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Reinforced control arms -worth it?

cmayna

cmayna

DILLIGARA?
Donator
I'm working with another local Mustanger regarding upgrading his suspension and started comparing control arms supplied by various suppliers and he seems pretty hooked on getting some reinforced arms. His car is a simple 66 coupe that he is restoring which his dad bought brand new way back then. The car will never see track let alone any real hard street use. Simple 289 with a C4.

How can one supplier charge $529 for upper arms realigned and reinforced, yet another supplier who's into Dolly and Dee Dee BBQ girls charge $200 for realigned arms? $329 difference for reinforcement? How can that be worth it for street application?

Maybe the other site is selling them for racing application. If so, then they are not trying to sell to the street guy.
 
I haven't reinforced or rollerized my A arms and I spend most of the time on the track. I haven't noticed any problems so far, but I'm sure that it would help if they were beefed up. I'm spending all that extra cash on tires instead.

When it's time to replace the arms, I'm sure the better parts will find their way to the car :naug
 
You don't need no freekin reinforcement-realigned arms on a street car.

I got your freeking R&R arms right here :vio


DSCF1779.JPG



DSCF1772.JPG



rolleruca2.JPG



rolleruca1.JPG
 
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We ran our first three years of open track events with bone stock upper and lower arms. You don't need more than that to have fun. If you want to run faster and have the budget, the braced-up stuff is great, it does help as does the roller shaft kit.

My advise to anyone is to run a stock upper/lower arm on anything but a track car. One or two track events per year doesn't count. It doesn't cost a lot to have fun, it does cost a lot to go fast.

Way too much money is spent on parts to make the cars go fast IMO. I've had two driving schools. That made me a much better driver and made for quicker lap times. Much more than any part I could install on the car.

The four things that help the most (say you could take a new 65 off the line) are the roller perches, roller idler arm, larger front sway bar and a performance alighment. Besides racing brakes and tires, the rest is fluff.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
When it's time to replace the arms, I'm sure the better parts will find their way to the car :naug
Click to expand...


If your willing to do some testing on some new stuff, I'll make you a :expl deal.
 
While I agree....the pics above are pure suspension porn :wor
 
"Opentracker" said:
If your willing to do some testing on some new stuff, I'll make you a :expl deal.
Click to expand...

Keep talkin mister...I'm listening!
 
I've got a set of nos arms and perches that came off my car. Still have tags on them, but the bushings are dry rotted.

You can do some experimental stuff to them for me if you like. Give me an idea of the dollars involved and I'll send em to you.

I did find a crack in the right shock tower so I have to take the suspension off, and reinforce the shock towers anyway.
Might as well ditch the repop stuff "while I'm at it".
 
To address the original post first...

Stock a-arms are fine... just add roller perches.

If I were to do my build all over again, I definitely wouldn't bother purchasing the GW tublar a-arms. Too much $$, and not enough pay off for my street (w/occasional track visits) car.

"Opentracker" said:
I'm think'in - one inch perch move on a roller UCA with a double roller perch.

You would be the first.
Click to expand...

Now to my question...

What would be the benefit from moving the perches an inch outward?
 
"Sluggo" said:
I've got a set of nos arms and perches that came off my car. Still have tags on them, but the bushings are dry rotted.

You can do some experimental stuff to them for me if you like. Give me an idea of the dollars involved and I'll send em to you.

I did find a crack in the right shock tower so I have to take the suspension off, and reinforce the shock towers anyway.
Might as well ditch the repop stuff "while I'm at it".
Click to expand...

You try'n to move in on my action bub??
 
"silverblueBP" said:
You try'n to move in on my action bub??
Click to expand...

No, I'm trying to purchase some customification to my nos leftovers.

If I was trying to out flank you I would have done a PM.
 
"Sluggo" said:
No, I'm trying to purchase some customification to my nos leftovers.

If I was trying to out flank you I would have done a PM.
Click to expand...

Doesn't really matter...John dislikes you street pukes, only track cars (aka trailer kings) get the goods :hug2
 
"silverblueBP" said:
Doesn't really matter...John dislikes you street pukes, only track cars (aka trailer kings) get the goods :hug2
Click to expand...
What makes u think I'm a lowly street puke?
 
garner67,
Find my post about doing JeffTepper's car with help of ORP. He talks about the benefit of moving the perch outward by 1".
 
"Sluggo" said:
I've got a set of nos arms and perches that came off my car. Still have tags on them, but the bushings are dry rotted.

You can do some experimental stuff to them for me if you like. Give me an idea of the dollars involved and I'll send em to you.

I did find a crack in the right shock tower so I have to take the suspension off, and reinforce the shock towers anyway.
Might as well ditch the repop stuff "while I'm at it".
Click to expand...


Send them here, I'll do what ever you want to them. I have built a LOT of original arms for people. The very first production 67 Shelby has our stuff on it. Talk about nervous welding. We can put in a roller kit and the 1" perch move. I don't think you'll need the double rollers but a fresh set of regular rollers won't hurt. The 1" perch move does work on street cars too.

NOS arms are great to work with. They have the best stamping. We should put them on the car and use the re-pop stuf for a door stop.

John Dinkel
7 Poppy Rd.
Carmel Valley
Ca. 93924
 
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