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Removing an engine
- Thread starter Kats66Pny
- Start date
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
I've seen these monkeys on TV do it without taking them off, but I always do.
I like to detail the engine when it is out and the brackets too, so it just makes it easy.
Make sure to label every wire and connection. My 67 has a GM one wire alternator on it and my 65 has one from a ranger (Ford) so they are different.
The PO did the 67 and I just saw no reason to change it.
Mel
I like to detail the engine when it is out and the brackets too, so it just makes it easy.
Make sure to label every wire and connection. My 67 has a GM one wire alternator on it and my 65 has one from a ranger (Ford) so they are different.
The PO did the 67 and I just saw no reason to change it.
Mel
It does help to remove the alternator, water pump, pulleys and all that other fun stuff. Just makes life a little less stressful. Oh yeah, don't forget about that sneaky engine ground wire that goes from the back o the block to the fire wall.
Here is some great info from when I did it to Fred.
http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/index.php?topic=6429
Here is some great info from when I did it to Fred.
http://www.stangfix.com/testforum2/index.php?topic=6429
Mach1Rider
Active Member
It mostly depends on your work area and lifting with or without the trans attached.
This pic is the Cougars eng getting ready to be dropped back in without the trans.
This pic is the Cougars eng getting ready to be dropped back in without the trans.
Once the engine out, I plan on detailing it. Clean it up, fresh paint, etc. Make it look a little better. We talked about taking the engine apart to see if we can't figure out some more exact info like if it was bored or not, size of cam, etc since we have no clue about the engine other than its a 302 roller from a 90 GT and if the PO built it to race with, who knows what was done or not done. Hubby mentioned that if it wasn't bored.. possibly doing that. :hs Not like I would complain about that, but that just adds to the rebuild budget and right now I just want to do what needs to be done and later on down the road, do the optional things.
Last night I took pictures of everything from every angle I could get a picture of.
I left the spark plug wires connected until I can figure out a way to properly label them. :confu
Disconnected the fuel lines and covered the ends with plastic and taped it up so no debris can get in them.
Drained the radiator and disconnected that from the engine.
That's about as far as I've gotten so far. I was thinking of just pulling the engine w/o the trans attached.
Oh I like that way.. with a lift plate. Looks easier. LOL
Last night I took pictures of everything from every angle I could get a picture of.
I left the spark plug wires connected until I can figure out a way to properly label them. :confu
Disconnected the fuel lines and covered the ends with plastic and taped it up so no debris can get in them.
Drained the radiator and disconnected that from the engine.
That's about as far as I've gotten so far. I was thinking of just pulling the engine w/o the trans attached.
Oh I like that way.. with a lift plate. Looks easier. LOL
It's juts a matter of loosening the bottom bolt on the alt to get enough play to get the belt off, same for the p/s if you have it. The alt is easy to remove so that should come off, I'd take the bottom alt bracket off too (one bolt.) I've left the water pump on before but the fan & radiator do need to come off. BTW, the chains can be attached to several points: Opposite corners of the cylinder heads (there is a tapped boss at each end of the head, facing the firewall and facing the radiator), opposite corners of the intake manifold (remove the opposite corners that hold the manifold to the heads) and some people use the carb studs too (need to take the carb off, obviously.) If you have p/s, disconnect the pump from the block and gently move it out of the way a bit, attaching it with wire to something (shock cap) so it does not get caught on the engine as it's coming out. Don't forget to remove the ground strap on the passenger side rear head.
"Kats66Pny" said:
No need to drain the trans fluid, just use a plastic baggie & rubber bands to seal off the trans lines from the bottom of the radiator when/if you remove the rad. For the trans, you only need to remove the nuts (6-8?) connecting the torque converter to the engine flexplate, these are accessed thru the inspection cover at the bottom/front of the trans. Slowly spin the the engine over by hand via the crank bolt to access the converter nuts.
Yes. They tend to leak from the speedo cable hole, the rear hole, and just about any place you can imagine."Kats66Pny" said:
Good to know. Right now I'm leaving the rad in. I'm going to have to take it off eventually when it's time to paint the bay. I'm probably going to just replace the rad to one specifically made for 5.0 swap so the in/outs match the engine. Right now they are both on the passenger side which makes the bottom hose block access to properly hook the trans cooler lines.
LOL well I don't have to worry about the speedo cable hole. There's no speedo cable at all hooked up. PO never installed one, which I'm going to have to do if I ever want to know what speed I'm driving at!
"Kats66Pny" said:
Nah. I have removed and installed my engine 2 times fully dressed... mini starter, alternator, water pump, carb and distributor all installed, including the T5 transmission. You just have to make sure you have a wide enough engine leveler to keep the chain from interfering with the distributor and carb. Also, it really helps to have a few extra hands; 1 person on the lift, 1 or 2 people wrestlin the engine up top, & 1 person below to guide the trans.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Take my engine in and out all the time. All I do is remove the radiator.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
"Kats66Pny" said:
Remove the radiator before the engine comes out. Lots more room to work. Also, I would not tear into the engine unless you have a known problem.
Dne'
Well-Known Member
When I bought my stang, it didn't have a motor/tranny, so I can't help you on the removal except to mark wires for identification like someone else said. I waited and waited for someone to help me install my motor, but I wound up doing it alone, and it wasn't bad at all! The loadleveler is a MUST!! I jacked the back of my stang as high as it would go for the install. The headers in the photo were shorty's and I had to remove them as they didn't capish with my flaming river rack n pinion.
So, you're going to leave you tranny in~ wire it up somehow? or remove it too?
So, you're going to leave you tranny in~ wire it up somehow? or remove it too?
"Dne'" said:
I have to find out why the ratchet shifter doesn't work properly. It's the B&M Quicksilver and the instructions say:
To switch from straight gate to ratchet operation, the shifter must be in the Drive position. With the stick in the Drive position the stick will drop down to engage rachet shift mode. The stick will snap down approximately 3/4". The shifter is now in the Drive gear position.
http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/installation_instruction/11.pdf - Page 7 has the Operation Instructions
Mine does not stay in straight gate mode and will not work in it. :shrug I can put it in straight gate mode, but it won't shift automatically. So if the trans doesn't have to be removed for things like that, then I'll just leave it in. The more I remove, the longer it will take to get her back on the road!
Dne'
Well-Known Member
why not just do away with that B&M shifter! get a stock auto shifter and let it shift like an automatic should. I think the BM shifter looks kind of bulky myself. Unless you're going to be racing it!
"Dne'" said:
I kind of like the ratchet shifter, and there may be a few times I take it out on the track when the club goes out there. :thu I've tossed the idea around about going back to the stock shifter which would allow me to put in a console. Right now, with the Quicksilver and where the PO installed it (between the seats), it makes it difficult to put a console of any kind in unless I find an aftermarket one from a different make/model of car. Even then would probably require some tweaking to make it work, which I don't mind. Just makes the interior more 'custom' looking.