini-grinder/cutting wheel to carefully cut the head off of the pin and the drum will DEFINITELY come off....

New pins are part of the normal hardware kit and replaced anyway, just be careful not to cut into the backing plate and enlarge the pin's hole with the cutting wheel.

 

[DeadStang]

Discouraged and didn't get back to it until yesterday.

I used a big screw driver to pry on the drum, since I could pull it out 1/2 inch or so. When I pried the drum, the adjuster gave a nice "snap" and began to work. When it got hung up and quit adjusting again, I did the prying thing (over and over...and over again) and after about 1/2 an hour, I got the stupid (insert favorite swear word--I did) thing off. It seemed to be hanging up on the center of the axle--where I did NOT beat on it with my BFH. Just the rust building up and a tight clearance there, anyway.

So, first drive in 30 years on Saturday... I'll update my "project" thread.