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Shelby drop and lowering spring

Discussion in 'General Mustang Discussion' started by 67stang, Jun 16, 2017.

  1. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Well of course I googled and I understand the concept. So I'm just going to assume my angles are correct.

    If I did get caltracs and set it up so there is very little pre load, will that make it a decent ride?


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  2. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    To measure drive angles, you must add or subtract the component angles. The relationship of the angles between the transmission, driveshaft and the differential, on each side of the driveshaft (drive and driven ends). This example shows 3 degrees of angle up for the transmission, 7 degrees up for the driveshaft and 3 degrees up for the differential. Please note that the transmission and the differential are parallel, the rules of geometry guarantee that the two operating angles will also be equal + or – 1 degree. Even though you know that the operating angles are equal + or – 1 degree, you must still calculate the operating angle (what the U-joint feels) to be sure that they are within specifications. Elbe U.S.A. specifies a maximum of 6 degrees of operating angle, with lower speed applications exceeding this limit. Because all of the angles are up, you need to subtract the smaller component angle from the larger component angle at each joint.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    I can't answer that one!
     
  4. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Just curios if my angles are good, is it odd to still have wheel bounce?




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  5. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    what do you mean by bounce? wheel hop on acceleration or a vibration?
     
  6. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Sorry. Wheel hop, not initially but after 5 feet or so. But I have zero vibration when I drive, and driving it hard.


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  7. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    well, yes that is odd. Do you have a limited slip differential?
     
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  8. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Yes. With a 9 inch rear, tremec 5 speed, 351w. Not sure on the gear ratio.


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    Last edited: Jan 4, 2018
  9. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    hmmm. do you have sub-frame connectors?
     
  10. 67stang

    67stang Member

    The bottom skins on my are are pretty much brand new with dual torque boxes. No sub frame connectors.


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    Last edited: Jan 5, 2018
  11. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    You are likely getting quite a bit of flex in the body without connectors. That could explain the wheel hop as the body relaxes after initial torque is exhausted. Even new, unibody cars like these flex quite a bit. Welded in subframe connectors are usually the first upgrade for performance from a chassis perspective. I would start there. I went with a set of Tin Man connectors and cannot praise their design and construction enough. Heavy walled box tubing that slips inside the existing front subframe for a very solid mount. The whole chassis lifts as one now when jacking. No flex. At all.
     
  12. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    I agree with Terry, I have welded-in (thru the floor even) sub-frame connectors. That might be why I don't get wheel hop with mine
     
  13. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    You can see the sub-frame connectors in this pic, they tie into the frame and go thru the rear floor pans. They make contoured ones but these are supposed to be stronger
    IMG_3521.jpg
     
  14. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Is it mandatory to weld the forward attachment?


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  15. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    Bolt-ins don't do the job any were as well. To be done right and gain the full benefit you need to fully weld them in. That means welding not just at the frame connections but along the bar length too. Doesn't need to be every inch of the length but a few spots along the way welded to the floor panel makes a difference.
     
  16. 67stang

    67stang Member

    10/4!! Sounds like this will be my next task! :)


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    Last edited: Jan 5, 2018
  17. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    mine is welded all along the length, mostly because it is actually protruding into the car but yeah welding is the only way to get the full benefit. It basically becomes a structural part of the chassis. My car didn't have a passenger front torque box so I added that and welded all the seams on the shock towers and frame rails and even added the Boss 302 shock tower bracing. I figured with a a heavy big block I need all the strength i could get. It must work, car feels very solid. Besides drag racing I have done some open track with it and handles surprisingly well for a nose heavy car
     
  18. 67stang

    67stang Member

    Does the tin man deign [​IMG]trap water in the channel as its appears its a three sided tube ( I live in FL lol) . Also I did a quick look and its obviously hard to tell what's good or not any other good suggestions? Are the TCP any good (not the complete cross over). Just the longitudinal sub frames.




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  19. Horseplay

    Horseplay Well-Known Member

    The Tin Man pieces are fully square tube. They fit extremely tight to the floor which, next to rigidity, is the second most important thing you want. They ride higher than a tight 2.5" exhaust pipe! My research indicated that the TCP and most other did not fit as tight. Plus, from an strength standpoint they are not made from the same material "mass" as the ones I went with.
    Any decent set-up (welded) will do the job, I'm sure. I like that when I put a jack under the rearend on one side, the whole car instantly reacts to the first jack pump. Like it is one solid piece. Prior to that was quite a different result.
     
  20. msell66

    msell66 Burning Fossil Fuels Donator

    Just put a 6pt roll cage in the car. Problem solved.

    :D
     
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