• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Removing an engine

As said, pull the plugs, cut off the exhaust, rotate the engine .....is the transmission in park....not that it makes a difference.....but makes ya think.
 
I tried turning the flex plate in park and neutral. It didn't budge.

Will mess with it more tomorrow and I guess cut the exhaust and get the headers out.
 
Make sure to remove the drive shaft. the trans will turn that way. stuff rags in the end so it doesn't leak. Also if you don't release the compression on the engine by removing the plugs or the heads you will not be able to turn much of anything.

Mel
 
Sounds complicated. LOL I posted on my car club website and see if there's anyone who can come over tomorrow and help. I figure after 3 hours of messing with it, I better just have someone show me. :thu
 
I learn better with visuals than I do reading. I'm sure once I actually see what I'm suppose to be messing with, it will make way more sense.
 
There are nine long, skinny snake looking things under the hood. Follow the 8 longer ones and you will see white, maybe shiny things stuck in holes. Pull the snakes off the 8 white things and then get a whatchamacallit and take the white shinny things out of the holes. They turn backwards compared to a digital watch.

Now go turn the flywheel or use a large socket on the front of the engine....the crankshaft bolt.

Sorry, no time for pics as I have a car show to attend........
 
How about turning the motor with the crankshaft bolt? or using the starter motor~ have your husband bump the starter with the key unitl each bolt comes to the access, then remove the starter after all the bolts are out of the flywheel (of course be sure to disconnect the coil wire so it doesn't start). Also you can purchase a cheap starter button from a local auto parts store, just have to tell you how to connect it to the solenoid.
dne'
 
"AzPete" said:
There are nine long, skinny snake looking things under the hood. Follow the 8 longer ones and you will see white, maybe shiny things stuck in holes. Pull the snakes off the 8 white things and then get a whatchamacallit and take the white shinny things out of the holes. They turn backwards compared to a digital watch.

Now go turn the flywheel or use a large socket on the front of the engine....the crankshaft bolt.

Sorry, no time for pics as I have a car show to attend........
:yah :thu
 
It's out!!! Had a couple guys help.

4ac0e007-5dc3-3bad.jpg


4ac0e007-5de5-7ecf.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Original MT valve covers. those are my favs...I have a set on the 67. wouldn't mind a set on the 65. Let me know if you want to get rid of them. I have the standard chrome ones now.

good job. It does get easier!

Mel.
 
I'm tempted to move this thread to the Grumpy Old Farts Lounge, as you're showing nudie pictures of Gertie!
 
enginestamps.jpg


71 stamped on it and what appears to be either GT or 6T stamped a couple times on both sides. What the heck do those mean?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Oh, stop being grumpy mid.

Take a prozac and relax.

Hehehehe

Mel

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 
Couldn't tell you what the 71 and 6T or GT on your heads mean but you can easily find out which block you have, look underneath on the right rear corner just above the oil pan mount:
IMG_2209.jpg


Never really researched head stampings since mine were original to the block.
Jon
 
It looks like those are GT 40 heads. There should be three vertical bars on the front of the head. The "real" casting number is on the underside of the head and you would need to remove the head from the block to see it. You can a date code off the head by pulling a valve cover.
 
"Horseplay" said:
It looks like those are GT 40 heads. There should be three vertical bars on the front of the head. The "real" casting number is on the underside of the head and you would need to remove the head from the block to see it. You can a date code off the head by pulling a valve cover.

According to the folks I bought Gert from, they said it has GT 40 heads.
 
Since you're a visual learner, here's a pic of the bars mentioned above. THis is a GT40P head, GT40s have 3 bars as mentioned. All iron GT40/ GT40Ps have these markings.

275-280211074540.gif
 
Back
Top