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Removing axle

My new 3rd member arrived today, one of the axles came out really easy, the other, not so much. What are some tricks and tips to get it out?
 
As stated......easy job with the proper tool. Some reverse the brake drum and use that but if it is tight, the above mentioned way is best.
 
"AzPete" said:
As stated......easy job with the proper tool. Some reverse the brake drum and use that but if it is tight, the above mentioned way is best.

I had the same problem with axle when disassembling it for the first time. I just took one of my old brake drums, turned around and partially threaded 3 lug nuts and slammed away at it. It took 8-10 blows, but it finally came out. It sure would have been easier with a BF slide hammer though.
 
You can also remove the drum and use a wheel/tire, has more mass than just the drum. Be prepared to flop over backwards when it breaks free.
 
No pics, no video. Sorry, didnt even fall over. Put the DISK on backwards with the open type lugnuts on backwards. On good yank and it came right out. Now, to get the third member loose and out.....
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Autozone loan-a-tool BF Slide Hammer.

Pickup some new axle housing seals while you're down there....

+1 on this idea. I had an axle on sLime that just refused to come out, even with the slide hammer. First, I took it for a 10-minute ride and this somehow generated enough heat that the axle popped right out with the hammer.
 
Back when I was pulling Shag's axles one even with a slide hammer would not budge. Got out my torch and heated up the housing around the bearing. One swift "yank" on the slide hammer and it came right out.
 
Since you have a new third member waiting to get installed, try this: Sit the new third member on the floor of the garage. Lay down alongside it, reach over and try to place it onto your chest without wrenching your back or tearing some forearm muscles.

Now imagine reversing the procedure with your old center section that will be spewing slippery axle grease all over the place.


I recommend that you make good use of a floor jack and be very careful when removing and installing the center section.


My buddy and I just pulled the center section out of his strip car a few weeks ago. It's a Strange 5.13 geared full spool.... that weighed maybe 25 pounds. I couldn't believe how light the unit is. The case is made completely out of aluminum and you can lift the entire center section up with one hand and hold it out in front of you. It looks freaky to do so as center sections are usually around 85-90 lbs and most people aren't going to lift one with one hand and play around with it.
 
UPS had mine listed as 74lbs.

Are the big bearing axles set up differently than the others? I can see how I could replace the axle seals without removing the bearings to install new seals. IIRC, my housing has the "torino" style ends so that I can use the Explorer rear disk kit.
 
Rickster,

You should have two seals per side. The inner seal is "tapped into" the axle housing. The outer seal is a paper gasket used between the axle retaining plate and the axle housings' flange.

Big bearing axles are set up the same way as smaller bearing axles, except the bearings are bigger.
 
"garner67" said:
Rick, I don't recall... which sized ring & pinion gear are you installing with your new center section?

The new rear is a 3.70 trac loc unit. Same gears as before but I didnt have the posi. I have had this noise in the rear since getting the car on the road. I only heard it in the top end of third gear and then in fourth and fifth. The trans was new and under warranty still, they tore it down and determined (at least said) it wasnt a trans issue. I have a new aluminum driveshaft from Shaun at SorT. Its not a vibration, just a noise, wish I could explain it. I could dump the clutch and the noise disappeared. The open rear was rebuilt by a local Mustang shop, but I think he used a used ring and pinion and they may not have been a set, so I could see that it would make noise.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Rickster,

You should have two seals per side. The inner seal is "tapped into" the axle housing. The outer seal is a paper gasket used between the axle retaining plate and the axle housings' flange.

Big bearing axles are set up the same way as smaller bearing axles, except the bearings are bigger.

Dave, here is what mine looks like,

backing plates
ce-9005t.jpg


Spacer for the explorer rear disk kit
ce6012-spacer.jpg


Seal
ce-8013a.jpg


Then a bearing and retainer on the axle.

IIRC, there is a race inside the axle tube that the bearing sits in. I'll snap pictures later tonight when I get home.
 
OK, I found these images, looks similar to my setup other than its missing the spacer between the retainer and seal. I dont see how you could replace that seal without R&R'ing the bearings.

131_0804_04_z+ford_9_inch_axles+bearing_seals.jpg


131_0804_06_z+ford_9_inch_axles+backing_plate.jpg
 
Rick,
When you pull the axle, the bearing comes with it. If you then look into the housing you will see the inner seal. Easiest way to remove such seal assuming the chunk is out of the housing is come in from the opposite end of the housing with an 8' pipe and tap the opposite seal out. Afterwards, switch sides and do it again. The outer paper seal can be installed after the bear is in place. Tight fit but it will slide over the bearing, into place.

When removing the center section or "chunk" why dont you remove the entire housing with chunk installed, place assembly on floor jacks and rotate it with chunk pointing up. Remove all nuts and tap the center section loose. Lift off of housing. This is assuming you have already drained the oil.

When installing, go reverse. Here's some pics of Shag's rear end right before installation. I installed the chunk while the housing was sitting on an extra set of stands point up. When ready to install into the car, I rotated housing forward and rolled the floor stand under the center of the housing, lifted up and rolled it under the car.



 
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